inthemail Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 Can somebody inform me as to how to remov my pistons from my crank.... i got the circlips out but my wristpin seems like its pressed in there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSYKO Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 if you got the c-clips out then the wrist pin should just slide out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthemail Posted February 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 if you got the c-clips out then the wrist pin should just slide out. thats my experience with chain saws and other 2 strokes. but both of em will only go about 3MM either way. There Pro-x pistons.... that might have something to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 thats my experience with chain saws and other 2 strokes. but both of em will only go about 3MM either way. There Pro-x pistons.... that might have something to do with it. Unless things have gotten REALLY hot they should just slide out. However, sometimes they can be stubborn. Are you replacing anything like pistons or the crank? If so you have some options. Last ones I had a hard time removing were in a couple of pistons I was replacing. I used a crossbar bearing puller with a bearing splitter. A threaded rod with a crossbar on one side of the piston and the bearing splitter on the other. Then I pressed the wrist pin out. If the crankshaft is out you have a lot of other options as well. Good luck. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSYKO Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 Some people are like slinkies. Not good for much, but they sure do bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs! spurdy your sig is fucking hilarious! :yelrotflmao: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthemail Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 well, i dont have a fancy tool as of yet. but i will be splitting the cases and removing the crank.... so they normally slide out after circlips eh? im probley gonna just beat them out ill jam a piece of weed against teh side of the rod (doesnt really matter anyway it needs new rod bearings) much obliged, its getting light out gotta go to sleep before the sun cracks the surface..... graveyard shift is great eh'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 well, i dont have a fancy tool as of yet. but i will be splitting the cases and removing the crank.... so they normally slide out after circlips eh? im probley gonna just beat them out ill jam a piece of weed against teh side of the rod (doesnt really matter anyway it needs new rod bearings) much obliged, its getting light out gotta go to sleep before the sun cracks the surface..... graveyard shift is great eh'? If your splitting the cases, just wait till the crank is out. Lay the piston on its side and drive out the wrist pin. Waiting till the crank is out will help insure that you don't damage the rod. That way the crank can be rebuilt or used as a core or whatever. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzuki2903 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 this is really common on snowmobiles! sometimes ive used small torch (small blue bottle type) and heat the underside of the piston on bothe sides of the top end bearing. then use a wrist pin puller right after before cooling. dont use a punch and hammer etc... just my .2 cent after 5 years of performance sled engine building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobman13 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 well, i dont have a fancy tool as of yet. but i will be splitting the cases and removing the crank.... so they normally slide out after circlips eh? im probley gonna just beat them out ill jam a piece of weed against teh side of the rod (doesnt really matter anyway it needs new rod bearings)much obliged, its getting light out gotta go to sleep before the sun cracks the surface..... graveyard shift is great eh'? Yeah Graveyard Great, I sugest try soaking it in somthing like PB blaster or WD40 and let it soak in, I also had similare issues I had to use a brass punch and gently persuade it while supporting the Rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lepew Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 A little carbon will cause the wristpin to be tight when you try to pull it out. I encounter this all the time. I keep a threaded rod with some washers and nuts in my toolbox to pull the pins. Use a 1/4 inch threaded rod, a washer with a dia. slighty smaller than the wrist pin bore , large 3/8 drive deep socket that the wrist pin will go inside of, another washer and two nuts. The rod goes thru the wrist pin and put the washer a nut on the end. Slide the socket over the rod against the piston and put the other washer and nut on the end of the rod. Tighten the nut and the wristpin will be pulled out of the piston into the bore of the socket. Pretty much a poormans wrist pin puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 If your splitting the cases, just wait till the crank is out. Lay the piston on its side and drive out the wrist pin. Waiting till the crank is out will help insure that you don't damage the rod. That way the crank can be rebuilt or used as a core or whatever. SP pistons will not go down thru the top case if i remember correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthemail Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 got em! thanks alot! im gonna have to build me one of them pullers someday tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 pistons will not go down thru the top case if i remember correctly. That sucks. Now that you mention it, I think you may be correct! Oh well, could have been a good idea if it would have worked, lol! SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 haha yeah the crank will not come out with pistons still hooked to it. A 1/4 drive 10mm socket and like a 2oz hammer works perfect for this, you don't need any special tool. Now that i think about it i have more come apart like this than i do when they just slide out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shee rips Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 (edited) mine were always easy on the dirtbike, but on the banshee i used a 3/8 extension, and supported the piston with my hand so it wouldnt put any sideways force on the rod, and tapped it out. the extension worked perfectly as a punch. i was just very careful to make sure that i didnt let the force get transferred to the rod. took some coordination to hold the piston and extension in one hand and hammer it , but it worked good twice now. Edited February 5, 2008 by shee rips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.