hercalmighty Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Did you sand the frame where the coil attaches to the frame? Would that cause a problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Ok what color wires is the tether hooked to? Did you try starting it (or check for spark) with the tether off?? Cool your stator & pickup coil is within spec for the ignition system, that part SHOULD work. Don't sweat the coil I've never been able to test one either, your best bet is to have a shop bench test it or swap in a different one, even if it's from a different quad just to check for spark. But first let us know what color wires that tether is hooked to, since it's a closed circuit for "on" and an open circuit for "off", if you have it going to black/white and black wire it's gonna work opposite if how it should... I'm pretty sure it's going to black/white and black. But I tested it and verified the switch works and has continuity when depressed. I have tried for spark with it on/off??? Until i get home this afternoon I wont know for sure... I am taking the coil to a huge Yamaha dealer to see if they can test it for me at lunch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Did you sand the frame where the coil attaches to the frame? Would that cause a problem? Yes, I cleaned up the metal contacts where the coil meets the frame on the coil and the frame and we have nice clean bare metal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I'm pretty sure it's going to black/white and black. But I tested it and verified the switch works andhas continuity when depressed. I have tried for spark with it on/off??? Until i get home this afternoon I wont know for sure... I am taking the coil to a huge Yamaha dealer to see if they can test it for me at lunch? Ok yes they should be able to hook the coil up to a tester, they oughta have one, and if they aren't greedy bastards that just want you to buy their shit it should tell you for sure if the coil is kosher. It takes like two minutes they just plug it into a machine and it's go or no-go. If you can double check that tether as far as the colors of wires it goes to, if you have continuity with the tether on and it's hooked to the black wire and the black wire with a white stripe...it ain't gonna fire until you pull the tether off. But just checking for spark with it on and off (with a good spark plug obviously) will tell you for sure if it's the problem. Hope it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Ok yes they should be able to hook the coil up to a tester, they oughta have one, and if they aren't greedy bastards that just want you to buy their shit it should tell you for sure if the coil is kosher. It takes like two minutes they just plug it into a machine and it's go or no-go. If you can double check that tether as far as the colors of wires it goes to, if you have continuity with the tether on and it's hooked to the black wire and the black wire with a white stripe...it ain't gonna fire until you pull the tether off. But just checking for spark with it on and off (with a good spark plug obviously) will tell you for sure if it's the problem. Hope it is. I will double check the colors... I have been testing for spark by just holding the spark plug in my hand hoping it knocks the shit out of me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Ok yes they should be able to hook the coil up to a tester, they oughta have one, and if they aren't greedy bastards that just want you to buy their shit it should tell you for sure if the coil is kosher. It takes like two minutes they just plug it into a machine and it's go or no-go. If you can double check that tether as far as the colors of wires it goes to, if you have continuity with the tether on and it's hooked to the black wire and the black wire with a white stripe...it ain't gonna fire until you pull the tether off. But just checking for spark with it on and off (with a good spark plug obviously) will tell you for sure if it's the problem. Hope it is. Ben, Have you ever registered a reading from boot to boot for the secondary resistance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I never stuck meter to coil, had a small local shop with a tester that didn't charge me anything so I never had to. I can test mine if ya want tho and see what it reads, but I've always heard it's not that conclusive. The best way to check spark is to put a (good) spark plug in the boot and hold the tip (metal electrode) to the head or a head bolt and have someone kick it over (hard), you should see a fat bluish spark jump from the center electrode to the tip. Alternatively you can stick a screwdriver in the cap and get shocked (NOT recommended for GM HEI systems, they ain't lyin' about high fucking energy ignition haha). The first method don't hurt though, and on a Banshee ideally you'd have the other cap on the other plug and it would be installed in the head; you can definitely do it alone you just hafta cling on there just right to hold the plug to the head and kick at the same time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I never stuck meter to coil, had a small local shop with a tester that didn't charge me anything so I never had to. I can test mine if ya want tho and see what it reads, but I've always heard it's not that conclusive. The best way to check spark is to put a (good) spark plug in the boot and hold the tip (metal electrode) to the head or a head bolt and have someone kick it over (hard), you should see a fat bluish spark jump from the center electrode to the tip. Alternatively you can stick a screwdriver in the cap and get shocked (NOT recommended for GM HEI systems, they ain't lyin' about high fucking energy ignition haha). The first method don't hurt though, and on a Banshee ideally you'd have the other cap on the other plug and it would be installed in the head; you can definitely do it alone you just hafta cling on there just right to hold the