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Broke my banshee


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Well this is my first post here, hope you can help, here in Australia there is not as much banshee information as America..

 

I've done a search on here and found bits and pieces of information, but im getting lost in it all...

 

Here goes.... :unsure:

 

My motor let go in my banshee on saturday..

 

Have pulled it apart, its not pretty.. :banghead:

Crank, rods, pistons are damaged so time for a full rebuild... :thumbsup:

 

Now i been looking at options i am thinking of going a 5mm long rod +4mm stroker kit.. something like this example here on this ebay link

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...rksid=p3907.m32

 

Now.. First of all I dont race the bike, its just some weekend fun, consisting of some trail type riding, bit of flat track type of stuff, basicly love getting it sideways and goin pretty hard..

i have a few questions im hoping you guys can help me with.

 

Its been suggested to just get some cub cylinders instead of getting my stock ones ported to suit, do the cub cylinders come already ported to suit the 4mil stroker? no other work on them needed? what about the 5 mil longrod.. are they suited?

Doin a quick search on the net i have seen them 68mm.. 68mm would run .080 over size pistons right? would the cylinders have a rebuild or 2 left in them if i went for something like the 68mm cubs?

 

Can someone elaborate on the cool head and domes needed to run the longrod stroker.

 

Im some what limited to getting machine work done where i live here, was hoping that i could minimise the machining by just buying the correct parts...

 

 

Also what size carbs would i need to run such a set up? The stock ones with large jets wont do? would a single carby set up be better?

 

 

I have FMF fattys with powercore2 silencers, im assuming they would be up the the task?

 

Anything else people would like to add would be greatly appreciated.. such as ignition, timing and anything else needed.

 

 

Thanks in Advance :thanks:

 

Trav. :thumbsup:

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If you want to by pass waiting for replys just dial 1-785-364-5325.Thats the number to Farmandsandtoys.Or if you want a second opinion call Passionracingengines at 1-918-232-3950.Both of them post on here and both of them know their stuff to the fullest.You can also go to their websites at Farmandsandtoys.com and

Passionracingengines.com

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If you want to by pass waiting for replys just dial 1-785-364-5325.Thats the number to Farmandsandtoys.Or if you want a second opinion call Passionracingengines at 1-918-232-3950.Both of them post on here and both of them know their stuff to the fullest.You can also go to their websites at Farmandsandtoys.com and

Passionracingengines.com

 

I live in Australia ao calling them is a bit tricky.

 

I checked out their websites, so nice products at F.A.S.T :thumbsup:

 

but i really need to know exactly what i actually need and whether its suited to my riding or not also.

 

Thanks for the links though.

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honestly it doesnt really sound to me like you need cubs. if your stock cylinders arent damaged id just stick with them. also, you really dont need the 4mm crank. if you go with a 4mm crank with stock cylinders youll have to have the cylinders ported to match the stroke of the crank. thats the best way to do it. personally, i say buy a new crank, pistons, bore your cylinders if necessary.. then if you have extra money and you want more performance you can buy bigger carbs, reeds and pipes. it will be like a whole new bike. how much money are you looking to spend? that will help determine what you need to do.

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Money i guess isnt goin to be relevant me being in australia..

 

Biggest thing is i just want to do it properly, not take short cuts and i want it to make good power but also want it to last as i do give it a hard time. If it takes a little longer and costs a bit more than thats ok as long as its right.

 

 

I have the FMF fatty pipes with the powercore2 silencers, K&N filter and powerlid, running the 260 jets that came with the pipes, goes alot better than when it was stock... but i still want more :evil:

 

 

Would you suggest maybe just a longrod crank not stroker..?

 

A mate here has 5 mm long rod and he catches me (well before mine broke anyways..) he has Vforce3 reeds stock carbs k&n filter he has oversize pistons not sure what size.

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If you want to by pass waiting for replys just dial 1-785-364-5325.Thats the number to Farmandsandtoys.Or if you want a second opinion call Passionracingengines at 1-918-232-3950.Both of them post on here and both of them know their stuff to the fullest.You can also go to their websites at Farmandsandtoys.com and

Passionracingengines.com

 

id call jeff at F.A.S.T.............. save yourself alot of ?'s and just talk to a good builder. or you could p.m. him on here--FASTOYS--. HIS SHOP OPENS UP AT 10 A.M. CENTRAL TIME. jeff can tell u what would be best for what you are trying to do.

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Money i guess isnt goin to be relevant me being in australia..

 

Biggest thing is i just want to do it properly, not take short cuts and i want it to make good power but also want it to last as i do give it a hard time. If it takes a little longer and costs a bit more than thats ok as long as its right.

I have the FMF fatty pipes with the powercore2 silencers, K&N filter and powerlid, running the 260 jets that came with the pipes, goes alot better than when it was stock... but i still want more :evil:

Would you suggest maybe just a longrod crank not stroker..?

 

A mate here has 5 mm long rod and he catches me (well before mine broke anyways..) he has Vforce3 reeds stock carbs k&n filter he has oversize pistons not sure what size.

 

All you need to install the stroker is the crank, wiseco 795 pistons, stroker spacer plate(makes up for the extra 4MM extra stroke and raises ports, so i don't see why porting is needed), gaskets, torque wrench, and yamabond/hondabond to seal the case. I think that's it. good luck.

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If your not worried about money then do the 4 mill long rod stroker.

 

You will need 795 series pistons, and a cool head with stoker domes. Or you can run the spacer plate. The cool head with stroker domes is the better way to go. You really should get your cylinders ported. That really wakes up the banshee. Your stock carbs with bigger jets would be fine on a 4mill ported stock cylinder motor. You can get the port job taylored to how you ride your banshee. Trail port job, play port, dune port, or drag port job. I would probably get a dune port job because the 4 mill crank will make up for the loss of bottome end that the dune port takes away. You will gain more top end out of the deal too.

 

 

 

To run a 4mill long rod crank in a 68mm cub cylinder you use 68mm yamah blaster pistons. Banshee pistons are only avalable up to 66mm. They make cub cylinders for different cranks. If you get a stock stroke cub cylinder get the 65mm bore. That way you can run normal 65mm basnhee pistons. If you get the cub cylinder made for the 4 mill crank get the 68mm bore one that way you just run 68mm blaster pistons on a 4 mill long rod crank. With the 4 mill cylinder you dont have to machine anything or have special stroker domes in a cool head because the cylinder is made taller to accomidate the 4 mill stroke, you do need big bore domes though.

 

A cub is a drag ported cylinder. You really should run at least 35mm carbs, and CPI or Shearer Pipes. It would run ok with stock carb, and your FMF pipes but it would be way under powered for a cub, but still faster than your current non ported stock cylinders.

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