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Dead Cyclinder?


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Alrighty here is my list of mods... T5's, Cool head w/17cc domes, vforce 3 reeds, boostbottle?? and unifilter, Still have stock carbs w/310 mains, middle clip on the needle,... Compression is 160 and 161 and holds nicely bore is .020 over and looks pretty fresh.. I put all new gaskets in rebuilt both carburators, replaced the entire ignition(stator,coil.CDI,and flywheel) and my finally my problem is i have a dead cyclinder.. Choke side cyclinder is dead i know its getting fuel and has a strong spark(tried switching plug wires, no change)... The bike fires in one kick but the one cyclinder or pipe doesnt get warm like its just not firing, there is not consistant pop through the pipe or when you place your hand behind muffler and rev all you get is a fuel and oil covered hand with no pressure behind it.... so basically iv'e tried everything i could think of and now i'm lost....

Edited by blkshee199
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Choke crossover tube between carbs? :shrug:

 

 

Yes and Yes the tube is new and in place, the carbs were cleaned like 4 times now, also performed a leak down test and both were the same and good ??? the only thing ive heard is a cracked cycllinder could possibly be my culprit but i would think i would see it somewhere else like bubbles in the radiator??

Edited by blkshee199
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Alrighty here is my list of mods... T5's, Cool head w/17cc domes, vforce 3 reeds, boostbottle?? and unifilter, Still have stock carbs w/310 mains, middle clip on the needle,... Compression is 160 and 161 and holds nicely bore is .020 over and looks pretty fresh.. I put all new gaskets in rebuilt both carburators, replaced the entire ignition(stator,coil.CDI,and flywheel) and my finally my problem is i have a dead cyclinder.. Choke side cyclinder is dead i know its getting fuel and has a strong spark(tried switching plug wires, no change)... The bike fires in one kick but the one cyclinder or pipe doesnt get warm like its just not firing, there is not consistant pop through the pipe or when you place your hand behind muffler and rev all you get is a fuel and oil covered hand with no pressure behind it.... so basically iv'e tried everything i could think of and now i'm lost....

 

Something isn't right...

Unless you're above 4500 to 5000 feet of elevation, 160 PSI on 17cc domes is way low, like 30 PSI off at or near sea level...

 

compression should hold, there is a check valve in any compression tester, without that, the tester is no good.

I would re-cc the domes, makes sure they are in fact 17cc. Check squish. then try a different, name brand quality compression tester.

 

Did you set the pickup coil gap correctly. When you say you replaced the ignition, are these brand new parts, or new to you but used parts.

 

The domes and compression doesn't add up....

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Something isn't right...

Unless you're above 4500 to 5000 feet of elevation, 160 PSI on 17cc domes is way low, like 30 PSI off at or near sea level...

 

compression should hold, there is a check valve in any compression tester, without that, the tester is no good.

I would re-cc the domes, makes sure they are in fact 17cc. Check squish. then try a different, name brand quality compression tester.

 

Did you set the pickup coil gap correctly. When you say you replaced the ignition, are these brand new parts, or new to you but used parts.

 

The domes and compression doesn't add up....

 

 

No pretty sure cincy isn't that high elevation wise(683ft)... its a cool head and has 17cc stamped right on it so pretty sure thats right used all snap on testers so not the cheap stuff there... not really sure how to cheak squish? all i did was replace all the seals in the cool head and used my snap on torgue wrench to bolt um down using proper pattern and torque... when i had the head off everything looked really good like pistons were like new and i can still see the hatch marks in the sleeves from honing.. so maybe it hasn'y seated up yet maybe i havn't really ran the thing at all since i got it from the ignition being bad and yes it was all brand new i usd a business card to set the clearence and what gets me is the other side runs clean and seemingly strong??

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hey man i would try a new set of plugs.. it could be as simple as a bad plug.. spark plugs will still spark outside the cylinder when they are bad, but when they are in the motor under compression they will not fire.. i would try that since u are getting compression and fuel.. it may just be that easy.. let us know

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hey man i would try a new set of plugs.. it could be as simple as a bad plug.. spark plugs will still spark outside the cylinder when they are bad, but when they are in the motor under compression they will not fire.. i would try that since u are getting compression and fuel.. it may just be that easy.. let us know

 

 

tried that too lol even tried switching sides after running them no change

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No pretty sure cincy isn't that high elevation wise(683ft)... its a cool head and has 17cc stamped right on it so pretty sure thats right used all snap on testers so not the cheap stuff there... not really sure how to cheak squish? all i did was replace all the seals in the cool head and used my snap on torgue wrench to bolt um down using proper pattern and torque... when i had the head off everything looked really good like pistons were like new and i can still see the hatch marks in the sleeves from honing.. so maybe it hasn'y seated up yet maybe i havn't really ran the thing at all since i got it from the ignition being bad and yes it was all brand new i usd a business card to set the clearence and what gets me is the other side runs clean and seemingly strong??

 

Here's why I think something else is wrong, here's an approxamate compression chart from Dave Noss, maker of the cool head.

 

It doesn't go to 17cc, but at 18cc domes, between sea level and 1000 feet, it should be mid 180's with 18cc domes.

Add 10 to 12 PSI for 17cc domes. So...you should be WAY more than 160ish....

Here's the spec sheet on them from NOSS, scroll down:

http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

 

That being said...

 

Seating the rings won't cause you to jump 30 to 40 PSI...

 

Can you answer my other question? Are all the ignition components you listed new (Stator, coil, CDI and flywheel) or are they used?

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In addition:

 

Does the Snap on compression gauge thread into the cylinder head as far as your spark plug?

In other words, do they have the same reach? The Snap On tester I use is about half the depth of a spark plug, so I add about 10 PSI to that, since that area is about 1cc larger, give or take, than a spark plug threaded in.

 

Are all the TORS properly removed, taped off, no grounding out wires, etc?

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In addition:

 

Does the Snap on compression gauge thread into the cylinder head as far as your spark plug?

In other words, do they have the same reach? The Snap On tester I use is about half the depth of a spark plug, so I add about 10 PSI to that, since that area is about 1cc larger, give or take, than a spark plug threaded in.

 

Are all the TORS properly removed, taped off, no grounding out wires, etc?

 

yes the ignition componets are all BRAND NEW the tors are removed with a VITO's kit the only thing that has been bypassed is the key switch which was spliced soldered and shrink tubed the tors crap was all removed.. um its actually pretty close to the standard length as far threads go maybe a thread or 2 difference.. im starting to think someone did some shoddy machine work and couldn't get it to run... i picked this thing up for 600 bucks..

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I looked at that RM Stator site, their stators look the exact same as the ones from Ricky Stator...

If you can...get a used OEM stator. I always keep a spare stator in my tool box, my first RS Stator went bad in less than a year, I'm on a warrantied Stator now...

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