Speed shifting

[Washburn]

How many of you guys just shift when your dead smack in the rpms where you need to shift and dont use the clutch. It takes practice to know when without bogging down shifting and fouling plugs. Alot of times in a race my arm gets tired so I just shift.

 

BTW- Meat I will probably be going to an AWRCS Race at the end of the season. Do you go to any of them?

[awaitedshee]

eh i heard from ppl on here thats not a very good idea without a over ride you could bend the shift fork

[snowmanzz13]

thats basically how i shift all over, especially on a straight, you can feel when it will shift like that or not and when you do it enough you learn to use the clutch when really needed, i aint no expert but havent had any trans issues in over 2 years and thats how i ride

[peterlocal22]

thats basically how i shift all over, especially on a straight, you can feel when it will shift like that or not and when you do it enough you learn to use the clutch when really needed, i aint no expert but havent had any trans issues in over 2 years and thats how i ride

 

I agree w/ snowmanzz13, i do the same thing and im pretty sure it will cause no harm as long as you shift it at the right time.

peter

[Meat]

BTW- Meat I will probably be going to an AWRCS Race at the end of the season. Do you go to any of them?

 

Thats western Pa and Ohio seriers correct ? Im about a 4 hour drive to Pittsburg. Im in the AMA District 6 area so thats eastern PA, NJ and MD too I think.

 

I'd be afraid of damaging something with speed shiftin'. Iv never ever done it. I'v been in a hare scramble where my clutch arm was getting REALLY tired, but I kept using the clutch, and thats about the only time where I'v even thought about shifting without the clutch. If you have enough strengh in your forearm to still pull in the clutch, I'd keep using the clutch. There's a ton of different ways to make clutchin easier.

[bansheesickness]

speed shifting is all i do. i forget somtimes there is a clutch, its so easy to do why use the clutch at all? ecept to take off 1st

[peterlocal22]

Thats western Pa and Ohio seriers correct ? Im about a 4 hour drive to Pittsburg. Im in the AMA District 6 area so thats eastern PA, NJ and MD too I think.

 

I'd be afraid of damaging something with speed shiftin'. Iv never ever done it. I'v been in a hare scramble where my clutch arm was getting REALLY tired, but I kept using the clutch, and thats about the only time where I'v even thought about shifting without the clutch. If you have enough strengh in your forearm to still pull in the clutch, I'd keep using the clutch. There's a ton of different ways to make clutchin easier.

 

ive always speed shift and have never had a problem. I even do it in my jeep wrangler from time to time.

[Meat]

The definition of a clutch is "A mechanism for transmitting rotation, which can be engaged and disengaged."

 

You have two rows of gears spinning in your crankcase. When you pull in the clutch you are momentarily removing the engine's power to the transmission allowing the dogs on the gears to mesh up the way they were designed. When you don't use the clutch, the gears change but its much harder on the gear dogs. If you would happen to shift under full power you could break off a dog or two. And if you don't break one clean off, your prolly wearing away the corners off of the dogs, which can lead to a slipping tranny gear in the future. There are NO syncro's on Banshee gears, without using the clutch, the spinning gear will mesh at full spinning speed with the new gear you just selected. BUT... Banshee's are known to have strong, reliable trannies.

 

Can someone give me situation, besides drag racing, where speed shifting is clearly better than using a clutch.

[bansheesickness]

The definition of a clutch is "A mechanism for transmitting rotation, which can be engaged and disengaged."

 

You have two rows of gears spinning in your crankcase. When you pull in the clutch you are momentarily removing the engine's power to the transmission allowing the dogs on the gears to mesh up the way they were designed. When you don't use the clutch, the gears change but its much harder on the gear dogs. If you would happen to shift under full power you could break off a dog or two. And if you don't break one clean off, your prolly wearing away the corners off of the dogs, which can lead to a slipping tranny gear in the future. There are NO syncro's on Banshee gears, without using the clutch, the spinning gear will mesh at full spinning speed with the new gear you just selected. BUT... Banshee's are known to have strong, reliable trannies.

 

Can someone give me situation, besides drag racing, where speed shifting is clearly better than using a clutch.

 

 

i use speed shifting allot on hill climbs in coos bay oregon. some hills you start in first and if you stay in first you are going way to slow and my not make it up, and somtimes the second you lose when pulling in the clutch you may lose momentum. ive done it a couple of and had to back down the hill. its not allway neccesary to shift with out a cultch but ive found it helfull quite a few times. like going around trees or objects then shifting right after. its propably bad to but like you said the trannys are pretty tough. i am constaly slaming it down a gear into a corner or vis versa out of a corner up shiftiing quick and just getting on the trottle. i dont leasurely ride very much so my shee take some abuse and so far it has put up with me. one time i was watching someone do a hill climb in the sand and when he up shifted while going up the hill, he took a lil longer to shift and it threw him in a wheele and back on himself rather then keeping his momentum up this hill. so its not for everyone but i like it

[Washburn]

rite its eayser in the clutch around tight corners sometimes going up hills I use the clutch though to rev and pop it out. It all depends on where Im at. My forerms are strong enough to where I could pull the clutch every time but I personaly dont need it and alot of AWRCS riders agree with me and they do it themselves. Thats when I started doing it is when Cody Buchaanan and a few other guys told me it wont hurt anything in the upper rpms low rpms you could foul plugs espically on 2 smokes.

