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Cool Head O Rings


jayzx10r

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I see that both PD and Noss use the same o ring design, does one manufacturer offer a better replacement o ring set? I think Noss has a couple of red ones while the PD's are all the same black color.

Does it matter?

 

Did anyone look at that Chariots Performance Head in the other thread? I like how small it is and the fact that it uses a lot less o rings. Don't a lot of aftermarket pipes hit the PD and Noss heads?

 

It looks like it also has less coolant capacity in the dome area though. I wonder if that would matter. That just leaves more clearance for pipes!! :cool:

 

Anyone on those o rings?

 

Jay From Sandy...ego.

Edited by jayzx750
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Usually the black orings are made of flouro-carbon (Viton) and the reddish ones are flouro-silicon. They both have high temp ratings and either will work fine. The viton orings have a higher temp rating and have a better resistence to some fuel types.

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Jay, on the 4 or 5 kits I've purchased in the last couple of years, they all had brown dome O rings (Combustion chamber seal) and black for the rest.

 

I'm getting a chariot head, but it'll be a few months before I put it on...have to get domes cut to match my motor, etc....

 

I'm getting a deal I can't pass up on one...so, I'll report back to let you guys know how it works.

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Jay, on the 4 or 5 kits I've purchased in the last couple of years, they all had brown dome O rings (Combustion chamber seal) and black for the rest.

 

I'm getting a chariot head, but it'll be a few months before I put it on...have to get domes cut to match my motor, etc....

 

I'm getting a deal I can't pass up on one...so, I'll report back to let you guys know how it works.

Thanks for the info. It doesn't seem like it really matters...

I guess I'll just pick up which ever one is the best price.

 

Let me know if you can hook up on a second one!! I'm not sure of the color I'd want though. :shrug:

Red would look good against the blue, but so would the chrome or blue....

 

Jay.

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dajogejr,

 

They are making domes now? They, or someone from there, called a while back asking me to make domes for them. :laugh:

 

No sir....:)

 

I'm having someone else cut me domes...which...I'm sure came from your stock or shelves at one time since they do plenty of business with you!

 

I gotta get some cut for my motor, didn't mean to imply they were doing that for me....

 

:wink:

 

Have you thought about making a 1 piece head Dave? I simply can't deal with the stud Orings on the two piece shells.

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I've made a few prototype one-piece shells but have never been happy with them. A one-piece design is actually easier and less expensive to manufacture but I have to like it before I can sell it. I do have some ideas for a new design but haven't had time to prototype it.

 

A one-piece head is not immune to the issue of coolant leaking past the studs. The nut and washer is still the barrier to that.

 

I guess you had some sealing problems with one of my heads and would have liked to help resolve the problem. I haven't had any other unresolved problems (that I know of).

 

I've also thought about not even using the stud orings and using Parker stat-o-seals in place of the copper washers. If someone wants to try it, let me know.

 

Hope it works well for you.

 

-David

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David...

 

The first two times I had my new build out last year, it was 100% my fault. 16cc domes ran damn good in my 4 mil on race gas in 06. It is my fault for not checking compression when I switched to a 10 mil and alky last year. I never checked...just ran it.

Two trips to the dunes, less than 10 runs each time...popped Orings. Not a fuel issue...too small of a dome.

 

Yes the stud Orings leaked...RTV and new washers sealed it...it just got to be a chore taking it off, putting it back on.

 

When I finally got the domes cut to the right spec, it was late at night....was supposed to race the next day, and I burned the midnight oil putting it together. Yep...despite carefully assembling the head, RTV on the studs, RTV on the washers and nuts...yep...leaked again at about 1 in the morning when I was done.

 

I had it. Put on a stocker that was cut to the same dome spec, milled and cut for an Oring...

Leaked on two or three studs, RTV'd 'em...and ran it like that ALL year long.

 

So...Dave, while I'm partially to blame...I just got tired of dealing with all of the Orings....mainly the stud Orings...to be honest.

 

This head with 6 total Orings, not to mention looks different..pretty cool, might be my ticket. A friend and fellow racer uses one, no issues.

 

I've always been a supporter of you, and appreciate the few times we talked on the phones and via PMs.

I have absolute no doubt with your support you more than likely could've solved my problem...or at least attempted to give it your best efforts...

 

I've just chosen a different route. BigRed350X has my old head, no issues that I know of, maybe you could include an RTV video/directions just for me.....LOL...

 

:wink:

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I too...would be very interested in testing a 1 piece head from you as well...despite the fact I'm purchasing a different one coming up.

 

hey me 1st. im a poor college student LOL. i was really talkin about one of the old prototypes that's probably just sitting on a shelf somewhere collecting dust :whistling:

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I too...would be very interested in testing a 1 piece head from you as well...despite the fact I'm purchasing a different one coming up.

 

 

I was talking about trying leaving off the stud orings and using stat-o-seals under the nuts. My Super Cub heads don't use any stud orings, only copper washers and acorn nuts, and there haven't been any problem with them.

 

I don't have any of my prototypes.

 

And I do appreciate your support. I just hate that it didn't work for you.

Edited by dlnoss
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I'm a jet engine mech and have used the stat o seals many times and they work very well. I thought about using them on the cool head but just never got around to it. The seals are a little pricey and will be hard to find in metric sizes but a 3/8" should work.

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The thing I like about the PD and Noss head is you can unbolt the rear hose fitting from the head. Fighting to get that rear hose on and sliding the head down while keeping the orings in place is a pain. When ever I take my PD head off I just un do the 2 allen head bolts and leave the rear elbow fitting in the hose. That Charriot Head looks like the elbow thread in to the head, instead of bolting on and sealing with an oring.

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