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Installed timing plate


richybanshee

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This weekend I installed the Ricky Stator timing plate. Before installing it my jetting was 320 mains, needle in 2nd click position, 25 pilot. (CPI pipes, no airbox lid with k&N filter, cool head with 20cc domes).

 

The instructions said that I had to place the pickup coil as closer as I could to the pulser (no less than .020). I did everything by the book.

 

The first thing was ... I did not notice an improvement and for some reason it felt like it was getting hot. So I bump the main jet from 320 to 340 and the jet needle to the third clip position. Now, with this jetting the bike pulls like a bull. It revs faster and in 6th gear it keeps pulling. I did notice that at 1/8 - 1/4 throttle it started to rev by it self. So I closed the airscrew all the way in. I may have to get me some 30 pilots. Also will try the jet needle in the 4rth clip position to see if there is an improvement and 1/8-1/4 throttle gets better.

 

 

I ride like at 700 feet over sea level and temperatures are like 77- 89 F.

I really recomend this mod. I noticed that with the CPI pipes this mod works extremely well. Will try to get it to a dyno to see how much power it has. Probably something between 47-52 HP.

 

I will like to know if you guys had to jet the bike a few sizes bigger because of advanced timing?

I Thought that the 320 mains and/or 330 could be the top, but it seems I was wrong.

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Not to be a jerk, but good luck getting much more than 42 to 44 HP out of a stock port banshee...especially with an airbox still.

 

30 pilots will be too big, what is your compression at? It is possible it's running lean and/or starting to detonate. Adding timing will only make deto worse...check compression, maybe throw some race/pump fuel in there.

 

If you turned the air screws all the way in, that would mean smaller than stock pilots, NOT larger ones.

 

Keep the pilots stock, keep the clip in the middle position (try not to change two jetting circuits at the same time, the needle and main blend together after about 5/8th throttle...)

 

Put 300 mains back in. The bike probably will run a little warmer, advancing timing and/or upping compression will make a bike run a bit hotter.

 

Then do a plug chop... 30 pilots won't help...

 

Also, you mean you got the air gap/pickup less than .020, not more than...right?

 

I set mine .015 to .018...close the better....

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Now .. I'm confused :confused:

 

I thought I reed somewhere that If I had to turn the air screws all the way in I had to put a bigger pilot.

I had 320 mains and the bike did not pull as I had spected so I set the main 2 sizes bigger to ckeck. Did check the jetting with new plugs and even though I did not chop the sparkplug I notice a small chocolate ring on the base. This was only with the mains. Still need to check the needle. To be save I set it a little richer and it worked good.

 

Note:

I first setted the mains and tested. Then setted the needle and tested again.

 

The instructions of the stator plate said that I had to set the pickup coil as close as possible without going under .020, so i did it. It is exactly .020. Stock had a bigger gap.

 

I have a NOSS cool head with 20 cc dome and 150 psi of compression.

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Now .. I'm confused :confused:

 

I thought I reed somewhere that If I had to turn the air screws all the way in I had to put a bigger pilot.

I had 320 mains and the bike did not pull as I had spected so I set the main 2 sizes bigger to ckeck. Did check the jetting with new plugs and even though I did not chop the sparkplug I notice a small chocolate ring on the base. This was only with the mains. Still need to check the needle. To be save I set it a little richer and it worked good.

 

Note:

I first setted the mains and tested. Then setted the needle and tested again.

 

The instructions of the stator plate said that I had to set the pickup coil as close as possible without going under .020, so i did it. It is exactly .020. Stock had a bigger gap.

 

I have a NOSS cool head with 20 cc dome and 150 psi of compression.

Airscrews...

 

Warm up the bike and set the idle slightly higher than normal. Seat the airscrews and then turn out 1/4 turn each. Let the bike set for 20-30 seconds to stabilize and repeat. The idle should increase as you turn the air screws out.

 

If the highest idle occurs:

with the airscrews less than 1.0 turns out from seated, bigger pilot is needed.

with the airscrews more than 2.0 turns out from seated, smaller pilot is needed.

 

Ideally, you want the highest idle between 1 and 2 turns out...some people may use different ranges... :cool:

 

EDIT: Beat me to it dajo... :thumbsup:

Edited by BellicoseBanshee
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Airscrews...

 

Warm up the bike and set the idle slightly higher than normal. Seat the airscrews and then turn out 1/4 turn each. Let the bike set for 20-30 seconds to stabilize and repeat. The idle should increase as you turn the air screws out.

 

If the highest idle occurs:

with the airscrews less than 1.0 turns out from seated, bigger pilot is needed.

with the airscrews more than 2.0 turns out from seated, smaller pilot is needed.

 

Ideally, you want the highest idle between 1 and 2 turns out...some people may use different ranges... :cool:

 

EDIT: Beat me to it dajo... :thumbsup:

 

 

Oh no...I had a brain fart this morning, and you're dead on... .5 to 2.5 is usually the range of adjustment on stockers, but...like you said, less than 1 turn bigger pilots is a good idea. I'll go to 2.5 out only because it's gets so cold here, you might be good with 2.5 out when it's warm...and go down to 1.0 when it cools off...but you're dead on and thanks...

 

As he said, it's critical do adjust them when the bike is warm, and wait 20 to 30 seconds between adjustments for it to "take" and for the motor to recognize the adjustment!!

 

Thanks BB!!

 

:thanks:

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Oh no...I had a brain fart this morning, and you're dead on... .5 to 2.5 is usually the range of adjustment on stockers, but...like you said, less than 1 turn bigger pilots is a good idea. I'll go to 2.5 out only because it's gets so cold here, you might be good with 2.5 out when it's warm...and go down to 1.0 when it cools off...but you're dead on and thanks...

 

As he said, it's critical do adjust them when the bike is warm, and wait 20 to 30 seconds between adjustments for it to "take" and for the motor to recognize the adjustment!!

 

Thanks BB!!

 

:thanks:

I was quite confident you just had it bass-ackwards... :thumbsup:

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