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+4 Timing key


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I think Matt told me the one day he wanted to fuck it up so he can get a 10 mil crank and jump the tops of coal hill with his bike... He said he didn't want to do the "nutcracker" like that guy on the dirtbike though in the coal hill vid from 2 weeks ago :banana:

 

Man, I love that banana guy

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In theory they shouldnt break. All the key is supose to do is locate the flywheel when you install it. The taper of the crank and the taper of the flywheel is what is supose to keep the flywheel from spinning on the crank.

 

That is why when you put on a different flywheel or different crank you should lap the two of them together with valve grinding compound.

 

josh

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For the extra $20 or whatever its going for nowadays I'd rather have the piece of mind with a timing plate.

 

If you think about it, there is less material in the same amount of shear on a degree key. It may not fail right away, but there also a higher likelihood it will fail in fatigue over time. I have seen posts on here and PS where there were shees that ate degree keys. +4 probably has enough material to hold up fairly well with moderate usage, but like I said, for $20 I'd go with the plate, cheap insurance.

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For the extra $20 or whatever its going for nowadays I'd rather have the piece of mind with a timing plate.

 

If you think about it, there is less material in the same amount of shear on a degree key. It may not fail right away, but there also a higher likelihood it will fail in fatigue over time. I have seen posts on here and PS where there were shees that ate degree keys. +4 probably has enough material to hold up fairly well with moderate usage, but like I said, for $20 I'd go with the plate, cheap insurance.

Its been on the bike for 3 years now. Its a hot topic these days, so I'd like to see how long it lasts. By the way it's not a money issue, I can afford the plate if I wanted one.
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I have talked to a manufacturer and a dealer. They freely say the get maybe 2 or 3 calls out of a

hundred sold for shearing breaking... They have found its becuase the installers are not following

the proper torquing procedures... Install it correctly, torque it "using a torque wrench", warm it up,

and retorque... I have watched the videos... The PA coal boys ride their fuckin quads hard... I just

found out too my brother has a +4 key in his machine... 4 years now... No breaky breaky...

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I have talked to a manufacturer and a dealer. They freely say the get maybe 2 or 3 calls out of a

hundred sold for shearing breaking... They have found its becuase the installers are not following

the proper torquing procedures... Install it correctly, torque it "using a torque wrench", warm it up,

and retorque... I have watched the videos... The PA coal boys ride their fuckin quads hard... I just

found out too my brother has a +4 key in his machine... 4 years now... No breaky breaky...

+4 let the good times roll.
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quite possibly the stupidest thing ive ever heard.. if its not a money issue then why not get the plate and the extra insurance that comes with it.. if that fuckin key breaks, itll fuck up your crank, prolly your flywheel, stator... then youll have to tear it all down and rebuild.. now tell me how thats worth it please?

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Whoa, didnt mean to turn this into a repeat of the last thread. All I'm saying is if I was strapped for cash I might take my chances with a timing key. But since I'm not hurtin' (yet anyway) Ill buy the timing plate. I just don't want someone to see these posts in the future through a search or whatever, and go "hey I'll save a few bucks by buying a timing key" then when it shits on them, they're going to go and say "wow, they are a bunch of tards on bansheehq". I just always like to see the repairs/mods section moving in the right direction and giving good advice.

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