bansheesmoke Posted June 1, 2008 Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 Has about 45-60 hours on .020 first top end rebuild. But it overheated 3 times caused by way to lean main jets. Im at 1400 elevation. And my compression is about 110 in both cylinders. banshee has starting problems. Usually will only start from pull start or push start then its runs excellent. Mods are in sig. Im tired of push starting this thing every time I want to ride it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njbanshee Posted June 1, 2008 Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 rebuild it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Smoker Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 Throw a new hot rods crank in it shave your head and bore it out another 20 thou and put new pistons in it. Whatever you do don't drive it because something is going to fail and you're probably going to catch a port with a ring. Tear it apart and make sure your connecting rods aren't blue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesmoke Posted June 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 Throw a new hot rods crank in it shave your head and bore it out another 20 thou and put new pistons in it. Whatever you do don't drive it because something is going to fail and you're probably going to catch a port with a ring. Tear it apart and make sure your connecting rods aren't blue! As much as I want to put a hot rods crank in it I really cant afford it. What would make the connecting Rods blue? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 As much as I want to put a hot rods crank in it I really cant afford it. What would make the connecting Rods blue? Lack of lubrication. You most likely did that from overheating (Lean) or have an air leak. 110PSI at your elevation for a used motor is not bad...to be honest. The fact you have to pull start it tells me there is bigger problems...that will only get more expensive to repair. You need to do a complete leak down test on it to see if it's leaking air anywhere. What kind of oil are you using, and at what mixture? Is your fuel system clean? Screen in tank, carbs clean, etc...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesmoke Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 Lack of lubrication. You most likely did that from overheating (Lean) or have an air leak.110PSI at your elevation for a used motor is not bad...to be honest. The fact you have to pull start it tells me there is bigger problems...that will only get more expensive to repair. You need to do a complete leak down test on it to see if it's leaking air anywhere. What kind of oil are you using, and at what mixture? Is your fuel system clean? Screen in tank, carbs clean, etc...? I just cleaned both carbs. Took them completely apart and cleaned them with carb cleaner. I use Yamalube mixed at 36:1 I use a ratio rite cup so its exactly right. It runs so good but will only push start. Brand new stator and coil. So im pretty sure its not an electrical problem. You think a leak down test would be a good idea? I was thinking about doing it. I know your real good with banshees dajogejr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Smoker Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 If you want to bump your compression up and freshen things order a wiseco piston kit with a head gasket, 2 base gaskets, wrist pin bearings, wrist pins, circlips and reed gaskets and new pistons and rings. Take your head off send it to a machine ship and get it shaved 30 thou to start with(it's cheap). Then get a 3 stone cylinder hone make sure there are no gouges on your cylinder walls and run the hone up and down 5 times or so to let the new rings seat. As for the starting problem - I would check the 2 wires that go to your coil - make sure the stake on wire connectors are tight (take a pair of pliers and crimp them a bit to make the connection good) and clean up the 2 leads coming from the coil. Also check your plug ends and make sure they are tight - pull them apart and crimp them a but to tighten them as well. Then put new BR8ES solid tipped plugs in and gap them. Check the tube that connects the carbs together - you should see a small piece of gas line between the insides of the carbs. Once your bike has warmed up does it start fine after that? Just starts hard when it's cold? Does it miss or cut out once you have been riding for any period of time? with 110 comperssion your bike should still start fine. also - get rid of that yamalube and run better oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesmoke Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 When its warmed up it still wont kickstart. Ya the choke crossover tube is in place. I didnt get to wam it up completely completly cause the cops came to my house for riding it on the street. It runs excellent but just wont kick start. I checked for spark and its sparks every time. Thats why I think its compression. Ya I should be running Castor 927. It will usually kickstart when its cold after 1-2 kicks when I put new plugs in it then shut it down and it wont kickstart again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 3, 2008 Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 If it runs perfect after it's started AND warmed up, you can almost rule out electrical... When my old stocker motor had 110 PSI, it was a bear to start cold. But...once warmed up, half a kick. I agree your compression could be higher, but it should start one kick warm...it's not like it's 80PSI per side. What kind of compression tester are you using? I wonder if it's an el cheapo....they are often way off. Were the rods blued before or after your last rebuild?? trying to figure if it's a past or current problem. Usually, if it's an air leak...it'll be real tinny up top...or zingy. Revs but no power. And when you come to a stop, it takes a while to idle down...or, at idle, it starts surging. Do you have a Ricky Stator Stator? Did you set your flywheel air gap properly? Let's start from scratch. All your mods, elevation, temps and current jetting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesmoke Posted June 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2008 If it runs perfect after it's started AND warmed up, you can almost rule out electrical...When my old stocker motor had 110 PSI, it was a bear to start cold. But...once warmed up, half a kick. I agree your compression could be higher, but it should start one kick warm...it's not like it's 80PSI per side. What kind of compression tester are you using? I wonder if it's an el cheapo....they are often way off. Were the rods blued before or after your last rebuild?? trying to figure if it's a past or current problem. Usually, if it's an air leak...it'll be real tinny up top...or zingy. Revs but no power. And when you come to a stop, it takes a while to idle down...or, at idle, it starts surging. Do you have a Ricky Stator Stator? Did you set your flywheel air gap properly? Let's start from scratch. All your mods, elevation, temps and current jetting. Not sure what kind of tester it is. It doesnt say so I took a picture of it. When I rebuilt it last time the rods were not blued at all. just like a brownish color. Ya I just brought a brand new Ricky stator and put the timing at +4. The flywheel gap is good I checked it with a feeler guage. Mods and jetting are in sig. Im in arizona so its pretty hot about 100 degrees. Elevation is 1400' above sea level. I never had this problem before. It used to start first kick every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesmoke Posted June 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 anyone have any other ideas or any input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 If you still have a stock stator or can get your hands on one, do that. Trust me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man-O-Steele Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 If you still have a stock stator or can get your hands on one, do that. Trust me... agreed. what do your plugs look like out of curiosity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastquad02blaster Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 My shee has about 115 on both sides and it runs like a striped @$$ ape. I would suggest checking out the above mentioned things because of the overheating that has occurred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 yea yank that ricky stator crap off your bike. i bet it'll start a million times easier when you go back to stator. Also id still do a leakdown test and check........then after its running i would do another plug chop and check your jetting. The reason i say this is because for being at 1400 ft above sea level and only having T5 pipes.......310 is a pretty freakin big main jet. i could see if you were runnin a port job but you don't mention that at all..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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