THE358BANSH Posted February 24, 2011 Author Report Posted February 24, 2011 Update! The key finally arrived today after a week of shipping when it was only supposed to be a day or two at the max. I wired it in quick so I could get rid of my jumper wires. It's located on the flat part of the front Lakers next to the steering stem. After testing the 'shee out last night I had a chance to play with the tune and get a good idea of where it needed work, which ended up being everywhere unfortunately. Tonight, I ended up getting a chance to do four little trips and get some good data. It's to the point that it runs and rides decent, but it's no where near the level of cleanliness I want. It's definitely rich now, all I gotta do is start pulling everything back and making some POWAH! This was my first time on the quad using the GoPro out of the racecar so I'll apologize for the quiet sound now. It seems to be fine if you crank the volume up a bit. Also, the little camera suck at picking up the headlights. I am kind of disappointed because they are bright as hell when riding but the video makes them look like crap. Anyways, check it out! Evan Quote
rubberneck Posted February 24, 2011 Report Posted February 24, 2011 Looking good man. Whats all that mysterious white shit on the ground. Im so glad i dont have to deal with snow Quote
THE358BANSH Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Posted February 25, 2011 Looking good man. Whats all that mysterious white shit on the ground. Im so glad i dont have to deal with snow I know right? Last week it was 35 degrees all week and it was almost gone, than wham on Sunday we got hammered again. At least the wind isn't blowing now so that I can get out and play. After Wednesdays little test session, something didn't seem right with the tuneup. My VE values for fuel control were abnormally high up to 5000 rpm, and above that I couldn't put enough fuel in the tune up to make it run on the top end. First hand experience with other peoples stuff led me to believe I had a fuel delivery or pressure issue. I pulled the fuel rail off and welded a 1/8"npt bung on it for a pressure test gauge. The R6 fuel pressure regulator is set to maintain 42 psi, and the LTR pump should be able to bypass that value easily. I flipped the key on to see a whopping 24 pounds of fuel pressure. That's enough to idle, run, and drive with light loads, but when the revs grow pressure drops off worse. I went through and completely tested all of the components individually. Everything checked out fine, except for the fuel pump itself. It seems to put out the correct amount of volume, but cant make the pressure. I scrounged around the dyno room and found a little Walbro fuel pump and then rigged it up quick. It makes a rock solid 42 psi everywhere while running. The only thing that sucks is that the tune up to now is null and void because of the fuel pressure issue. No problems though, it shouldn't take more than a night to get back to where I am at now when I find a new pump. Evan Quote
Snopczynski Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Nice job on the injection, it looks very nice. You should put together kits and sell them. Quote
sstaton1983 Posted March 3, 2011 Report Posted March 3, 2011 bump,did you get a pump yet? keep up the awesome work. keep us posted. Quote
wfobasheeboy Posted March 3, 2011 Report Posted March 3, 2011 The358bansh Is there a update? I need my daily fix of EFI! Quote
THE358BANSH Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Posted March 3, 2011 bump,did you get a pump yet? keep up the awesome work. keep us posted. I'm trying like hell to get one. I tried to contact the guy who I got the pump from to give him a chance to do something about it. He didn't respond to my email, PMs, or posts. I wrote off all chances of him responding. I left him negative feedback on LTR450HQ, and then as a last chance found him on facebook and sent him another message. He finally replied and I explained the situation. I thought he was going to tell me to get bent, but he said he would try and come up with another pump. I'm pretty sure he knew it was junk, and that's why he avoided me then started to work with me all of a sudden. In the mean time I have found another pump, and figure by Sunday if this guy doesn't come through I'll purchase it. Anyways, after wiring in the key switch I made a mistake. I had planned on using the ProDesign kill switch to provide a ground circuit to the key when the tether is in. Unfortunately, the ProDesign opens the circuit when the tether is in. On my journey to find a normally closed tether I came across the Gunnar Killer switch. I ran down to Janssen Motorsports and picked up the switch, stainless dual front brake line kit, front sprocket, shock oil, and seals/orings for the rear Elka I needed to revalve/reseal/respring. I get back to the shop and start to install the new tether. Turns out the Gunnar operates the exact same way as the ProDesign, it just uses a small solid state relay inline to reverse the action. After two hours of figuring this out, I said screw it and installed another relay to invert the action again and called it good. I now have the run position, run with lights, and when the tether is pulled it kills the entire quad. Success finally! All while this is going on I have also been trying to find some new exhaust parts. My whole idea with the quad is to make a easy riding, broad powerband, transfer onto the pipe smooth type deal. I came across a set of Paul Turner expansion pipes on E2S, which had been slightly modified into three pieces for a Banshee powered Tecate4 project. The thread was a few months old, but I called the guy anyways. Turns out his name is Adam and is known by FTGRacing on here. I ended up buying the PTs from the thread, and another set of PTs that were a little rusty for $100 bucks shipped. I had a feeling the standard PTs wouldn't