okbeast Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 it happens.. if it werent for my buddy helping me build mine i would of never even bought my shee.. so you doing this out on your own is really ballsy... i really really really wouldnt suggest doing heat cycles by letting it idle though... I'm not sure who does a fuckin heat cycle by riding it, the very 1st time it's been started. The bike should heat up ok within what 3-5 mins I would say at IDLE. Next time you get it together start it up, blip the throttle as you set the idle and sync and whatever else you want. After a few mins check the cylinders to see if they're hot and shut it off. Some people re-torque all teh bolts, i never have. But I would not start it up and go rippin on it immediately, it's always good to check things out 1st. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbcmudtruck Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 I let my motor warm up good and got the carbs adjusted. One hour later I was dominating my class at the races. Get ahold of Kevin at www.herrjugsracing.com He will have you running in a couple of weeks, at a great price. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 how do you do heat cylces? you RIDE IT!!! holy fuck... are you serious!?!! ride it for a couple mins.. shut it off.. ride for a few minutes shrt it off.. keep doing that for about an hour or so... and you dont want to jet it rich, just mix the oil a little heavier, also make sure u arent using a synthetic oil otherwise it wont break in properly.. once it has ran through the first tank of that gas it should be pretty much fully broken in Whoa, easy killer. You don't have anything to prove on this board. That sucks about the motor, if your clocking 60 and 30 its mostly likely blown. Were you running it really lean? I've idled bikes for 15-20 minutes, and its hot but not overheated or blown. There must have been something else at work. It's possible you have an air leak that leaned it out. I would do a leakdown test before you put the motor together next time. Also post up some pics of what your pistons look like when you pull the head. If for nothing else just so we can see what might have happened. Good luck bro! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilarious Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 I've idled bikes for 15-20 minutes, and its hot but not overheated or blown. There must have been something else at work. It's possible you have an air leak that leaned it out. I would do a leakdown test before you put the motor together next time. Also post up some pics of what your pistons look like when you pull the head. If for nothing else just so we can see what might have happened. Good luck bro! im sorry but IMO that is too long a time to let a banshee sit there and run especially in this heat. these bikes do not have the luxury of having a fan behind the radiator like the latest 4 stroke bikes to move air through the radiator. a heat cycle is just what it is. you start the engine and let it get to operating temp. it doesnt take long, a minute or two then you let it completely cool down. recheck the torque on the head and cylinder base stud nuts and ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 im sorry but IMO that is too long a time to let a banshee sit there and runespecially in this heat. these bikes do not have the luxury of having a fan behind the radiator like the latest 4 stroke bikes to move air through the radiator. Ohh yeah, I definately agree with you. It's not something thats good for the bike at all, but it has happened to me before, and the bike didn't overheat or blow up, that's all I'm saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colby72olds Posted August 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 (edited) I pulled the head last night and the pistons/cylinders looked fine. I wasn't running it lean, so maybe I do have an air leak. My old intakes was causing an air leak, but I bought brand new intakes. Where else could an air leak be coming from? I wish I would have done a leakdown test before I pulled the head, but didn't think about it at all. :: Edited August 7, 2008 by colby72olds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colby72olds Posted August 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 Oh yeah, how do I know if my head is warped? Just by visually looking at it or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 If you have an air leak, then it IS running lean. The air leak can occur anywhere you have a gasket or a seal. You need a leakdown tester along with a leak finding solution (ie soap and water) to find out where it is. If your pistons arent all burnt up, you could have ruined the bore, but I kind of doubt it. Can you still see the cross hatching in the cylinder from the hone? Just a guess, but it sounds to me like head may have had an air leak which screwed your compression test and cause the bike to lean out and overheat. I'm not looking at the bike, so this is just a guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 Oh yeah, how do I know if my head is warped? Just by visually looking at it or what? There is a section on it in Clymers, basically you take a straight edge and run it across the head, making sure there are no gaps between the straight edge and the head. You need to put it back together and do a leakdown test if the bore looks ok, and the pistons arent shot!! That's where your going to find your problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colby72olds Posted August 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 OK, I'll put it back together tonight and do a leakdown test. Now that I think about it... as soon as I cranked it, it was fine idling then it started idling in the higher rpms. Isn't this a sign of an air leak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 OK, I'll put it back together tonight and do a leakdown test. Now that I think about it... as soon as I cranked it, it was fine idling then it started idling in the higher rpms. Isn't this a sign of an air leak? That can be a sign of an air leak yes, or your carbs could just be out of adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travis6767 Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 if you are worried about it overheating when you do the heat cycle next time put a blower or fan in front of the radiator and dont run it so long and you should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted August 8, 2008 Report Share Posted August 8, 2008 (edited) what kind of comp tester are you using? Are you using one that has a adapter piece that fits into the hole or does the main piece screw in? When I used a comp tester with an adapter on it I was pushing 100psi in both cylinders and that was with a cool head with 18cc domes. Once I figured out the adapter piece was junk and I did it the right way I was at 167psi. At the PSI you say your at, can you easily push the kicker with you hand? Almost with no hesitation? Oh yeah and when do my heat cycles, I let the bike warm up for a few minutes, let it cool then its off to the races. Edited August 8, 2008 by fox_forma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted August 8, 2008 Report Share Posted August 8, 2008 what kind of comp tester are you using? Are you using one that has a adapter piece that fits into the hole or does the main piece screw in? When I used a comp tester with an adapter on it I was pushing 100psi in both cylinders and that was with a cool head with 18cc domes. Once I figured out the adapter piece was junk and I did it the right way I was at 167psi. At the PSI you say your at, can you easily push the kicker with you hand? Almost with no hesitation? Oh yeah and when do my heat cycles, I let the bike warm up for a few minutes, let it cool then its off to the races. What brand of Comp Tester do you have and where did you get it... Mine has that f-ing hose that you have to try and sniggle in there and its a PAIN in the ass to get it on tight...?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted August 8, 2008 Report Share Posted August 8, 2008 I've already pulled the head and jugs, the pistons would move a little bit side to side but look fine This doesn't seem right. How much play? If the tolerance is too great it would definitely effect your compression. I don't remember what the clearance should be but I think it is 0.005" or 0.010". Could someone chime in here? I just don't think that you should "see" any movement side to side with the pistons installed. Good luck! SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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