rubberneck Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 The method I've heard being used is you take a gasket and mark out or cut it out the size of the cylinder transfers and transfer that to the case, any other methods? I put some Dykem blue on the case surface to give nice contrast when you scribe. I then bolted the cylinders to the top case half and turned it upside down. I have a scribe that is hooked on one end, so i could reach up through the bottom and scribe a mark on the case following the contour of the transfers on the cylinder. I feel this is easier than gasket transfer method because you are using the cylinder bolted down as it is going to be during final assembly, and you dont need to worry about the gasket moving around on you. Here is a pic of a set i scribed, but didn't use the dykem, you can kind of see the scribe marks in the pic, but not great. (Hence the use of the dykem, makes life a lot easier especially if you have shitty eyes like me. LOL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 It's worth it to do it yourself, even if it takes an hour or so of your time, taking your time and doing it right. You do NOT want a mirror-polished finish, just a smooth type finish.... I'll do this to mine when the motor is broken down again.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Wow that's quite a bit of material^^^. Is it just a guesstimate on how much to take off, or how far down or at what angle and what not? Are cubs going to be worse than stockers? I'd guess ported cylinders are definately the ones benefiting from this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 because of the larger bore and more transfer area of the cubs...I'd say it's worth it!! I use a big bore base gasket and a black sharpie marker to mark where I'm gonna grind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Wow that's quite a bit of material^^^. Is it just a guesstimate on how much to take off, or how far down or at what angle and what not? Are cubs going to be worse than stockers? I'd guess ported cylinders are definately the ones benefiting from this. Its not really as much as you might think, most areas were 1/8 inch or so. Basically, i just ground to the scribe lines and tapered it smooth down to the bottom. Looked just like the pics of the completed set above. Not too bad of a job at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 The gasket method sounds good but I think rubberneck's sounds more exact. I'm sure both are fine but if I'm gonna do it i might as well take time to do it all right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Either way works fine if you take your time. Gasket matching to me is just a little more cumbersome, you have to make damn sure the gasket sits exactly right while you are marking it out, plus if the gasket is bigger than the cylinder at any point, you will be taking off more material then needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 I check both. Flip the cylinder over, put the gasket on there. Normally, with the engine spacers...it matches up pretty darn good on the cases as well (I mean the little collars that go around the case studs, btw.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Yeah, im sure a lot depends on the type of gasket you are using also. The one for my cub was actually bigger than it needed to be, couldn't use it to do the gasket match trick. Here is that same set of cases with the gasket laid over the studs. Notice the scribe lines are inside the gasket material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Clean that thing up, you're hurting me eyes...LOL!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1Inferno Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 OMG someone who doesnt take their time to polish everything just to get it dirty again, HIGH FIVE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 OMG someone who doesnt take their time to polish everything just to get it dirty again, HIGH FIVE. C'mon now...it's easier and safer to work on a clean engine once you've gotten it down this far.... :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1Inferno Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 C'mon now...it's easier and safer to work on a clean engine once you've gotten it down this far.... :thumbsup: yeah i clean mine, in a parts cleaner, but i sure as shit dont polish anything unless its starting to pit, or oxadize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Clean that thing up, you're hurting me eyes...LOL!! No point in cleaning it before you put the grinder to it. No worries though, it cleaned up just fine. LOL Same motor in my sig: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Here is what spawned my "rebuild" LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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