fit because of where I mounted the coils, so I was planning on doing some modifying anyways. Everything from Adam showed early in the week so I decided to play with the expansion pipes to get my mind off the fuel pump. I made six pieces into fourteen and started mocking stuff up. The chamber ended up getting rotated slightly forward, down and out a little. I stripped the chrome and blasted them, added a small 4" section in the middle to connect to my Toomey silencers. They don't look that different, but they fit extremely well now. Eventually I would like to get the mid-pipes and silencer off a DMC 916 system to finish it off. After I play with the PT's for a bit, I'll start to look for some cheap nasty ProCircuits next to do my own comparision. In the mean time, I installed the front Streamline dual line kit. It's got the twin lines off the master cylinder that run down to each wheel. I finished off the night by reassembling the stage 3 Elka with a new valving setup and some new orings for the seeping compression adjuster. Last thing to finish off for the rear suspension is to rate and possibly get some new coils for the rear, and I may shorten the swinger up an inch or two. Lates...Evan Quote
Coupelx Posted March 4, 2011 Report Posted March 4, 2011 Neato! As i make out my parts list... what kind of key switch did you end up with? why the ltr pump and not the r6 or r1 pump? the external ones seem cheap and plentiful Quote
THE358BANSH Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Posted March 4, 2011 Neato! As i make out my parts list... what kind of key switch did you end up with? why the ltr pump and not the r6 or r1 pump? the external ones seem cheap and plentiful http://www.demonscycle.com/Electrical-Components/Round-Key-Ignition-Starter-p4576885.html That's the link for the switch. I got it from a cycle shop in Chicago, but you can find them anywhere on the web or some local places. I am still looking for an LTR switch because it is a nicer, more weather resistant piece. Now I can wait to find the ultimate deal instead of spending $75 dollars for a used piece of crap... A few reasons for the pump are listed below... Pre '02 R1, and pre '03 R6 were carb'd so not enough pressure would be made by the pump. '02 and later R1, and '03 and later R6 are injected but use an in tank mounted pump. The LTR pump draws only 2.4 amps @ 42 psi. It flows 50 L/hr which should support 101 horsepower roughly figuring a BSFC of .8 at the highest. It's light, small, and should work great when I find a decent unit. I thought about a Walbro 155 L/hr, but the current draw compared to the Keihin pump is tremendous. I tried to keep the quad on an amp diet to make sure the charging system even had a chance... Evan Quote
THE358BANSH Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Posted March 7, 2011 Well here it is Sunday night. I sent dude a another message about the pump, but haven't got anything back. The afternoon started off well with building the entire right side expansion chamber. It's funny how the first one took two nights, and the second only took 2 hours. Funny how people learn from experience. I also built some pipe hangers for the expansion chambers and burned them on. Only thing left to do for the PTs is to weld an O2 bung in the left side when they come off to paint. Next was to figure out some air filter ducting. I had some K&Ns from my old Lectron setup, but they were 2.5" ID. The inlet side of the throttle bodies is only 1.75" so some sort of an adapter was in order. I turned some rings to fit the ID of the filter and put a nice radius on the lip. A couple of pieces of 304 stainless from the scrap bin worked well to connect the two. Welding stainless is one of the things I enjoy most in life, not really for sure why. The filters ended up sitting above the rear shock, and just in front of the battery box and relays. I think they'll kind of act like a guard from getting too much crap up by the electronics. I'll still end up having to build a second support for them. As for other updates, the rest of the parts for the rear shock should be here on Tuesday. After rating the coils, I ended up only going with a new tender spring. Reservoir mount kit was ordered also, along with a new reservoir since this one has a huge rash down the side of it. Only one other real big change may still be had. I don't want to say what it is until the deal is done because all I'll do is jinx myself, but someone should buy my parts so I can upgrade.... Later, Evan Buy me! Quote
MikeNick Posted March 8, 2011 Report Posted March 8, 2011 Your one bad mofo!! That's pretty sweet man. Quote
THE358BANSH Posted March 8, 2011 Author Report Posted March 8, 2011 Your one bad mofo!! That's pretty sweet man. Thanks. New fuel pump will be here Friday hopefully. I started it here on the old pump to inspect the pulse on the tach wire from the MicroSquirt. It definiately sounds way different with the PTs and air filters/tube. Anyways, the tach wire ended up being a 12vdc sqaure ware signal, with the pulse going high. At 1250 rpm, I was getting a pulse every 25ms roughly so now I need to back figure some numbers to see if I can make stuff work...Evan Quote
gomeznitro Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 Congrats Evan... hope u take it to great lakes when u guys race the impala!!! Quote
wfobasheeboy Posted March 11, 2011 Report Posted March 11, 2011 Evan Nice job on this build keep up the good work & the updates. Also sent you a PM. Quote
camatv Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 i really like those filter 'adapters" i had a HELL of a time welding stainless the other night i dont know what the hell i did wrong! i cannot get the bead that small. unless i dont use filler it looks ok on small test strips i have been prcaticing on but dang the round stuff is driving me nuts.. Quote
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