Snopczynski Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 Clip in second from top:It feels a bit more awake now in the middle range, wheelies to 4th gear then it loses pull and 5th and 6th gear feels a bit long...I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskyohilux Posted April 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 did you run a compression test? No I don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskyohilux Posted April 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 gearing? tire size? stock trans? All stock, what do you think about the right side exhausts producing less heat and pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskyohilux Posted April 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 Ummm, your not ever supposed to change a bunch of things at once. You always set mains, then needles, then pilot circuit. The needles will affect the way a bike runs alot. Whoever told you they are for temperature change is a fucking idiot. If you have oil in the silencers the needles are rich. Yeah, I remember hearing about starting with main, then needle, then pilot but in all fuzz I rushed it and since I suspected I was rich all over I did it all at once...when you say needle will affect the run do you mean clip position or another leaner needle? And I think it was a keihin chart I saw something about the clip position and extreme temperatures like sub zero->rise clip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskyohilux Posted April 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 If you have oil in the silencers the needles are rich. Since I raised the clip one notch to leanen the needle the right silencer cleaned up and looks really nicely tanned and the left side is still a bit wet...but the left side is the one that produces nice pressure and heat from the exhausts. The right side that looks nice aren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 If your xhaust ports are raised from the porting the comp. will be lower. Maybe new plugs? Plug cap? Reeds seating fully? Air leaks? Clip position and needle size effect running ability. I think from memory your needles are close for twins. So just adjust your clip position. Chances are you will never get the bottom end of a smaller bore carb. I also think it is too much carb for the top. Your pipes will only pull aroud 8600-8700 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Here study this web page. It will help you with your Keihin Jetting DRI Keihin Jetting Tech Page LINK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskyohilux Posted April 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 (edited) Here study this web page. It will help you with your Keihin JettingDRI Keihin Jetting Tech Page LINK That Edited April 28, 2008 by huskyohilux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Try a pair of 152 mains with the needle in the 3rd clip from the top. See how that runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEVSWS6 Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 That Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEVSWS6 Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Sorry we didn't get closer on the jetting. The CEL is a good needle for the 35's and the port job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskyohilux Posted April 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Don't be afraid of the stock carbs. They will make good power. They will have more low end than the 35's. Just make sure your main jet is at least 340 and work down if needed. I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEVSWS6 Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Try the stock carbs first they are paid for. They really do lay down nice numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOS_350x Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 I just put 37 pj's on my stock bore/stroke/cyl shee, has Duncan midrange porting and ptr pipes. and pyramid reed cage. Just went up from 34's I wanted some more and got it. Screams on top now. Jetting for the 34's was 165 main 58 pilot mid clip jetting for the 37 is 180 main 58 pilot, 1 up from the bottom Also running a airbox with proflow K&N I dont understand why everyone uses such small carbs. Moving up really woke this thing up. It was fast before it just moved the power around to where i wanted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 I just put 37 pj's on my stock bore/stroke/cyl shee, has Duncan midrange porting and ptr pipes. and pyramid reed cage. Just went up from 34's I wanted some more and got it. Screams on top now. Jetting for the 34's was 165 main 58 pilot mid clip jetting for the 37 is 180 main 58 pilot, 1 up from the bottom Also running a airbox with proflow K&N I dont understand why everyone uses such small carbs. Moving up really woke this thing up. It was fast before it just moved the power around to where i wanted. Everyone uses small carbs cause when you dyno test a motor with huge carbs like a 35mm pwk and the tq and hp curve look like this _______________________________________/ until 8000 rpm. Then once the motor hits 10,000 rpm the tq and hp curve looks like this ----------------------------------------------------\. If you run a nice optimum size carb then you get a good hp and tq curve across the board, and the velocity on the top stays strong and you dont kill your top end. Too big of a carb willl make you lose topend power, as well as bottom end power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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