fun_on_the_sand Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Hey guys I need all your dunning experience here, I want to build a banshee exclusively for dunning at Glamis. 120% dunes. I you were to start with a fresh stock and well cared banshee, what your preferences would be in: - Engine (include porting shop) - carbs - intake - pipes - head / domes - clutch - sand tires - suspension - swing arm - headlights (I love nightdunning) - misc. mods Thank you guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin8r Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Hey guys I need all your dunning experience here, I want to build a banshee exclusively for dunning at Glamis. 120% dunes. I you were to start with a fresh stock and well cared banshee, what your preferences would be in: - Engine (include porting shop) - carbs - intake - pipes - head / domes - clutch - sand tires - suspension - swing arm - headlights (I love nightdunning) - misc. mods Thank you guys And what, exactly, is wrong with your Banshee? Your'Shee is Bad-Ass! Matter of fact, if you get to building your ultimate Shee, I'll lighten the load by buying your SE.... :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IrideA250R Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 (edited) 10mm stock cylinder motor done by Patriot or another knowledgeable shop. CPI in frames 35 or 38mm PWK's with clamp ons beefy ass clutch to hold the power, probably a lockup 55 watt headlights, one spot, one flood +2+1 a arms with a nice shock setup, Fox Floats, PEP, Axis etc +4 axle with a matching rear shock +6 to +8 swingarm Skat Trak mohawk 22 inch fronts Skat Trak Haulers in the rear, whatever size fits your taste Edited April 3, 2008 by IrideA250R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun_on_the_sand Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 And what, exactly, is wrong with your Banshee? Your'Shee is Bad-Ass! Matter of fact, if you get to building your ultimate Shee, I'll lighten the load by buying your SE.... :cool: There is nothing wrong with it, I love it. And I love its stock look. I know if I change suspension, headlights and cut the fenders it will loose the look. That's why I am thinking of building a new one. But as you should know, everything is on sale. If you are interesdet PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun_on_the_sand Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Any one else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nameehsnab Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 (edited) Hey guys I need all your dunning experience here, I want to build a banshee exclusively for dunning at Glamis. 120% dunes. I you were to start with a fresh stock and well cared banshee, what your preferences would be in: - Engine (include porting shop) - carbs - intake - pipes - head / domes - clutch - sand tires - suspension - swing arm - headlights (I love nightdunning) - misc. mods Thank you guys Stocker engine (once you start messing with the inside you just have a headache)(Trail port or dune port) Stocker Carbs (TORS removed) Toomey T5 Pipes Cool head (Noss of Fast w/ 20 CC Domes) Vforce 3 Reeds Hella 500 Lights (I like both driving lights but some like 1 flood and 1 driving) PIAA Extreme white bulbs H3 (35 watt unless you have a larger stator) Dirt digger Clutch +2+1 A arms with Elka dune edition shocks +2 to +4 swing arm with Elka dune edition shock +2 to +4 rear axle Skat Track Mohawks on front (22") Skat Track Haulers Extreme 20-10-10 10 paddle Larger Rad (additional cooling for dead man drops) Air Box removed K&N Pods Edited April 3, 2008 by nameehsnab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nameehsnab Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Forgot to add change front sprocket to 13 tooth change impeller to proflo billet impeller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 I'd just do a 4mil dune ported stock cyl. motor w/ all the goodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun_on_the_sand Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 I'd just do a 4mil dune ported stock cyl. motor w/ all the goodies. stock bore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Sure, what's the point in wasting bores in your cylinders. And big bore kits are a waste of money IMO. You're not looking for max HP i don't think just something that will work damn good in the dunes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun_on_the_sand Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Sure, what's the point in wasting bores in your cylinders. And big bore kits are a waste of money IMO. You're not looking for max HP i don't think just something that will work damn good in the dunes. Thank you for your advice and excuse my next dumb question, but, what's the most significant benefit out of a stroker? torque? bottom end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bk_banshee Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 I'd do a 4mm cub motor with a clean up port but nothing special. Definantly more reliable then and stock cyclinder job and will have more horse power and the Aluminum will keep it cooler then then stock cylinder. I'd run a bored set of stock carbs too. There is nothing wrong with that at all. I good builder/tuner can get them to run just as good as a set of 34mm 2-stroke at Glamis DESERT TANK MANDATORY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Ya, I'd save up and go with the better set-up. The tolerances for the stock cylendars are pushed when you start tryin' to use the big bore kits and they are not as reliable in the end............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Thank you for your advice and excuse my next dumb question, but, what's the most significant benefit out of a stroker? torque? bottom end? Yes, more torque/bottom end, at least that's what I've heard. I personally just have a strong dune port and it runs fine. As for going with a cub and it being more reliable??? I don't see where this argument has a basis. I mean if ur pockets are deep sure, if you won't be doing any trail riding (at LS there are some "dune trails") then a cub might be ok. I've never ridden a "stocker" cub, only one's i've been on are dragged out so.... For the money of a stocker 4mil I can't find another reason to go to a cub. Also on the stock bored carbs, by the time you spend the money for someone reputable to do that you could almost have a set of 33 or 34's I would think. But to each his own. Some kind of budget would be nice to know on a thread like this as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun_on_the_sand Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 I thought the Cubs were intended for drags, and therefore for top end, and when dunning I think you are looking for for bottom/mid range power. I am surprised nobody has mentioned the 2 into 1 intake, I think it helps the bottom end and throtle response. Would you guys consider it as a must for a dunner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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