Jump to content

bottom end lag


Recommended Posts

If you are nervous about the smaller mains, you can put the 310's in and do a plug chop to ensure you are headed in the right direction. There is a tech doc you can get to through the BHQ home page on performing a plug chop if you have any questions. If you are riding and give it 3/4 to full throttle and it bogs and then catches up that means your mains are rich. 0 to 1/4 throttle is where your pilots and screws have control. Throttle position refers to the position of your thumb throttle (how far the slides are opened), regardless of the engine RPM. Thought I would throw that out there just to make sure we are on the same page because it makes a huge difference. Good luck tomorrow.

-Ryan

 

Hey thanks again, and here is a afterthought- after the wife got home, I went ahead and dropped in the 27.5 and 310main. It was then that I realized I was missing one of the small brass tubes on my far side carb(the richest one) so I found a partz carb, and got another tube. I gotta go to work, but I'll be back with some kind of results. -Later

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are nervous about the smaller mains, you can put the 310's in and do a plug chop to ensure you are headed in the right direction. There is a tech doc you can get to through the BHQ home page on performing a plug chop if you have any questions. If you are riding and give it 3/4 to full throttle and it bogs and then catches up that means your mains are rich. 0 to 1/4 throttle is where your pilots and screws have control. Throttle position refers to the position of your thumb throttle (how far the slides are opened), regardless of the engine RPM. Thought I would throw that out there just to make sure we are on the same page because it makes a huge difference. Good luck tomorrow.

-Ryan

Well I stuffed the 27.5's and 290mains in. 3rd spot on the needle. 1.5 turns then 2 . shee ran even worse, and wouldn't idle. so Iswapped the pilots back to 25's. Ran allot better on 1.5 turns, still a bog right b4 the band, but I'll try moving the needle. Right now the oil coming from my silencer has got me more worried. Thanks for the tips guys!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is defenitely a learning curve when it comes to tuning and riding a banshee. It requires a totally different approach, especially if you are going to ride the woods or trails with it. There is a lot of clutch slip involved to make up for the lack of bottom end. But after you get it down there's nothing else like it.

Sounds like you're headed in the right direction.

-Ryan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you need an air filter my friend my bike acted the same way when i first put my toomeys on it with stock filter no bottom end but ran good on top,until i put a k&n airlid on it and took out the filter inside then it ran amazing on bottom and even better on top. id try a filter and go from there even a twin air or equivalent will make a noticeable difference

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you need an air filter my friend my bike acted the same way when i first put my toomeys on it with stock filter no bottom end but ran good on top,until i put a k&n airlid on it and took out the filter inside then it ran amazing on bottom and even better on top. id try a filter and go from there even a twin air or equivalent will make a noticeable difference

 

\

did u just say you run your banshee with no air filter, just a k&n powerlid.....?

 

youd be surprised how much better the bottom end is on a correctly jetted banshee compared to a rich one, too many people follow the instructions that come with their pipes or that the idiot ont he phone from the pipe company tells them and end up pig rich wondering why theres no lowend and then convince themselves thats how a banshee is supposed to be, its no raptor 700 torquemonster, but it shouldnt bog at all, banshees are snappy as hell

Edited by Michael Jackson
Link to comment
Share on other sites

\

did u just say you run your banshee with no air filter, just a k&n powerlid.....?

 

youd be surprised how much better the bottom end is on a correctly jetted banshee compared to a rich one, too many people follow the instructions that come with their pipes or that the idiot ont he phone from the pipe company tells them and end up pig rich wondering why theres no lowend and then convince themselves thats how a banshee is supposed to be, its no raptor 700 torquemonster, but it shouldnt bog at all, banshees are snappy as hell

 

yeah runs dam good too. ran it for about a year and a half that way and recently tore it apart pistons and rings still looked beautiful i just made sure my airbox was spotless before doing it.

Edited by siksykorx7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah runs dam good too. ran it for about a year and a half that way and recently tore it apart pistons and rings still looked beautiful i just made sure my airbox was spotless before doing it.

 

Well guyz, thanks for all the good advice, looks like I'll be saving for a filter now. Til then I'll be slippin the clutch through the corners and enjoying the strataways. Probly here more from you all throughout this awsome site! Later and thanks again!!

-NHR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tryin to tune the beast is leaving me befuddled. I got the '98 bansh with staggered carbs, 300 close side, 280 far side. After burnin it up and puttin a set of 65mm jugs, I got close runnin 320 mains on both sides. Test runs in 5th gear wide open show a nice light brown electro, but its the lag on the bottom end that I cant shake.

I'm running the stock mikunies,320main and 25 pilot with the air screw 2 turns out, needle is on the top clip, tors removed. stock filter with no lid, boost bottle, stock timing, fmf fatty pipes, not sure wich silencer-The previuosly staggered far side seems to run richer?

I made sure both my slides were in synch by moving the cable screws on the top of the carbs until the slides each moved at the same time. I'm at about 900 ft above sealevel and the temp range ismid 70's-mid80's. Shee idles good and starts first kick, I'm thinkin of droppin my pilots to a 22.5 any sugesstions?

mine was doin the same .. and i also tried 22.5 pilote and that was 20$ down the drain... turned out my slides were on the wrong side and my carb bowls were mixed up, one of them has a hole at the bottom for the choke feed. changed it up now it runs perfect

Wtf are staggered carbs :blink:

 

As for the above advice, I'd only take the needle advice. You have it on the fattest setting. You should be fine with a 25 pilot and those mods and maybe a 300 main, then work down from there.

isnt the top clip the leanest point of the needle?? the more is dropes down leaner it gets???

 

That may be on the raptor, but in my case it was a 300 main on the near carb, and 280 main on the far one. I guess allot of snowmobile guyz jet like that? Least thats what they told me at the shop. From what I've learned it aint no way to run banshee's!

ya alot of sledders do this .. mainly because one side runs hotter then other ... dont remember if its tha mag side or pto side.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i read many post but i hardley reply. but time and time agen i see advice given on jetting. the one thing over looked so many times is the needle. not were the the clip is but the hole thing. when i bought my t5's new they came with new ones.why do you think that is. its the shape of it. moving the clip changes the timeing of it. if i were you i would get a jet kit from toomey and and do what the say for there pipes. that i think would be the best starting point.

Edited by mercury65
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i read many post but i hardley reply. but time and time agen i see advice given on jetting. the one thing over looked so many times is the needle. not were the the clip is but the hole thing. when i bought my t5's new they came with new ones.why do you think that is. its the shape of it. moving the clip changes the timeing of it. if i were you i would get a jet kit from toomey and and do what the say for there pipes. that i think would be the best starting point.
and get rid of the stock air cleaner it will never run right with that on there. Edited by mercury65
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i read many post but i hardley reply. but time and time agen i see advice given on jetting. the one thing over looked so many times is the needle. not were the the clip is but the hole thing. when i bought my t5's new they came with new ones.why do you think that is. its the shape of it. moving the clip changes the timeing of it. if i were you i would get a jet kit from toomey and and do what the say for there pipes. that i think would be the best starting point.

 

Thats kinda wut 'm lean'n towards. Mayonnabe a set of keihin pj's 2. Definatly a new filter, but I'm gonna try to dial these carbs in, if only for a backup. Great advice, guyz and thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The stock air cleaner blows, I'll testify to that one.

 

I had a low end bogging also. I put a replacement uni-filter on temporarily. I have K&N pods but I'm waiting to do a few mods at once, and my stock one was fucked so I bought a uni-filter to ride with in the mean time.

 

Cleaned up the throttling a lot. No more bog.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...