05Special Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 I need a stronger motor to race up here in NE hillclimbing. I was thinking of going with a 10 mil with 72mm cub cylinders.. I have drag ported stock cylinders and was maybe thinkin about going with the stock cylinders just to save on a few bucks. Does anyone here run a drag ported stock cylinder with a 10 mil crank? I like the idea of the factory look also. Any info on any 10 mil setup would be great. price, reliability, power, ect ect... thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 a 10 mil will cost you more then building a 4mil but the power is awsome. For realiability, as long as it is build with proper tolerances then it will last just as long as any other motor. If you have the funds to do it right then I would say go for it. Just keep in mind your going to nee more then just the motor. You will need a swinger, clutch, tires, suspension, ect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted July 14, 2008 Report Share Posted July 14, 2008 Get a 4 or 7 mil cheetah with a power valve. But if your cylinders have a strong drag port on the, you're used to having no bottom or mid range power, all up top... It'll be cheaper and easier to bolt a 10 mil cub on....and I'd get a 68mm bore before I bought a 72 super cub. Out of the box, the 68mm runs better. With a TON of porting, the super cub will beat it out on a dyno by 3 to 5 HP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 i agree with daj as far as the 10mm cub in a 68mm bore. i run one for hillclimbing, and the pull off the line is hard. with the right tire/swinger/gearing combo you will be amazed at how fast you can be.. problem is that you need to know how to ride the shit to be fast.. i run a +6 swingarm, cut tires and usually about 16/40 gearing.. and my shit hauls the fuckin mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bzy2p Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 the set ups are completely different for drag racing then hill climbing,tourque and rpm curves which stems from porting and set up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 I need a stronger motor to race up here in NE hillclimbing. Where in Nebraska are you finding these monster hills? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 For hillclimbs go with the powervalve cheetah if you can afford it. If you want to do it the quick and easy way go with a 10mil cub 68mm bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 Where in Nebraska are you finding these monster hills? new england dogg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawiking Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 damn tyler.. u run a +6 swing ?? how do u keep it down... my buddies 10m with a +6 wouldnt stay on the ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 damn tyler.. u run a +6 swing ??how do u keep it down... my buddies 10m with a +6 wouldnt stay on the ground watch the video RIPPEN made and youll see!! you gotta know what youre doing. i could easily flip that sumbitch over on me if i wasnt careful. its all about body weight and droppin the clutch at the right time. it makes for some killer launches. plus, we put just a little bit of loose dirt under the tires about a foot out at the climbs. that gets the tires spinning then its zoom zoom time.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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