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WHITE SMOKE


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I was out on my third ride since i rebuilt my engine. It has ran strong and fast and i have been able to beat all my friends. but yesterday i had to get towed home, good thing i got good friends. I was going and shfted down to third, no funny sound and my friend came up beside me and i shut it down but i did see heavy, thick white smoke coming out of the pipes. I took my plugs out and they were soaked with coolant. I am thinking the o-rings in my coolhead melted, when it happened i was 150 degrees celcius.

Are there anymore ideas out there? Has this happened to anyone before and what am i dealing with?

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Damn man, that's real hot. I just converted it over to Fahrenheit, and that's 302 degrees. You will be lucky if you don't end up having to rebuild the top end. I'd pull the clutch cover, and make sure the water pump impeller, water pump gear, bearing, and seal is okay. Now would be a good time to put in a billet impeller. The water pump may have failed causing it to get that hot, and then mess up the o-rings. The head may be warped also. Good luck.

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Damn man, that's real hot. I just converted it over to Fahrenheit, and that's 302 degrees. You will be lucky if you don't end up having to rebuild the top end. I'd pull the clutch cover, and make sure the water pump impeller, water pump gear, bearing, and seal is okay. Now would be a good time to put in a billet impeller. The water pump may have failed causing it to get that hot, and then mess up the o-rings. The head may be warped also. Good luck.

I do have a aluminum impellar, oversized rad, cool head... and the list goes on. What should a banshee run at?

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180 or so farenheight.

 

I would check the water pump drive gear...even though the impeller is aluminum, the drive gear is still plastic. If that's toast...you're toast.

 

That would make the engine overheat, lose an oring, etc.

I would have the deck surface of the cylinders and the head checked for flatness at that temp....Be a shame to put it all back together and have it leak again because of warpage.

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180 or so farenheight.

 

I would check the water pump drive gear...even though the impeller is aluminum, the drive gear is still plastic. If that's toast...you're toast.

 

That would make the engine overheat, lose an oring, etc.

I would have the deck surface of the cylinders and the head checked for flatness at that temp....Be a shame to put it all back together and have it leak again because of warpage.

That is on the to do list tonight. But how do I get it to run at an optimal temp?

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With a billet impeller and over sized radiator...I'm not sure what else you can do or should need to do if everything else is in good working order.

 

heres something else, make sure the jetting is right. im surprised it made it htat hot without burning a piston.

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Damn man, that's real hot. I just converted it over to Fahrenheit, and that's 302 degrees. You will be lucky if you don't end up having to rebuild the top end. I'd pull the clutch cover, and make sure the water pump impeller, water pump gear, bearing, and seal is okay. Now would be a good time to put in a billet impeller. The water pump may have failed causing it to get that hot, and then mess up the o-rings. The head may be warped also. Good luck.

I checked at lunch and it was 150 degrees F, so I should be ok for temp. I'm going to work on it tonight, and hopefully it isn't too bad?

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heres something else, make sure the jetting is right. im surprised it made it htat hot without burning a piston.

it was 150F. the jetting seems correct. i know i didn't overheat it. i won't know until tonight, the wife is gracious enough to let me work on it tonight. it is surprising how fast it can go from being the fastest to being towed?

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What kindo of Oring kit did you put in? I only run the Prodesign oring kits because they have special brownish color o rings for the domes. Maybe is was just a bad o ring. Look to see if any of them are pinched when you take it appart. Use a little vasoline on them when you put it back to gether. Helps keep the orings in place.

 

josh

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you said it was your 3rd ride since rebuilding.did you do the proper break in for the engine? not sure if that would cause coolant in the cylinders but i know it wouldnt be good on the top end...

I did do the proper break in, I spent a LOT of money on my banshee this last winter. I took all precautions so something like this wouldn't happen. what do you do?

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What kindo of Oring kit did you put in? I only run the Prodesign oring kits because they have special brownish color o rings for the domes. Maybe is was just a bad o ring. Look to see if any of them are pinched when you take it appart. Use a little vasoline on them when you put it back to gether. Helps keep the orings in place.

 

josh

That is what i am hoping for, it is really the only thing that makes sense with the coolant, not over heating, still has compression, still turns over and it is cheap.

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havent rebuilt my top end yet but they recommend running the engine for 20 or so minutes untill it gets hot then shut it off and let it cool completly. repeat a few times. i'm not saying ur method is bad (i dont know it) but that is what i hear. but check those o rings and hopfully nothing happend to the head.

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