Kevin M Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 I am running a RS 200w stator with a RS upgraded flywheel and voltage regulator with 2 (35w) + 2 (50w) Trail Tech lights. I have had the same problem twice now. Install everything, bike runs great, lights work fine. Go for a ride.....lights stop working. Measure the voltage output directly out of the stator (yellow wire) and I get about 1.28 volts.... According to RS, it should be in the 20-40 volt range at full thottle. When I remove the stator, it looks like it got pretty hot. The whole stator is covered in a brown-ish color substance..... I think this is what is preventing it from out-putting the correct voltage. The brown substance is acting as an insulator or something.... Wondering if there is something I may be overlooking, or if any of you have experienced similiar issues, and what you may have done to correct it. I've read all the threads on RS for the banshee, but I don't see anything with this detail. I am on my second stator now. Shipping it back tomorrow for a replacement. The people at RS have been very helpful and have given me replacements, but I would like to get to the root of the problem to prevent it from happening again. I don't like spending hundreds on a lighting setup and having the lights not work..... Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 I am running a RS 200w stator with a RS upgraded flywheel and voltage regulator with 2 (35w) + 2 (50w) Trail Tech lights. I have had the same problem twice now. Install everything, bike runs great, lights work fine. Go for a ride.....lights stop working. Measure the voltage output directly out of the stator (yellow wire) and I get about 1.28 volts.... According to RS, it should be in the 20-40 volt range at full thottle. When I remove the stator, it looks like it got pretty hot. The whole stator is covered in a brown-ish color substance..... I think this is what is preventing it from out-putting the correct voltage. The brown substance is acting as an insulator or something.... Wondering if there is something I may be overlooking, or if any of you have experienced similiar issues, and what you may have done to correct it. I've read all the threads on RS for the banshee, but I don't see anything with this detail. I am on my second stator now. Shipping it back tomorrow for a replacement. The people at RS have been very helpful and have given me replacements, but I would like to get to the root of the problem to prevent it from happening again. I don't like spending hundreds on a lighting setup and having the lights not work..... Any help is appreciated. Have you checked your voltage regulator? It might be bad, causing your problems. Also, are you floating the ground on the stator and doing the DC conversion, or just trying to run more lights off the stock stator and switch and stock wiring harness?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 need to check the voltage regulator. When you check the voltage out of the stator unhook the yellow wire completely from the harness and check it. It will only put out aroun 11.5-14 volts ac at 6k rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted January 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 Have you checked your voltage regulator? It might be bad, causing your problems. Also, are you floating the ground on the stator and doing the DC conversion, or just trying to run more lights off the stock stator and switch and stock wiring harness?? I am just running more lights on my current stock wiring harness. No DC conversion. Just 4 Trail Tech lights 2(35) and 2 (50) watts. I haven't checked my voltage regulator. Don't I need voltage coming out of the stator to test if the regulator is working, or is there another way to test the regulator? I guess I could swap in my stock one to see if there is a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 You are also over-loading the ratings for the stock switch and harness. Might have a melted wire in there somewhere. I'd at least run your two bigger lights on their own switch. The stock light switch is set up to handle the factory two 35watt bulbs and you've got 170watts going through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 Why dont you just float the ground and convert to a DC system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted January 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 You are also over-loading the ratings for the stock switch and harness. Might have a melted wire in there somewhere. I'd at least run your two bigger lights on their own switch. The stock light switch is set up to handle the factory two 35watt bulbs and you've got 170watts going through it. Thanks for the tip. I will take a closer look at my harness..... Any recommendations on a switch to use for the bigger lights? What more would I need for a DC conversion....a battery and a rectifier? I don't want to spend a ton more money..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsgetthisdone Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 Thanks for the tip. I will take a closer look at my harness..... Any recommendations on a switch to use for the bigger lights? What more would I need for a DC conversion....a battery and a rectifier? I don't want to spend a ton more money..... use a regular switch, but use a relay so all of the power isn't going thru the switch.