jbooker82 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Well i just put a set of Kehin 35 mm carbs and didn't use on of your fancy carb sync tool and it runs just fine the jetting i perfect. saved me $50 If you do not sync your carbs why not just put a thumb throttle on each side of the bars. Have one for each carb, that way you can run them independently. Then these people get on here and ask. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Over and over and agian and again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 If you do not sync your carbs why not just put a thumb throttle on each side of the bars. Have one for each carb, that way you can run them independently. Then these people get on here and ask. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Why is one plug darker than the other. Why does one side smoke more than the other. Why does one pipe get hotter than the other. Why does one pipe sound louder than the other. Why does one side keep fouling out. Over and over and agian and again. I think those are also the same people that put spoke auto wheels on their bikes or atleast think it's cool to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 (edited) If you make sure that the idle is set identical for both carbs (not hard if you have the right tools to measure with) then syncing the carbs is really simple. Listen when the carbs drop, if you can hear 2 distinct clicks from the slides hitting the stop, they aren't synced. When you hear one click, they both hit at the same time, and your carbs are now in sync. If you can't hear it well, take a screwdriver, put it on the crossover tube and put your ear to the handle. For you guys running pods, go for it. I still run an airbox though, and I have yet to be able to take it off or put it back on without knocking the carbs out of sync ever so slightly. That makes the tool useless for me. Edited October 25, 2007 by dawarriorman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Take the airbox off to use it. Then put it back on. Just because they're slamming back down in sync does NOT mean they are being opened in sync or idle in sync.... I could very easily make one slide a 1/8" higher than the other and adjust the cable to where they both hit the idle screw at the same time closing them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 (edited) Take the airbox off to use it. Then put it back on.Just because they're slamming back down in sync does NOT mean they are being opened in sync or idle in sync.... I could very easily make one slide a 1/8" higher than the other and adjust the cable to where they both hit the idle screw at the same time closing them... Re read my post slowly (I specifically adressed them starting off at different heights). They start off at the same height (which is what I measured down to the thousandth). If they open at the same time, they close at the same time, then they are in sync. And putting the airbox back on knocks them out of sync everytime. I can hear it. Edited October 25, 2007 by dawarriorman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 I read your post... But I respectfully disagree... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 (edited) Ok, well explain why you don't think it works then. I know you guys don't want to have wasted money on that tool. I took a set of 1/4" wide feeler guages. I set the idle with the quad running. Took the airbox off. Measured the height from the bottom of the slide to the carb. Averaged the 2, then set the idle screw for both carbs so they both have that same measurement (by averaging the 2 measurements, I kept the same idle speed). Now they both are starting off the exact same. Now I adjust the tops of the carbs until they hit at the same time, which can only happen if they hang in the air at the same place. They are synced. Edited October 25, 2007 by dawarriorman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 I'll explain as soon as you explain how putting an airbox on changes the sync of a carb.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 (edited) I have no clue how, but it does. My guess would be the shitty carb tops I have. If you grab the throttle cables and just jerk them around, that will generally do it. So probably me jerking the carbs around to get the box back into place and the boots back on. Edited October 25, 2007 by dawarriorman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Ok...fair enough. What you're failing to realize is sloppy machining tolerances for said carbs. Unless you make a complete model of the whole carb slide, carb body, etc, and measure everything, you're doing just that...guessing. Now I've done that for YEARS...and I'm not saying you can't get them close. Sure you can. You'd be surprised how far you can be off...even using this method very carefully.... Whereas with a vacuum meter there is no guess work. It's even or it's not...period. You're taking into consideration both carbs are identical in specs...machine/tolerance wise. I can assure you in mass production as they are, they are different. NOT by a ton, but they are. However, proper vacuum through each is the way to go...that way you know they are pulling the same fuel/air in, you're not relying on sight/sound. I can give you this analogy... If you're using a micrometer and your eyes and ears to sync these, that's like a machinist using a tape measure from home depot to do his job. It all depends on if "close enough" is good enough for you...when getting it dead on balls accurate is so easy to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 It all depends on if "close enough" is good enough for you...when getting it dead on balls accurate is so easy to do... Exactly...Im not racing, I don't care if theres an extra .5 hp to be found if it costs me $50 - $100 bucks, whatever those things cost. I could just buy a set of turf tamers that are lbs lighter per tire than my holeshots, and put more hp to the ground. As far as tolerances go, yeah I had thought about that, but I ignored it on purpose (I was wondering if that was what you were thinking). If you start getting picky like that you can just keep going. Your filters aren't going to have the exact same air flow, they probably won't have the exact same air pressure or temp around them. They won't be oiled the same or perfectly even, which will change the airflow through them. Once they get dirty that will magnify their differences. If you use a 2 into 1 adapter, well then you've got to hope its machined right, or it won't flow the same into each carb. If I were drag racing, then sure, Id buy it, and use it. Hell, if I even rode with any quads that were a challenge to me I might. But when Im out riding for days at a time, they won't stay in perfect sync. So I won't bother. To each his own though. :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knelson Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 I use a vaccummate (marine rechargable) http://www.vacuummate.com/ , I tune allot of 4 and six carb engine's and have found this tool very, very valuable. On my banshee's, ones a trail rider with a stock air box (K&N), other is a 4 mil with pod filters, all I do is pull the boost bottle and plug leads into the holoes. This allows you to tune the carbs quickly, accurately, and you leave the filters on the carbs. I can sync a set of banshee carbs in less than 5 mins with this tool, you would be hard pressed to tune a pair of carb's by ear and sight, no matter how much experience you have, you can get close, but I can set them perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxMeltIcexX Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Like I said, people will disagree with me. I might be a stubborn person not getting one, I just have always done it this way and I could see if people really arn't hands on with carbs thats another thing. On the other hand alot of people know carbs very well and still use them, which is awesome, but alot of those people - including dajo are trying to push every little pony out of their motors. I love HP, dont get me wrong, and I probably will get one of these tools in the future because of how so many people love them (and when i catch the bug everyone else is getting). But just to clarify I feel it was wrong for me to say they were junk since I had never used them, just shows how stubborn I can be. You can all make fun of me when I order my tool in the future... :biggrin: But for now i'll be spankin 450s and have a grin ear to ear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 i guess ill play devils advocate once again ice... i dont try squeezing every pony ou that i can... as a matter of fact i was just talking about this the other day when i was tossing the idea of running oof pipes, but i couldnt justify the extra headache for the 2-3 hp, and like i told a few guys, if i was worried about pulling every couple stray hp id have got straight cuts and had the cses matched and pistons matched and going to 39 carbs on alky.. but im not. however i would never not run my bike without the carbs bing synced. its just the right thing to do. where your a weekend warrior or a hardcore racer. it not only helps get the max power delivery to the motor but it will help sustain the life of the motor. anyone with in thier right minds would want that. its either a 50 dollar tool now for a 250 dollar topend prematurely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxMeltIcexX Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 I've had my banshee since 96, only 3 rebuilds in its lifetime (When I say rebuilds, I mean one time honing, a crank seal going bad and replacing those cylinders with a new set of ported cylinders). Just lucky i guess But then again all i ride is dunes and thats only 4 times max a year.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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