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4mm questions?


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I think i have a bad crank seal so while im in there i was thinking about going with a 4mm

My question is do you have to run different pistons or no?

i do have a noss cool head, i was told that you do not have to run the blaster pistons.

is there goin to be a big difference in power?

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I think i have a bad crank seal so while im in there i was thinking about going with a 4mm

My question is do you have to run different pistons or no?

i do have a noss cool head, i was told that you do not have to run the blaster pistons.

is there goin to be a big difference in power?

This is from my understanding im sure some one will correct me if im wrong. But you can use the 4mill with 110 rods and use stock uncut pistons with the 115 you have to use banshee pistons. And im sure youll hear that it a "dependes" on the power difference. but you will be incressing the cc's of the beast

Ive also seen on here its a good idea for a grate power incress to have the jugs ported for the 4 mill crank and that its next to impossable to use a stock crank ported jugs inless it a very mild port.

The last bit of info ive got is useing the spacer plate or not Though checking out different post on here and talking to different builders if you get the domes milled 2 mill for the stroker crank you do not need to use the stroker plate and you can use stock port. with the 110 rods. I am not sure on the 115 rods though. Well hope this helps.

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you have to use different pistons with the long rod 4mm, either blaster or banshee specific long rod pistons. are your cylinders already ported for stock stroke? if they are either stay with the stock stroke or sell them and get another set of cylinders to port for the 4mm crank. the long rod crank seems to be the preferred one. if you stay with stock stroke and your crank has a lot of hours consider a new or newer crank and have it trued and welded.

Edited by 400rednEX
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My cylinders have a mx port from passion racing, my crank was just trued and welded..

I do have a set of virgin cylinders that i can use.

Im just wondering about the pistons, if its A MUST to run different pistons

 

There are several different options. The long rod crank, the 4mm longer stroke with 110 rods, and the long rod 4mm stroke. Depending on what you want, each requires a different set up. Spacer plate, 795 series pistons, cut domes or rechambered stock head. Port timings have to match piston position, that's why it was suggested to get virgin cylinders if yours are already ported for a stock crank.

 

I think the 795 series pistons are a better option today then the Blaster pistons of years back. I think you have to start with a larger bore to fit a stock Blaster piston.

 

SP

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you need 795 pistons,and you can also use your mx ported jugs ..but you would need to run a spacer plate for correct port timings.. you coulld do this while you have the other jugs you got ported for a 4mil if your not comfortable running the plate. best thing to do is talk to your biulder. you will wanna get customs domes and shit too for right compression for how you want motor to run.

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795 series pistons are required for a LONG ROD crank. Regardless if it is stock stroke or 4 mill stroker.

 

Cut Stoker domes, or spacer plate are required for the 4 mill stroker crank.

 

Stock crank = Regular pistons

Long Rod stock stroke crank = 795 series pistons

 

Stock (110) Rod 4 mill stroker = Regular Pistons with ethire Cut domes or Spacer Plate

Long (115) Rod 4 mill stoker = 795 Series Pistons with ethire Cut Domes or Spacer Plate.

 

You use to have to run blaster pistons with a long rod crank. Since then wiseco has come out with 795 series banshee pistons. That way you dont have to punch out your banshee cylinders to 66mm (stock blaster bore)

 

I would go with the cut domes and no spacer plate option. It is the better way to go.

 

I would do the stroker crank it is a nice up grade.

josh

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so the 115 long rod makes more power. But how much more power? Which one is more reliable & how much does it raise compression?

 

It doesnt make any more power. It is a modd that helps improve the reliability of the banshee. The con rod is 5mm longer than stock. The piston has the wrist pin moved up 5mm closer to the head or top of the piston. This reduces the angle of the conecting rod wich puts less stress on the piston skirts.

 

A long rod is the way to go. Being able to run stock rod pistons realy isnt a good reason to run a stock rod length 4mill crank.

 

josh

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I would go with the cut domes and no spacer plate option. It is the better way to go.

 

I would do the stroker crank it is a nice up grade.

josh

i would not do this unless cyls are ported for a 4mil otherwise you will have a motor that runs like shit.. if cyls are ported but not for 4mil you have to run a plate for it to run right....

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thanks guys all this info is great and when i get them ported, it will be a fresh set of jugs im not going to report my mx cylinders, these fuckers run to dam good.. i rather spend the money and have another set ported and sell these so some1 else can enjoy them..

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thanks guys all this info is great and when i get them ported, it will be a fresh set of jugs im not going to report my mx cylinders, these fuckers run to dam good.. i rather spend the money and have another set ported and sell these so some1 else can enjoy them..

 

If you talk to passion he might be able to report them for the crank since it was a mx port. He probably wouldnt be able to do a 4 mill mx port but maybe a dune 4 mill. That is maybe what you should shoot for. The 4 mill will help out a lot in the mid range so you can give some up to gain top end, but still have more midrange than what you started with.

 

josh

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