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Where to buy leak down tester


J-Madd

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I don't want to make my own tester. I want to buy a complete tester, with plugs for both big flange and small flange exhaust, and 39 mm intakes. Where can I get this? Or will someone make it for me.

 

Call Bob @ RB Racing. About 50 or so plus shipping. He normally has a few kits on ebay, but I haven't seen one in a week or so.

Good guy...sells a nice kit he puts together himself.

 

517-388-3662

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I don't want to make my own tester. I want to buy a complete tester, with plugs for both big flange and small flange exhaust, and 39 mm intakes. Where can I get this? Or will someone make it for me.

 

 

I got mine from a parts supply store like advanced auto, car quest, oreilly's. I think it was around $40. For no more than I use it, it has always worked fine.

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I got mine from a parts supply store like advanced auto, car quest, oreilly's. I think it was around $40. For no more than I use it, it has always worked fine.

 

Do you mean a compression tester or LEAK Down tester... I've never seen a leak down tester at Pep Boys, Murray's, Advanced Auto or Autozone.

I see compression testers all the time.

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Gotta excuse bansh-eman, Jarid...he's still working through the coloring books and Curious George series....LOL...

 

 

Well, he didn't give me a link :biggrin: I welcome all responses, but I think I'm going with Dave's suggestion. My Cheetah has developed a massive air leak...it wants to keep running after killing the ignition after only idling for a minute or so. I can't even purge it b/c it gets too hot idling.

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Just ordered one from Bob for $58 shipped. Will be shipped out today or tommorrow.

 

You should've told him I sent you, you could've got it for 57.99 shipped...LOL.

 

One of these days, I'm gonna have to buy that kit. I keep saying I'm going to...but damn I like go fast parts...LOL.

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I can make you a sanitary, turn key setup for about $120.00. It is banshee specific. Has OEM banshee intake bolt pattern and attaches to the reed cage area of the cylinders using OEM 6mm intake manifold bolts so the carbs, intake and reed have to come off. Billet aluminum block off plate with rubber gasket, schraeder valve, 0-30psi pressure gauge and equalizing fittings for the intake side. Standard compression type rubber butt plugs for the exhaust side. The block off plate also works excellent for lining up the cylinders and keeping them spaced correctly while torqueing them down.

If your interested shoot me a private with contact info and I will send pics of the one I am currently using. Probably take a week or so to fab and ship.

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I can make you a sanitary, turn key setup for about $120.00. It is banshee specific. Has OEM banshee intake bolt pattern and attaches to the reed cage area of the cylinders using OEM 6mm intake manifold bolts so the carbs, intake and reed have to come off. Billet aluminum block off plate with rubber gasket, schraeder valve, 0-30psi pressure gauge and equalizing fittings for the intake side. Standard compression type rubber butt plugs for the exhaust side. The block off plate also works excellent for lining up the cylinders and keeping them spaced correctly while torqueing them down.

If your interested shoot me a private with contact info and I will send pics of the one I am currently using. Probably take a week or so to fab and ship.

 

Two things. What if the problem IS the intake? And what if it's a Cheetah or other banshee aftermarket engine with different intakes?

 

I've had the intake bolts work their way loose (a dab of blue loctite to cure it) and it would rev up due to a small air leak.

Your tester wouldn't account for that.

 

IMO....just removing the carbs and exhaust should be all you have to take off. Exhaust and carbs won't cause an air leak, anything else possibly could.....

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