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Drag ported stockers or cub


okbeast

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I've got some stock cyls. dune ported by Kevin right now, they're great for what I do right now but just not fast enough at LS and the river, so it's time to upgrade. I'm either going to upgrade to a drag port by him or get a stock stroke cub. Which option would you guys (hopefully with these motors/experience) suggest for a duner/play bike. Which would have more bottom end. I'm going to run Shearers most likely with 34 or 35 carbs, 180 lbs. of compression and 5-6 degrees timing, etc. Just weighin the options right now.

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I have never owned a drag ported stock cylinder. My buddy has a pretty aggressive stock cylinder bike, but its a 7mm stroker. I have ridden it quite a bit it hauls ass. So I cant really compare the 2 motors for you because the stroker is a different beast. I decided to go cub on my rebuild because in the end it really wasn't that much more money. Figure a good drag port is probably around $500 on up. You can buy the cub cylinders for $850. From what i have read, it will take a really good stock cylinder port job to outrun the cub out of the box. You can then take the cub and have it drag ported to get even more out of it. All of your old components exept the domes in your head are compatible, so that is a non issue as far as cost. I struggled a little with the cub decision only because i wasn't sure if i wanted to give up all the bottom end as it was described to me. I was considering play ported stock cylinders vs cub. If i was considering drag ported stockers, I dont think i would have struggled at all. May as well go cub. Just my perspective.

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depends on what you want to spend.i have kevin's 4mil drag port and it will out run a stock stroke cub that has no porting i would say.with my setup you will have just the same in as a set of nonported cub cylinders.but if you are like everybody else, every year want to get faster. then the cub would be the way to go, cause there is more work to be done with them to make them faster.its all in what you want

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depends on what you want to spend.i have kevin's 4mil drag port and it will out run a stock stroke cub that has no porting i would say.with my setup you will have just the same in unported cub cylinders.but if you are like everybody else every year want to get faster then the cub would be the way to go cause can do more work to them and make them even faster.all in what you want

 

How does it run against a 4mil out of the box cub? It would be cool to have a BHQ get together somewhere and get a bunch of different combos side by side to compare

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I think I can sell my stockers to pay for around 1/2 of a cub. And if I end up with a 68mm bore cub I already have some domes to fit that so that's good. And like everyone says you'll wanna go bigger in the end, most likely end up with a 4mm in it. I always say that I want to keep some of the low-end for playing around but most of the time we just end up drag racing everywhere we go lol. As long as it's still duneable and I can play around at the river some i'm golden.

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I've got some stock cyls. dune ported by Kevin right now, they're great for what I do right now but just not fast enough at LS and the river, so it's time to upgrade. I'm either going to upgrade to a drag port by him or get a stock stroke cub. Which option would you guys (hopefully with these motors/experience) suggest for a duner/play bike. Which would have more bottom end. I'm going to run Shearers most likely with 34 or 35 carbs, 180 lbs. of compression and 5-6 degrees timing, etc. Just weighin the options right now.

What other mods do you have besides the porting. on the bike now

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Ya, the cubby is a great motor, but you are going to have to improve the rest of the drivetrain in order to make use of the newly added power. So you really need to do your research before you buy parts.............

 

Everybody has made valid points, but if he is talking about going to a really hot drag ported stock cylinder motor, he is going to need all the drivetrain upgrades also. So instead of setting everything up for the stock cylinder now, He can just buy once and be done. By all means building a cub from scratch new parts is not cheap. About 4k, but he will be hauling the mail.

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If you go cub Youll Need A better Clutch,Maybe Lockup,Overide If you wanna go anywhere,Bigger Carbs,Intakes.A cub is not that cheap if you want to get the most out of it.then the pipes.

I went from my stock motor/swinger/carbs etc. (had t5's) to a stock stroke cub setup for about $1850 altogether for bigger carbs, intakes, swinger, carrier, and chain. My clutch has been holding up fine and I have no problems shifting it. The only thing left is pipes (shearer's or cpi's) and I'm going to wait for a good price on them for around 3-400 bux. I'll find it eventually.

 

My cub flat out rips too. Its great for climbing, duning, racing, I haven't done any trail riding with it but I think I would have plenty of fun with it. You have to stay on the throttle and clutch it to keep it on the pipe sometimes though, there is NO bottom end. It is gutless down there. Otherwise I love it. I don't regret getting it at all and am glad I did.

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This is not going to be a drag bike so lock-up and override will come later. I've already got swinger, gettin some carbs from a buddy, and might try my T-5's on it just for shits. It's not gonna cost me a whole lot more to go to the cub after I sell what I have and switch to bigger/better stuff. I don't like hearing that its really gutless down low but we'll see :confused:

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This is not going to be a drag bike so lock-up and override will come later. I've already got swinger, gettin some carbs from a buddy, and might try my T-5's on it just for shits. It's not gonna cost me a whole lot more to go to the cub after I sell what I have and switch to bigger/better stuff. I don't like hearing that its really gutless down low but we'll see :confused:

I think it may be a little better than stock on bottom, but compared to the topend once you hit the pipe there is nothing. The only time it bothers me is when I'm climbing and come off the pipe, it can be hard to get back. I end up clutching the shit out of it to get it back.

 

Don't get me wrong though, it is so much fun to ride, I just open it up most of the time and use the gears and clutch to hold me back or get the power to the ground.

Edited by bonbon
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My patriot dradg ported 4mill ran like crap on T5 compaired to my cpi's. It ran good on the t5 but not near as good as cpi. If you never had it you dont really miss it type of thing. Since you say your not building a drag bike you obvesly are not concerned with getting every ounce of hp out of it. I would build a Drag ported 4mill. The 4mill helps out a lot in the midrange. I would go with Cpi pipes since they have a little earlier hit. Then Get a set of carbs. If this still isnt enough then drop on a 421cc 4mill cub cylinder. You will already have the pipes and carbs.

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