plug to the head and kick at the same time... Can you stick the leads from cap to cap? Yamahore wants to charge me 50 buck to test my coil, and in my face verified the way I was testing it with the multimeter was correct... I get continuity on the primary side test touch my MM leads to where the orange & black wires go, and nothing when I go boot to boot... I was told I should get continuity going boot to boot and 2000-4000 ohms restistance. I pulled the wires and I get continuity through the wires but not through the 90 degree caps... They are pretty gunked up to... Can you just see it you get a reading going boot to boot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Alright I'll snag a meter from a mechanic here at work and check my '96 and my son's '01 and see what they got boot to boot, but you gotta look at those wire colors and check spark the right way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Ok both coils read nothing cap to cap (no continuity or outside the meter's range...the spec 4-7k Ohms seems like a shitload of resistance it may think that's an open circuit above 1000 Ohms I dunno). Both read .3 to .4 ohms between orange and black (within spec for primary coil). I couldn't get any readings between either cap and orange or black. Are you sayin' you don't have continuity from the big leads going from the coil to the 90-degree cap itself? Gunky ain't good when it comes to electrical, you might PM NYUK and see if he's got a working coil cheap, unless you got some donor plug wires from a car layin' around the garage. I still think the tether is part of the problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I would ground the plug, you may not know if you fixed the issue or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 (edited) Ok both coils read nothing cap to cap (no continuity or outside the meter's range...the spec 4-7k Ohms seems like a shitload of resistance it may think that's an open circuit above 1000 Ohms I dunno). Both read .3 to .4 ohms between orange and black (within spec for primary coil). I couldn't get any readings between either cap and orange or black. Are you sayin' you don't have continuity from the big leads going from the coil to the 90-degree cap itself? Gunky ain't good when it comes to electrical, you might PM NYUK and see if he's got a working coil cheap, unless you got some donor plug wires from a car layin' around the garage. I still think the tether is part of the problem... Ben, The kill switch it tapped into the Black and Black with a White stripe wires. With my meter set to tone, I get continuity (or the meter beeps) when the cap is off the kill switch. When I put the kill switch cap back on the beeping stops. I tried for spark with the cap on and off the kill switch. Per the Electrical FAQ kill switch test this passes. I have a by-passed key swtich, where the Red and Black wires go to themselves. On my coil, the primary resistance was .8 ohms with continuity. Just like you I could not get any readings on the secondary. I put some good NGK wires and 5K ohm plug caps on my coil, I cleaned up all the leads and still no spark. I verified througout my entire harness that I have good ground, I touch any black wire in my harness with one lead, and touch a bare spot on the frame, and on nuts and bolts on the frame and get continuity.??? Also, something I was just trying, If I put my meter to measure DC voltage, and I put the leads on the orange and black wires that plug into the coil, I get voltage when I kick the bike over??? I seem to get voltage with or without the kill switch engaged, unless I am just doing something wrong??? I found a shop, a Kawasaki Shop of all places that said they can test my coil for $5 bucks... Dude, I am at a loss... I hope its the coil... Is it possible its something with the old T.O.R.S. BS? I have an extra plug on my harness that goes to nothing, I assumed it was for the TORS... Edited August 6, 2008 by mdhc500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Ok cool you can rule out the tether and the key switch those are right. The TORS shouldn't be an issue, because it isn't supposed to make it not spark at all just limit RPM if it thinks the throttle sticks or the e-brake is on; you remember what color those wires were? $5 to test it, hell yeah I think that's your best bet, the primary reading is almost double spec (.28-.38 Ohms) and you're getting some kind of voltage to orange so it sounds like your stator and CDI are ok (I believe the system is AC so a slight/fluctuating DC voltage reading is ok, I don't think it's an indication that the kill switch is jacked or anything, not that I'm an electrician or anything heh). Good luck let us know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdhc500 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Ok cool you can rule out the tether and the key switch those are right. The TORS shouldn't be an issue, because it isn't supposed to make it not spark at all just limit RPM if it thinks the throttle sticks or the e-brake is on; you remember what color those wires were? $5 to test it, hell yeah I think that's your best bet, the primary reading is almost double spec (.28-.38 Ohms) and you're getting some kind of voltage to orange so it sounds like your stator and CDI are ok (I believe the system is AC so a slight/fluctuating DC voltage reading is ok, I don't think it's an indication that the kill switch is jacked or anything, not that I'm an electrician or anything heh). Good luck let us know what happens. Thanks... I think the colors were black and black with a yellow stripe??? I am going to take like 50 pics so its like having my bike hre... Dude! I hope I get this thing figured out! Thanks for all your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Ok cool black/yellow is TORS don't worry 'bout those wires. You'll get it going I just hope it's a bad coil and an easy fix... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.