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MAGURA CLUTCH INSTALL


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I just installed a magura hyd. clutch as per clymer manual. It moves when i have the clutch pulled in and have to rev to keep it running. Is there a different procedure for the hyd. clutch? All the marks are where they are supposed to be. I have new FAST clutch, billet basket and new outer hub.

Anybody got some useful info on this?

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I just installed a magura hyd. clutch as per clymer manual. It moves when i have the clutch pulled in and have to rev to keep it running. Is there a different procedure for the hyd. clutch? All the marks are where they are supposed to be. I have new FAST clutch, billet basket and new outer hub.

Anybody got some useful info on this?

you can not always rely on the case marking. With many after market clutches you need to just turn the sdjuster in until you feel it hit the ball/rod. Then back it off 1/4 turn. Tighten the adjuster and the springs. My arrows do not even come close to lining up with my Hinsons 8 plate setup

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Turn in the little red screw on the clutch lever. Those hydraulic cables suck, btw. I had the slave cylinder go bad in one in a matter of months and the company wouldn't replace it. Easy pull perch and a brand new cable is as good as the $200 (or whatever) hydraulic setup.

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I have had my Magura Hydro clutch for over 5yrs without any issues. I have the optional stainless line but I have yet to install it.

 

Mine pulls the case clutch lever well past the case markings.

I do however keep a MSR Raptor and a newish Motion Pro cable in the tool box for that "just in case" scenerio that I always seem to fall prey to. Sometimes if it weren't for bad luck I would have no luck at all.

 

 

 

F&F

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I had one on my raptor for a week. I couldnt get it right. It would ethire do what yours does or it would slip the clutch because it wouldnt engage all the way.

 

I now have an ASV C5 Pro Pearch and Lever with a Motion Pro Terminator cable.

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I have the magura hyd. clutch.... only problem is the retard who designed the slave cylinder never took a look to see if it mounts nice on the banshee. I have to make a clamp mount for it so the old hold down would stop eating through the cylinder. Shitty design for the banshee application is all. There is always a way to make something better.

 

The hyd. needs no adjustment.... only the pushrod. adjust it to about 1/8" before the max reach of the slave rod.... this way you have a little extra tolerance on both sides of the throw. also put a piece of silicone R/C car fuel line on the area where the rod comes out of the slave to avoid any chaffing or premature wear on the body from the hold down. :biggrin:

 

maybe this will help some of you make the slave last longer....since it is the only weak link in the system.

 

A nice RTC lever and slick-cable will get you the same result for wayyyyyyyy cheaper

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