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Just got a new banshee and it needs to be tuned...BADLY


shogs

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I just got a new banshee that has TONS of extras and is possibly an alba racing banshee. It was sold to me with a single k&n with the conversion for one rather than 2 filters, and no lid for the air box. It runs at about 1/4 throttle before it will bog down and want to die. A shop cleaned the carbs and replaced the needle valves for a measly 400 dollars :down::confused::blink: ..lol. The shop claims a new foam filter and box lid will help, but isnt that just killing some air flow and not really solving the real problem? Re jetting im sure will help but is there any other problems I should expect to see. Any advice would help a ton. Thanks

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I would stay away from that shop? They charged $400 to clean (2) carbs and install needles? I agree, list your mods... Also always be sure to start with good gas, new plugs, do a compression check, try to eliminate some of the obvious things first...

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They claim the compression is fine along with it being synced fine. Good gas and new plugs are in it as well. I'm in a bad position with listing mods though. The guy clocked it at 126 which doesnt mean much but gives you an idea on its potential i guess. The first only claims that its an alba racing banshee and has almost every mod to the engine that could be done done. All I can see is boost bottle, fmf fatty pipes, cool head. That could very possibly be it...BUT it could be a level 3 alba racing banshee. If you want to get a better idea take a look at where i bought it : ). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...664970&rd=1 ... Thanks

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What do you mean it was clocked at 126? You mean the compression is at 126?

If they told you it was clocked at 126MPH and you believed them ....you got took, plain and simple.

 

Unless he has a 20 tooth front sprocket and a 30 tooth in the back along with a 2 mile downhill stretch with the wind at his back!

 

$400? A can of carb cleaner= $4. I bet they used 12 sprays.

 

New needles= $20 + or -

 

Screwdriver= .79, but I bet they already had that back in there shop somewhere.

 

1 hour of labor at most, bro, including downing a couple of beers on you while doing the job.

Edited by Male Supremacy
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Unless he has a 20 tooth front sprocket and a 30 tooth in the back along with a 2 mile downhill stretch with the wind at his back!

 

$400? A can of carb cleaner= $4. I bet they used 12 sprays.

 

New needles= $20 + or -

 

Screwdriver= .79, but I bet they already had that back in there shop somewhere.

 

1 hour of labor at most, bro, including downing a couple of beers on you while doing the job.

 

I dont remember asking how much it would cost to do it myself or how much they fucked me over...because sadly I already know...I asked how to fix my existing problem. If your input doesnt really apply to helping me out with my problem its kind of a waste for the both of us to just bullshit. Thanks

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If your input doesnt really apply to helping me out with my problem its kind of a waste for the both of us to just bullshit. Thanks

 

Then don't waste your time replying with xtra bullshit.

 

I guess I did help to answer your question, though, albeit by sarcasm from me (and other members): find a new "shop".

 

You're welcome :biggrin:

 

If it bogs down after 1/4 throttle it's most likely a fuel delivery problem...like when you run out of gas. The fact that it has a boost bottle tells me a lot though. What size main jets are in it? What needle clip? If you actually want to do it yourself now, that would be my first step.

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K ill work on gettin that....also just wondering why should i take the boost bottle off? If you guys reccomend it i will im just new to banshees and wondering why they seem to be horrible apparently. Thanks.

 

they make it hard to get an accurate tune. and they rip intake boots causing air leak, which leads to burning up the bike, they also rub on your throttle cable, and fuel line and anything else near it.

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your best bet is to find a member that is close to you that knows what they are doing to help you. you paid for a premium membership so i will help u the best i can. first thing, do a compression test. you can barrow one from auto zone 4 free you give them a deposit and they give you the hole thing back when u return it. with that same tool and a air compressor you can do a leek down test and get a idea of what kind of shape the rings are in. that head that is on ur bike is similer to mine if you took my bike down to sea level and did not know any better it would burn up in 1 ride. so you realy need to know what you got. that is the first step in evaluating a used bike. now lets say that the rings are done(nor more life) and you do get it runing right then bam you just ate a ring now you just dbl the cost of fixing it. lets avoid that and take my advice.

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and i wanted to add that i friend of mine works at auto zone and had a car under warantiy so she took it to the dealer because the battery was bad. they said they tested the battery and it was good. so taking theier word for it she left but was still having trouble, she took it back this time she watched them test it and they were trying to test the battery with the care running. now working for auto zone she knows how to test a battery thats what auto zone does and they do it for free. so they say to her its testing out fine, she says what you never turned the car off, you have to turn the car off to check the battery. then they say well it still good untill you put a load on it. she says omg and what do you think happens when you try to start it, you put a load on it.

 

the moral to this story is just because they told you that things checked out dont mean shit! and just becaus they are a shop or dealer dont mean shit!

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