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I used to run 2 75 watt bulbs off the factory switch and never had a problem. I think all your lights is stressing the stator, @ 170 watts you are certainly pushing it.....200 Watts is peak at high RPM, so most of the time your probably straining the stator. I had much better luck with running only 2 50 watt ligths off the stator, and switching to mroe efficient halogen bulbs than came with my lights. The brown stuff is probably nothign more than the protective coating getting hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I used to run 2 75 watt bulbs off the factory switch and never had a problem. I think all your lights is stressing the stator, @ 170 watts you are certainly pushing it.....200 Watts is peak at high RPM, so most of the time your probably straining the stator. I had much better luck with running only 2 50 watt ligths off the stator, and switching to mroe efficient halogen bulbs than came with my lights. The brown stuff is probably nothign more than the protective coating getting hot. What about installing a fuse just out of the stator? That way it would blow the fuse instead of killing the stator? If so, what size should I use...15 volts? Maybe this does the same as a relay? I don't have any experience with relays...what do they do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 You need to back off the wattage on the system and make sure your run an rs voltage regulator. Then typically to keep the harness cool and from melting to other wires, you run it seperate from the main harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polkaudio Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I'd just use the stock switch to activate a relay or two. But you really should convert to an AC system, add a battery as other replies have stated. I added a 9" HID to my shee. Bought the RS 300W stator with floated ground, Rectifier Reg. A buddy made a battery box and I installed it where the coolant overflow was. It works real nice. I'm also adding a Trail Tech 50W flood for around camps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 The a/c output at idle wont keep a relay latched, you have to have a battery and a dc conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 (edited) I'd just use the stock switch to activate a relay or two. But you really should convert to an AC system, add a battery as other replies have stated. I added a 9" HID to my shee. Bought the RS 300W stator with floated ground, Rectifier Reg. A buddy made a battery box and I installed it where the coolant overflow was. It works real nice. I'm also adding a Trail Tech 50W flood for around camps. banshee comes 12v AC and RS does not make a 300 watt stator. once you convert to DC you will onyl have about 150 watts max due to the conversion and rectifier taking some power away but it's best event hen to stay under that total or you will be drain your battery. What about installing a fuse just out of the stator? That way it would blow the fuse instead of killing the stator? If so, what size should I use...15 volts?Maybe this does the same as a relay? I don't have any experience with relays...what do they do? Fuses are usualy rated in amps, the volt rating is for the votlage range the manufactures feels it is safe to use on. not sure you will be able to find a 12v AC fuse or ther about the stator puts out more than 12v...And this would do nothign more than prevent fire more than likely the switch would already be toast by the time the fuse blows... Relays w uld work for DC but may or may not be more expensive than just running seperate wires, and switches which might be useful, unless you always want all 4 lights on, then relays would be the way to go. You could also set on to turn on 2 lights on low and tadd the other 2 on high. A Relay has a sense circuit that detects on and off, and then can safely powereach light if it is rated to do so. So basicaly it takes the load off your switch and puts it on the relay instead. Edited February 1, 2008 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 banshee comes 12v AC and RS does not make a 300 watt stator. once you convert to DC you will onyl have about 150 watts max due to the conversion and rectifier taking some power away but it's best event hen to stay under that total or you will be drain your battery. Fuses are usualy rated in amps, the volt rating is for the votlage range the manufactures feels it is safe to use on. not sure you will be able to find a 12v AC fuse or ther about the stator puts out more than 12v...And this would do nothign more than prevent fire more than likely the switch would already be toast by the time the fuse blows... Relays w uld work for DC but may or may not be more expensive than just running seperate wires, and switches which might be useful, unless you always want all 4 lights on, then relays would be the way to go. You could also set on to turn on 2 lights on low and tadd the other 2 on high. A Relay has a sense circuit that detects on and off, and then can safely powereach light if it is rated to do so. So basicaly it takes the load off your switch and puts it on the relay instead. Thanks! I just picked up 2 relays and a new switch. I am going to run 1 relay for each set of lights to take the load of my switch...as you said. Also, I will upgrade my lighting wire to a 12 gauge wire connected to the output on the stator, to the relays, and the new switch. Hopefully this will prevent me from frying another stator.....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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