 

Yes AWRCS is Ohio and PA. The last race was in Clintonville and thats a stones throw from where Im at Im just not ready so Im gonna do the Boyers race for sure.

[peterlocal22]

The definition of a clutch is "A mechanism for transmitting rotation, which can be engaged and disengaged."

 

You have two rows of gears spinning in your crankcase. When you pull in the clutch you are momentarily removing the engine's power to the transmission allowing the dogs on the gears to mesh up the way they were designed. When you don't use the clutch, the gears change but its much harder on the gear dogs. If you would happen to shift under full power you could break off a dog or two. And if you don't break one clean off, your prolly wearing away the corners off of the dogs, which can lead to a slipping tranny gear in the future. There are NO syncro's on Banshee gears, without using the clutch, the spinning gear will mesh at full spinning speed with the new gear you just selected. BUT... Banshee's are known to have strong, reliable trannies.

 

Can someone give me situation, besides drag racing, where speed shifting is clearly better than using a clutch.

 

 

trails

[2/2 many banshees]

I'v been riding 2 strokes and 4 srtokes my whole life and speed shifting never had a problem I even do it on my rappor 660 2001

[csrmel]

what kind of heavy ass duty clutches you sall using? ive never expierenced arm pump or cluth hand fatigue, and i ride fairly hard with 6 trinity heavy duty drag springs.

 

th key is to adjust the clutch adjustment screw under the clutch cover so it aligns with the marks on the top of the trans., also take the clutch cable off the bike, literally off the bike.

put one end of the cable in a bench mounted vise and start dripping atf down the cable while working it up and down through th cable sheath. after a whie some brown goo will come out, thats just olf grease and dirt. keep lubing the cable until only bright red atf comes out the bottom, all the time working the cabler in and out of thre sheath. by this time you notice that clutfh cablr resistance had reduced 50%-150%.

 

 

next take the clutch lever off and clean and relube it with antiseize. make sire to use a hand vise or better yet a bench top mounted table vise bolted to the top of a table. and crimp the clutch perch slowly tighter and tighter untill it almost has resistance. meaning that th clutch lever no longer has up and down free play. even brand new factory clutch levers and perches have too much slop in this area. so the clutch lever has minimal up and down slack once you do it rite. dont forget to route the clutch cvable so that it has minimal bends and kinks. if you have to make a brnd, make it as wide as possible.

 

to date i have NEVER found a smoother cable and clutch pull system than the oem setup as long as its oiled properly. aslthough i have not tried a hydraulic clutch. i have tried those easy pull leveres and perches, terry cablesd, etc. its all bs.

 

i run 6 trininty drag springs and my clutch is only slightly stiffer than stock. maybe 10%, 15% stiffer. thats not bad. other guys who dont maintain ther cable , perch, adjustments, etc and have similar setups to mine have 3-4 times the clutch pull force required. its all in the maintenance.

[bansheesickness]

what kind of heavy ass duty clutches you sall using? ive never expierenced arm pump or cluth hand fatigue, and i ride fairly hard with 6 trinity heavy duty drag springs.

 

th key is to adjust the clutch adjustment screw under the clutch cover so it aligns with the marks on the top of the trans., also take the clutch cable off the bike, literally off the bike.

put one end of the cable in a bench mounted vise and start dripping atf down the cable while working it up and down through th cable sheath. after a whie some brown goo will come out, thats just olf grease and dirt. keep lubing the cable until only bright red atf comes out the bottom, all the time working the cabler in and out of thre sheath. by this time you notice that clutfh cablr resistance had reduced 50%-150%.

 

 

next take the clutch lever off and clean and relube it with antiseize. make sire to use a hand vise or better yet a bench top mounted table vise bolted to the top of a table. and crimp the clutch perch slowly tighter and tighter untill it almost has resistance. meaning that th clutch lever no longer has up and down free play. even brand new factory clutch levers and perches have too much slop in this area. so the clutch lever has minimal up and down slack once you do it rite. dont forget to route the clutch cvable so that it has minimal bends and kinks. if you have to make a brnd, make it as wide as possible.

 

to date i have NEVER found a smoother cable and clutch pull system than the oem setup as long as its oiled properly. aslthough i have not tried a hydraulic clutch. i have tried those easy pull leveres and perches, terry cablesd, etc. its all bs.

 

i run 6 trininty drag springs and my clutch is only slightly stiffer than stock. maybe 10%, 15% stiffer. thats not bad. other guys who dont maintain ther cable , perch, adjustments, etc and have similar setups to mine have 3-4 times the clutch pull force required. its all in the maintenance.

 

 

 

where exactly is the clutch adjusment screw you are talking about? on the handel bar clutch perch? i know how to adjust it there but i thought it was the only place you can adjust it.

[csrmel]

where exactly is the clutch adjusment screw you are talking about? on the handel bar clutch perch? i know how to adjust it there but i thought it was the only place you can adjust it.

 

 

you have to taake the clutch cover off and it is right physically in the middle of the clutch plates. should be a phillips if i remember correctly. this is an important step, most people forget or dont even know about.