jkross Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Hey Guys, bear with me...I'm not a mechanic. Blew my motor (the right side) in the Florence, OR dunes this past weekend. It gave it's life for a good cause, though - destroyed a 700 Raptor with a power commander and pipe...don't know if that's too big-a-deal, but I got a kick out of it. Anyway, boom - the right side blows and the motor dies. Being terminally stupid, I kicked it and it started, but only had exhaust out of the left side...so I shut it down. The spark plug looked to be cloated with a layer of near-microscopic metal debris...it was silver. Have NOT taken the motor apart yet. Anyway, this will be my first ever rebuild, and I'd like to keep costs down, but I'd also like to go a little bigger. Don't know if I can do just the top end, or if I have to do the whole thing. So Here are my questions: 1. If I can get away with just doing the top end, what parts, or which kit do I need? (I'd like to go bigger than the stock bore, but don't need to go to a Cub by any means...just want a little more. What are my options?) 2. If I have to do the whole thing (whatever that means) what do I need? 3. How the hell will I know the difference? IE...how can I tell which part of the motor the failure has affected? Right now I've got some basic mods: - a "mild port" - a shaved head - Stock carbs - k&N clamp on pods - FMF Fatty's I've been wanting to add the Vforce3 Reeds and bigger carbs...which I will during this rebuild. (Jetting questions to follow) So, how big can I bore it? Who should I have do it? How many different sizes are there to choose from, kit wise? Just don't know where to start. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endofitall9 Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 if you got metal in your cylinder you might be better off just to split the cases and examine the crank.. Wiseco postons are the only way to go depending on how bad your cylinders are a builder will determine what they need to be bored too. why you was at it you should look into porting your cylinders as well..you will see the biggest increase of all. I would call around and get some estimates...jeff at fast is a great guy and will get you going F.A.S.T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkross Posted April 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Hey guys...stand down. Sorry. I never believed all the posts that said, "just give Jeff at F.A.S.T. a call. and he'll take care of you." Well, in desparation, I called, and he answered the phone. He answered all my dumbass questions with a smile. He's one squared away dude. He's gonna walk me through it. Thanks for the help. Until later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 what were you running for jetting and what elevation were you at when it blew up? what was the temp? are those all the mods you have done...what's listed that is? how shaved is the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkross Posted May 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 Hey a couple things. First of all, I'll attempt to upload some pics of the carnage...and it is truly carnage. Can anyone tell me about the side without a hole in it...the entire top of the piston is black. Is that normal? Everything was done to this quad when I bought it in August of 06. The guy had every peice of paper for everything that was done to it...which is where I got the info. The head was reportedly shaved .60??? whatever that means. It ran so F'ing strong. I only ever go to the Oregon Dunes (Florence, Winchester Bay) so at sea level. Jetting...sorry to say I don't know. The plug checks always looked stellar on both sides...so I never worried about it. Guess I need to gain an understanding about how often to do the top end...after how many hours. Can anyone give me advice on that? Debating on sending the motor to FAST to have Jeff go through it. Going to do some simple upgrades...V-Force 3's, Cool head, timing plate...nothing radical. I'd do the work myself but not sure what this kind of failure means. The crank was "tured and welded" whatever that means...so is it damaged? How can I tell? I can see chunks of the piston down in the motor. How do I get those out? Can I without splitting the cases? Too many questions, I know. I'm going to talk to give Jeff a call later in the week, when he's not so busy, to discuss all this. So don't feel obligated to answer...but I haven't seen answers to those quesitons in the forums yet...(and I actually looked a little.) Anyway, enjoy the pictures (if they worked). The only good part is that I destroyed my buddy on his brand new Raptor 700...like it wasn't even there. It was a good feeling...until it went boom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 You need to split the cases. Some people try and "flush" the bottom end out, but you will never get all the fragments out after a failure like that. You definately went lean on the bad side wether it be a air leak, or temp change and just didn't check your jetting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkross Posted May 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 OK...will do. One follow up question: I agree on the lean part...not much doubt. But how? Air leak? What did you mean by air leak? The jetting's always been money. It was due for a top end for sure, but what would cause it to lean so suddenly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Banshee Posted May 6, 2008 Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 air leaks for example around reeds,carbs,Etc. causes that particular side to become real lean and drill the pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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