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Hello all.

 

I hope some of you can help me out.

 

I just bought an 06 Banshee (my third shee). My stepdad used to do all the work on my rides, but I moved away and want to start working on them myself. Now I have done research only to find I get more confused the more I find out.

 

I've got a Pro Designs coolhead. I've read about the "domes" and don't know what size I've got. The cylinders are bored .040 over. The compression was at 129, but I'm at 3500 ft. I have some K&N filters.

 

Here are my questions:

 

1) I've got Toomey T-6 pipes. I've read that T-5's are better. Why?

 

2) I want to get a set of carbs, but what size? 35mm? 36? I'm going to ride mostly at the coast dunes, but sometimes we go to a place called Christmas Valley and ride those dunes (over 5,000 ft above sea level). I had the opportunity to buy a Trinity 2-1 with Boyesen reeds for 350, but didn't do it because I want mostly top end power.

 

3) I want to get reeds as well. Here, I'm lost except I know they help with throttle response.

 

4) Jetting suggestions for the 3 above mentioned altitudes :biggrin:

 

5) Any other suggestions for some more reliable power?

 

Thanks to all in advance!

 

Eric

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I'm going to attempt to help, one by one. If I don't answer a question, let me know.

 

First off...T6 pipes are awesome. They do not work as well with aggressively ported motors as the T5s do.

Since your motor is stock, leave them on. They will do fine. If you ever decide to get an aggressive port job, run them anyways. if you DON'T like how they perform, then get another set of pipes. Many people will tell you T5s for ported motors, T6 for stock motors...when in reality they've never run one or the other on different motor combos.

 

I think you're underpaddled....usually 8 to 9 paddle haulers for stock bolt on bikes.

 

Until you get your motor ported, keep the stock carbs or pickup some 28 or 30mm PWK carbs. Do NOT buy huge carbs for a stock port bike, and keep in mind once you get it ported and go with large carbs, you'll lose some bottom end.

 

A 1 into 2 carb/intake setup is nice...but, you lose top end.

 

At 3500 feet, I'd try this jetting.

310 mains, stock pilots, clip in the middle or one toward the blunt end if it's boggy in the middle RPMs.

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um 35,36 mm carbs would be way way to big without porting work done on your cylinders. T5,s T6,s are both good pipes more people like the t5,s because they are supose to be better with porting. t6,s are good for a semi stock motor i guess. they probably perfome good on either way better then stock anyway lol. to check the domes you have to take the head off and look at the # stamped on them. ther are other way to tell but you still have to take the head off. if you really want to spend the money on some new carbs get some 28mm pwk's they are a better design carb then the stock 26mm and will flow alittle more air to give you a better top end but still all around good power. my suggestions is if the motor is tight then move down a size in domes get your compression to around 145. thats a good pump gas compression, clamp them K&n on. get and adjustibale timeing plate. move it to +4. you already have pipes that are good, get some reeds. vforce 2 or 3's or maybe just some boyseen powver reeds, and if thats not enough power then get your cyilenders ported. but from what iv read you should bump you compression up again you may have good dome but you motor is wore out or you may have a tight motor and a high cc dome. but get your comp up to around 145, and you will fell the difference with reeds and a timeing plate

Edited by yamaha04
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i agree with daj. no bigger than keihin 30mm pwk. as for reeds go with v force 3's. youll prolly have to buy some intakes as well. id recommend getting ahold of jeff @ FAST. 785-364-5325 or PM him on here at FASTOYS. he can get you set up with all the parts you need at great prices. plus, hes an awsome guy to deal with.

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most people don't get all they can out of the stock carbs.

i had stockers on my last motor and it ran really well.

i wouldn't waste the money on carbs till you are ready for some

badass porting.

 

if you got the $$ to burn, get the reeds like loco said, it will make a diff.

and get sum better paddles like dave said. maybe look into suspension

mods to hook it up and handle better.

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Hey thanks for answering.

 

I'll eventually get the head ported, so maybe I'll buy the carbs at the same time.

 

I know...I need some more paddles...I took the 6 paddles off my YFZ450.

 

So, for now I'll get some reeds (possibly intakes) and a timing plate and some 9 paddle extremes. I'll try calling the dude I bought the bike from to ask him what domes are on...however...the compression should go up at sea level, right? He set it up for sea level, and said it'll go up about 15 psi. Is this true? The cylinder bore only has about an hour on it, with new Wiseco pistons, so I wouldn't think the motor would be worn.

 

Also, do you guys usually send your head out, or have somebody locally do it?

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the porting is done to the cylinders, not the head.

the only valves in that motor are the reeds right in front

of the carbs.

there are a lot of guys that say they can port cylinders in most local

cities. truth is there are a few really good builders. they are all on here.

i would only let the guys i find on here do my porting. their work is tested

by BHQ members and proven to be really good.

FAST, Passion, and Herr, are the big names that come to mind, but there are others.

just do a search on porting their names will come up.......call them and

see who you like.

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the porting is done to the cylinders, not the head.

 

Man then I'm really confused...

 

My cylinders are bored 40 over with Wiseco pistons. Is this not porting? Sorry, mainly just a rider here looking to get into the finer things. :biggrin:

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Man then I'm really confused...

 

My cylinders are bored 40 over with Wiseco pistons. Is this not porting? Sorry, mainly just a rider here looking to get into the finer things. :biggrin:

Porting includes cleaning up the intake and opening the transfers for better flow and could include boost ports (aka worm holes, finger holes). Also, and most important, adjusting the port timings. Transfer ports and exhaust ports if I am correct. Not sure if anything is done on the intake other then cleaning up the the surfaces for better flow and atomization of the fuel and maybe widening.

 

Much more to it then simply over bore! :thumbsup:

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look at "bansh-eman's" sig picture

click here

this is a little crude, but at the same time it shows how the two stroke

engine runs.

on the left hand side is the carb. look where the air/fuel charge goes into the cylinder.

some goes in the bottom and some in the top. the charge that goes in the bottom gets

transferred to the top thru the "transfer ports". after (most of) the charge in the top is burned

it goes out the exhaust port and into the pipe.

 

the only valve there is the reed valve. it opens to let the charge in and closes to keep it in.

very simply put, when a cylinder is ported, the intake, transfer, and exhaust ports

are modified to make the charge larger and flow better.

 

when a cylinder is bored over, the size of the piston (and the bore it is in) is made a little

bigger. this is usually only to refresh the topend (make the rings seal better for compression)

and generally has very little effect on performance on these small engines.

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