660r2a400ex Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 look guys i know nothing about the cheetahs. i was looking at the 400, useing my stock crank, i guess i can bolt the whole kit on, replacing pistons, cyclinders, prolly carbs and reeds ? how much should a nice 75-85 hp set up run me, and what all do i need. also for what im looking for, just a play bike, but i dont like losing to 65 hp. 450s could a simple head mod put me around 65-70 hp with supporting mods(pipes,filter, and jets) ? or would i notice a big gain with head mod and port and polish. idk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 Do you strictly drag race, trail ride, etc? Porting alone should get the job done...but who has 65 HP 450s?? I'm not saying it can't be done...but it takes BIG cheddar to get 450s in the mid 60s...... A strong dune port, the proper tire, gearing, etc should put them to bed nicely.... IF all you do is drag race, override is the key to victory there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 Like Daj said...we need more info on your intentions...play in the dunes, drag and dune, drag only, etc....A cub setup would be just as good and cheaper and has the same peak HP as the cheetah motor..just so there is no confusion...There is a chetah cub kit and a cheetah powervalve kit...The only difference is the powervalves in the one kit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
660r2a400ex Posted February 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 my boy, i built it, and its about its a lil under 60, plus a 25 shot !!!, drag only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 Well if you're going to drag only then I'd spend the extra money and get a 4mil crank..that will also make a huge difference..They are easy to fond and are on ebay and on here quite often from what I can tell..My 4mil 421 cheetah powervalve motor is making 80-85hp with the current set-up.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelhead Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 (edited) Well if you're going to drag only then I'd spend the extra money and get a 4mil crank..that will also make a huge difference..They are easy to fond and are on ebay and on here quite often from what I can tell..My 4mil 421 cheetah powervalve motor is making 80-85hp with the current set-up.. How much difference in power would there be in a Cub w/t 4mil vs Cheetah w/t powervalve & 4 mil? Just curious... sorry not trying to hijack .... Edited February 27, 2008 by shovelhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Handyman Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 From what I've read and from what the big dogs who have more experience with the powervalve motors say that the torque curve is different due to the powervalves adding more torque down low due to the air in the cylinder doesn't have a free flow out of the cylinder and out into the exhaust...Not too sure if the HP is affected by the powervalves or not... The peak HP between the 2 motors are the same...The cheetah powervalve motors also have a CR250 reed set up(bigger intake opening= more air) The cubs have the regular banshee reeds set-up and the powervalve motor also has a specific head that cannot be used on a cub motor...the OEM head can be used on the cub motors but not the banshee motors...I know I just repeated myself but just want to make sure that there is no confusion with others that may read this. The guys who specifically drag race use the cheetah powervalve cylinders because of the bigger intake opening. I have no numbers as to what the HP difference will be with astock crank compared to a 4mil crank...I do know that is is pretty significant.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider1026 Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 i love my 392 cub!! its a stock stroke with a 68mm bore!! and it kicks ass all day long. i am not running an overide due to the type of riding that i do, i did do the shift pro kit and a modded star!! like i said, it hauls ass man!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
660r2a400ex Posted February 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 i do drag but its a brand new bike 06 with 10 hrs. i want to keep the stock crank, so what kind of prices for the lil cheetah cub set up ? and can i run the cylinders and pistons w/ stock carbs ? would i be better of with a port and polish and a hed mod ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sled Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 your still gonna have to pull the stock crank to get it trued and welded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 i do drag but its a brand new bike 06 with 10 hrs. i want to keep the stock crank, so what kind of prices for the lil cheetah cub set up ? and can i run the cylinders and pistons w/ stock carbs ? would i be better of with a port and polish and a hed mod ? Stock carbs should not be in the same sentence as a drag bike or cub cylinders. Get your stockers ported....cubs are dune/drag bike motors that want to breathe. You'd be choking it with stock carbs...period. You wouldn't put a two barrel carb on a Sprint Cup car anymore than you should leave stock carbs on a drag bike. At the very least, get some 33 to 35mm carbs, free flowing pipes (Shearer, CPI...etc.) and get some port work done. Then see if you like the direction you are going. If you want to build a bike for beating up on 4 strokes, get a dune port on yours, HD clutch, 33PWK carbs, mill the head a little and CPI pipes. You'll beat 'em all day long, if you can ride and can get traction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
660r2a400ex Posted February 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 i can ride, but whats " traction " . lol i sit back as far as i can and i let her ripp off the line but i normally dont pass any one til 3rd or 4th. also guys how much $$$ im i looking at, i am on a budget and it seams like im gonna be going way out of it, i grew up on 4 strokes and $1000 could get you pipe,filter,jets,cam,and piston and you'd sit around 50-55 hp and still have some change left over. what can i do to give the shee some boost for about $1000, maybe im way out of line with the cheetah!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 1000 won't get you cylinders and the head. Get it ported, well within your budget....and a big improvment. No way you could get a cheetah or cub setup for 1000 bucks unless you stole half the parts you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex789 Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 at what cc bore do you have to go to big bore pipes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 just for reference, 4mil crank, cheetah cubs, pistons, cool head, 39 pwks with billet bowls, good clutch , shearer inframes, pingle valve and all the other little stuff is gonna run you right around 4k. Should put you at 80-90 HP on race gas and will kick the shit out of the 4 poke. Dont forget you are going to need a longer swinger etc etc etc. A Cheetah motor im guessing would be at least 1500 bucks more by the time you figure the bigger reeds and the cylinders are more money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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