CombatTalon2 Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 Ok, got my new Ricky Stator 200w stator installed last night. Im running the Ricky Stator Aluminator dual MR16 light setup, and NO stock lights. currently i have 2 50w MR16 bulbs (total draw 100w) I used the Ricky stator regulator, and wired that all up and lights work great. I was running a guarded toggle switch but I burned that up at the dunes a while back and just wired the light to stay on constant. Question is what switch do i need to get that can handle the 200w at 12v, or how do i wire a relay for my switch and what rating does the relay need to be. I would like to be able to upgrade to full 200w lighting in the future so i don't want to limit myself by installing a relay that is not rated for 200w. Also, what AWG wiring should i be running for these lights? I tried searching, but im coming up empty. I think im running either 16 or 18 AWG right now? Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 Ok, got my new Ricky Stator 200w stator installed last night. Im running the Ricky Stator Aluminator dual MR16 light setup, and NO stock lights. currently i have 2 50w MR16 bulbs (total draw 100w) I used the Ricky stator regulator, and wired that all up and lights work great. I was running a guarded toggle switch but I burned that up at the dunes a while back and just wired the light to stay on constant. Question is what switch do i need to get that can handle the 200w at 12v, or how do i wire a relay for my switch and what rating does the relay need to be. I would like to be able to upgrade to full 200w lighting in the future so i don't want to limit myself by installing a relay that is not rated for 200w. Also, what AWG wiring should i be running for these lights? I tried searching, but im coming up empty. I think im running either 16 or 18 AWG right now? Thanks guys I=P/E I (16.6amps) = P (200 watts) / E (12volts) 18 awg would be fine SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 Ok, two things here. No 18 ga will not be fine. It would be if you ran 1 foot of it. However I am pretty sure it will be longer than a foot. I would run at least 14ga. Second, the 200w stator will not run 200watts of bulbs. At most I would run 125w with it. So a 75w and a 50w bulb. Only way you can run 200w and not have it be dimm ALL the time is by running a battery. I tried 150 watts with a rs flywheel along with my 200w stator and regulator. It was dim unless I was above about 6k rpm. It blew chunks, and it was irritating as fuck to deal with when cresting a dune at night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CombatTalon2 Posted January 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 (edited) Ok, two things here. No 18 ga will not be fine. It would be if you ran 1 foot of it. However I am pretty sure it will be longer than a foot. I would run at least 14ga. Second, the 200w stator will not run 200watts of bulbs. At most I would run 125w with it. So a 75w and a 50w bulb. Only way you can run 200w and not have it be dimm ALL the time is by running a battery. I tried 150 watts with a rs flywheel along with my 200w stator and regulator. It was dim unless I was above about 6k rpm. It blew chunks, and it was irritating as fuck to deal with when cresting a dune at night. ok, so 14AWG and what about the switch? Edited January 13, 2008 by CombatTalon2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBanshee420 Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 (edited) Wire Size for Runs up to 15 Feet Gauge --- Metric --- Amps 8 --- 8.0 --- 32-40 10 --- 5.0 --- 28-35 12 --- 3.0 --- 18-30 14 --- 2.0 --- 12-20 16 --- 1.0 --- 8-13 18 --- 0.8 --- 6-10 20 --- 0.5 --- 4-6 22 --- 0.22 --- 2-3 Edited January 13, 2008 by TurboBanshee420 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted January 13, 2008 Report Share Posted January 13, 2008 Second, the 200w stator will not run 200watts of bulbs. At most I would run 125w with it. So a 75w and a 50w bulb. Only way you can run 200w and not have it be dimm ALL the time is by running a battery. I tried 150 watts with a rs flywheel along with my 200w stator and regulator. It was dim unless I was above about 6k rpm. It blew chunks, and it was irritating as fuck to deal with when cresting a dune at night. I tried 4 35w bulbs. I does the same thing. It never really got bright above 6k rpm. It was bright when I first put the new stator on now they are dim. I also have the RS flywheel, and Regulator. It is kind of strange that it was bright at fist now they are dim. I cant get 12 volts of power with them all on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted January 14, 2008 Report Share Posted January 14, 2008 Ricky Stator switch link. If you want to run a toggle, then run one that is rated at 10-15 amps if your only going to run 125 watts of bulbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted January 14, 2008 Report Share Posted January 14, 2008 (edited) Ok, two things here. No 18 ga will not be fine. It would be if you ran 1 foot of it. However I am pretty sure it will be longer than a foot. I would run at least 14ga. Second, the 200w stator will not run 200watts of bulbs. At most I would run 125w with it. So a 75w and a 50w bulb. Only way you can run 200w and not have it be dimm ALL the time is by running a battery. I tried 150 watts with a rs flywheel along with my 200w stator and regulator. It was dim unless I was above about 6k rpm. It blew chunks, and it was irritating as fuck to deal with when cresting a dune at night. 18 awg is the min. calculated on a 7' run not 12 inches. 16 awg to be safe or if you plan to run wire around the bike a time or two, 14 is a waste and harder to deal with, especially if it is THHN wire (MTW is easiest). As far as what the stator can handle, sorry know help here.....no real world experience with different stators. Just no the numbers. Best of luck! SP Edited January 14, 2008 by spurdy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CombatTalon2 Posted January 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2008 200 watt stator just install a battery and float the graound in the stator. Then you can run your lights at full intensity all the time and the stator charges the battery. This is what I have done, only thing I will change is I will install a bigger battery to run 4 HID lights. as for the switch, you need a 10-15 amp switch and also run the biggest AWG wire you can and that will help the switch issue. I would reccomend running 12AWG wire and build a complete harness out of the AWG and trash the factory wiring. The factory wiring cannot handle the extra output and power of the bigger stator. I did end up running all new wiring for my lights. 14 AWG...overkill im sure but im happy. I got an AC switch rated for 125V and 30 Amps, so i hope im not gonna burn that switch up. works great, and should be able to add my other two lights very easily to my current setup without going over the reccomended 125 Watts. thanks guys I think i will ditch the factory headlight/kill switch for something similar to the ricky stator setup, or just go with a dirt bike kill switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted January 14, 2008 Report Share Posted January 14, 2008 ok, heres the deal. I know exactly what needs to be done with a stock harness. I have only been providing snippets of info till now. The stock harness wiring will probably eventually get melted with a 200w stator, and its 16ga wire (contrary to someones 18ga wire belief on here). The harness needs re-ran with at least 14ga wire, and it needs to be ran seperate of the stock harness. That way if it does melt, it doesn't make the bike run like shit cause it wont melt itself to any ignition stuff. You should also hook the voltage regulator to the wiring after the switch, so its only working when the lights are on. You should try to use an aftermarket switch, as the factory one doesn't do so well with regulated voltage being drawn through it. This will keep your hanress cool, intact, and working ok. Run 125w of lights, and that will be an optimal brightness. Now, if you want to do a battery or a capacitor with hid's let me know. I have done it, and its not hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajabanshee Posted January 14, 2008 Report Share Posted January 14, 2008 If you want to run halogens I would recommend running the electorsports stator. It's a dual output stator with a least 125watts per output. I used to run two 100watt Fuegos no problem with that stator. They would light up to full brightness as soon as you hit the gas. I used the factory regulator for one light and added a second regulator other light. This season I switched over to twin baja designs Fuego hids and went with Rickystator single output so I would only have to run one reg and battery. I actually had the rickystator rewound to put out more power. I am extremely happy with this new setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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