zee4speed Posted July 27, 2008 Report Share Posted July 27, 2008 Hey guys. I just purchased a 99 Banshee. I dont know anything about these things. The condition of this thing appears to be a little rough. I want to basically bring it up to maintenance before I start riding it. 1. I know I will need to change the right lower control arm (a-arm). Any suggestions on where to get a good deal on one? 2. Any secrets to changing the lower a-arm? Do I need to compress the strut/spring with anything to change the a-arm? 3. I dont have any history on this thing. Where do I start as far as maintenance goes? I want to give it an oil change before I start it. Any instructions? I did do some research in regards to this. 3a. I read I need to use special oil for the crankcase. Most recommended is 10w30 yamalube4. I must use oil without friction modifiers. I can change by removing the oil drain plug in the bottom of my engine. Run the Banshee for a couple mins, drain it out completely. Fill it up with about 3/4 a quart of fluid and Im done. Is this the only oil I have to change in the entire unit? 3b. I need to place a 32:1 ratio of 2 stroke oil? Will any 2 stroke oil work? And does that mean 1 part 2 stroke oil to 32 parts of 91 octane gas? 3c. I read I need to check my chain. What do I need to look at, or check on/about the chain? 3d. Where is the air filter? Im assuming just make sure its clean, or replace it if its not able to be recleaned(k&n). 3e. I was also read to keep an eye on the plug. Well what does one recommend there? Just your basic make sure the plugs are good? What is the gap on the plugs? What plugs should I use? And where are they found on the unit? 4. I read I should do a compression test on my unit. Well first do I use a standard car compression tester? And also how do I do a compression test? Never did this before. I know some of this stuff is pretty straight forward if I just look at the unit I should be able to find it easily. But sometimes things are easier to just read and know than to go hunting. I appologize for any questions I may have overlooked the answers for. But I really did search for answers to all my questions. Im just getting a final answer to all I guess. I have a fair share of tools. I may not have everything out there, but please share with me info on special tools I may need. I've been researching for the last 2 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted July 27, 2008 Report Share Posted July 27, 2008 Hey guys. I just purchased a 99 Banshee. I dont know anything about these things. The condition of this thing appears to be a little rough. I want to basically bring it up to maintenance before I start riding it. 1. I know I will need to change the right lower control arm (a-arm). Any suggestions on where to get a good deal on one? 2. Any secrets to changing the lower a-arm? Do I need to compress the strut/spring with anything to change the a-arm? 3. I dont have any history on this thing. Where do I start as far as maintenance goes? I want to give it an oil change before I start it. Any instructions? I did do some research in regards to this. 3a. I read I need to use special oil for the crankcase. Most recommended is 10w30 yamalube4. I must use oil without friction modifiers. I can change by removing the oil drain plug in the bottom of my engine. Run the Banshee for a couple mins, drain it out completely. Fill it up with about 3/4 a quart of fluid and Im done. Is this the only oil I have to change in the entire unit? 3b. I need to place a 32:1 ratio of 2 stroke oil? Will any 2 stroke oil work? And does that mean 1 part 2 stroke oil to 32 parts of 91 octane gas? 3c. I read I need to check my chain. What do I need to look at, or check on/about the chain? 3d. Where is the air filter? Im assuming just make sure its clean, or replace it if its not able to be recleaned(k&n). 3e. I was also read to keep an eye on the plug. Well what does one recommend there? Just your basic make sure the plugs are good? What is the gap on the plugs? What plugs should I use? And where are they found on the unit? 4. I read I should do a compression test on my unit. Well first do I use a standard car compression tester? And also how do I do a compression test? Never did this before. I know some of this stuff is pretty straight forward if I just look at the unit I should be able to find it easily. But sometimes things are easier to just read and know than to go hunting. I appologize for any questions I may have overlooked the answers for. But I really did search for answers to all my questions. Im just getting a final answer to all I guess. I have a fair share of tools. I may not have everything out there, but please share with me info on special tools I may need. I've been researching for the last 2 hours. I see no one else is taking a crack at these so I'll give it a shot. 1st, this will be much much easier if you buy a Clymer's manual they will basicvally answer 99% of the questions you posted, definately worth the $20 or whatever they get for them now. 1 You can find used ones on here and flea bay all the time. People part out Bnahsees left and right. SHouldnt run you more then $80 or so, just make sure the ball joint is good because they can't be replaced. In the future and if you have the money you may want to check out +2+1 arms and some new shocks instead of dumping money into the shitty stock front end. 2 No secrets, pul the bolts and go. You will however need a 2 jaw puller to pull the ball joint from the steering spindle. Depending on how old the bike is and how well it was taken care of, sometime the bolts that mount the arm to the frame are seized up in which case a sawzall and grinder come in handy. 3ab Definately do the tranny oil. I use BelRay 2 stroke gear oil on mine, I never mess around with the mototr oils because they can smoke the clutch depending on the ingridients, and I never know if it will do that or not. Aside from that, general stuff like a coolant change, chain lube, grease all the zerks should probably be done too. Yes, 32 to 1 means 31 parts gas to one part oil, that is the most common ratio, its what I run, but some people run richer/leaner. You can use any high perfomance 2 stroke oil, I like the Yamalube R, but everybody has different preferences. You definately don't want to run oil for a 2 stroke chainsaw or outboard motor, make sure it is specifically for high performance applications. Also, I think it would be better to use 94 octane gas, the Super at most gas stations. 3cd Pretty simple to do, check the Clymer if you really need info doing that and the specs. 3e Search plug chop if your not sure if your jetting is right. But if you think its ok your plugs sgould be a dark/brown black color when you pull them out of your bike. Too dark = too rich, Too light = too lean. 4 A standard car compression test kit works fine. Basically pull out the spark plug, thread in your tester, and keep kicking until it stops going up. Presto, you have your compression. SHould be somewhere around 110-130 on a stocker, but I've let mine go down to 100psi before rebuilding. Basically it's a gauge of how the bore is worn. When it's worn out it wont make as much pressure and be difficult to start, less power, etc. Time for the old rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Jackson Posted July 27, 2008 Report Share Posted July 27, 2008 (edited) bellray gearsaver 80w gear oil, 1.7 liters for gear/clutch oil 32:1 ratio = 4 ounces of premix oil per gallon of gas, this is probably the most common ratio chain slack should be about an inch or so up and down movement when u grab it and move it by the swingarm k&n recharge kit comes with cleaner and oil for the k&n in one box, or u can buy the big jugs from rockymountainatv, thats the cheapesst way to go and they last a while br8es or b8es plugs, should be coming out tanish color after a while of riding, never black, not dark when u pull em,if they are black, or "chocolate brown" like people say, its rich, both should look the same, if you really wana get into mods and jetting , thats another thread get a clymer and good luck, the a arm will not take long to chnage, since you are throwing it out, just bash the hell out of the balljoint to get it outa the spindle, sometimes they can be a bitch and stick, but u dont need it so hit it with a big hammer Edited July 27, 2008 by Michael Jackson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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