ToomeySheeLE Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 (edited) Hey there.. My mods are as follows: F.A.S.T Dune Ported 4mm. final bore CPI Small bore Inframes modded domes kicking 150psi I was running duel 35pwks and recently took them off as my bike wasn't a whole lot more impressive that a stock stroke, stock port, T-5 running banshee with similar compression. I was thinking Jeffs dune port is way over rated or my bike might have been "over carbed" because the only real noticable difference was at WOT, both bikes are geared the same. With the 35's it seemed to be jetted quite close and no sputtering or cutting out with the 35's. So.. I threw my 28pwks and smaller intakes on, jetted 160mains, 52 pilots and needle at the middle clip, blocked the stupid primer holes off with electrical tape (for now) what do you guys running 28's do? Anyways synched the carbs and my bike starts fairly similar as it did with the 35's needing some choke. Problem is that it cuts out bad as soon as i hammer on it.. I've been told my jetting should be close at what im at, and dont really want to take the carbs on and off 15 times to get it just a bit better.. Any help would be awesome.. Thanks Brad Edited October 18, 2007 by ToomeySheeLE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 What was your jetting with the PWK35's ? I am running PWK33's Patriot Racing 4mill Drag ported 66mm bore (400cc's) with toomeys now. (CPI's are on there way) Pilot jet 45 Needle CEL on the middle clip Main jet 155 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 19, 2007 Report Share Posted October 19, 2007 something is not right..that motor should rip. i can tell you that jeffs motors run strong, so im gonna say that a problem on his end is not happening. also, you should be running those 35's. 28's are NOT enough carb for that 4mm motor, or any 4mm motor for that matter. how did you check the difference in power between 2 bikes? ride one then jump on the other? or did you drga race them? ill guarantee you that your 4mm will flat out spank any stock stroke, stock port banshee. your jetting in the 35's should be right around 160 main and 45 pilot. what air filter setup are you using by the way? if you have a problem, you know you can always call jeff. he built your motor and would be happy to give you some insight on what thew problem is.. whats your timing set at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilarious Posted October 19, 2007 Report Share Posted October 19, 2007 something is not right..that motor should rip. i can tell you that jeffs motors run strong, so im gonna say that a problem on his end is not happening. also, you should be running those 35's. 28's are NOT enough carb for that 4mm motor, or any 4mm motor for that matter. how did you check the difference in power between 2 bikes? ride one then jump on the other? or did you drga race them? ill guarantee you that your 4mm will flat out spank any stock stroke, stock port banshee. your jetting in the 35's should be right around 160 main and 45 pilot. what air filter setup are you using by the way? if you have a problem, you know you can always call jeff. he built your motor and would be happy to give you some insight on what thew problem is.. whats your timing set at? I have to strongly agree. Are you getting traction? After I got my 4mm dune port, I instantly had a problem getting traction. The tires would spin like crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToomeySheeLE Posted October 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2007 Well I was running a +4 swingarm and the welds broke so i ordered a quicksand one. Now after riding around with the stock swingarm for a few weeks and running New kenda knarlys i dont feel the bike needs a longer swingarm.. and to me that alone makes me think its not making the right power.. I am running +4 for timing and have a set of K&N and a set of Uni Pods .0045 squish 35pwks were jetted pretty good 160 mains and 48 pilots needle middle clip.. Main thing i noticed about running the 35's was the way I needed to fill my bike up about twice as often as i used to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilarious Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 Well I was running a +4 swingarm and the welds broke so i ordered a quicksand one. Now after riding around with the stock swingarm for a few weeks and running New kenda knarlys i dont feel the bike needs a longer swingarm.. and to me that alone makes me think its not making the right power.. I am running +4 for timing and have a set of K&N and a set of Uni Pods .0045 squish 35pwks were jetted pretty good 160 mains and 48 pilots needle middle clip.. Main thing i noticed about running the 35's was the way I needed to fill my bike up about twice as often as i used to. Man that's weird. That's how mine is jetted and it will lift the front end with the +4 swing arm and it feels like I shoulda went with a longer swing arm. Mine will drink the fuel too, compared to when it was stock but its night and day difference from when it was stock. What have you decided? Have you talked to Jeff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BaNsHeE Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 Hey man your definately not over carbed.Round here 4 and 5mm Stock cylinders run 36-38mm Carbs And are right on the spot.Talk to your builder and see whats up.But I really do feel some people do over exagerate the amount of power a 4mm Stock Cylinder makes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilarious Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 But I really do feel some people do over exagerate the amount of power a 4mm Stock Cylinder makes. Not really sure whom you are directing that at but, mine sure makes a helluva lot more power over a stock ported, stock stroke, tuned and piped banshee. And thats bottom all the way to the top end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BaNsHeE Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 Not really sure whom you are directing that at but, mine sure makes a helluva lotmore power over a stock ported, stock stroke, tuned and piped banshee. And thats bottom all the way to the top end. Im not directing it at you.4mm Stock cylinders are good fast motors but theres more to having a fast motor than just droping a 4mm crank and porting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToomeySheeLE Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 Well I decided to put my 35's back on, as they were jetted way better than my 28's... didn't really want to put it away for the winter and have a "project" when i bring it back out.. Its funny some builder reccomend 28's with their port work for a 4mm and some 35's. Jeff told me a while back that his port job would run like a turd with 28's so that was his selling push for the 35's.. anyways its running good now, but just doesn;t have near the power i think it should.. Could i have a crankcase leak that would cause it to run good, but with less power? I rechecked my jetted and found that im running 158 mains in the 35's. by the looks of the plugs i could get away with a bit smaller main yet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burleybanshee Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 I'm running basically the same set up as you did with the 4mil. I had the 30mm oko with 155 main and a 52 pilot, t5's at 400 foot elevation. I was running the bowls dry on the 30's and switched to 35's. Did not notice a loss of power at all in the low end and gained on top. Running k&n pods with boss style intake manifold, +4 timing. Running 158 main with a 55 pilot, cel needle middle clip. No bog, crisp excel through out. On sand with +4 swinger the front end does come up but is controllable. I could not ride it and enjoy the power with a stock length swinger. Night and day difference from stock port and stroke bike that I had before. I bet if you found someone with banshee that had pipes jet and filters like yours used to be, you would walk away from the quad. Question? Did you put a new clutch in the quad? Did you change your gearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToomeySheeLE Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 (edited) Running 15-41 gearing.. Tusk clutch 1 1/2 years old... seems to work good, but could be getting worn. Im running the exact same jetting as you on the 35's and agree its nearly spot on, with CPI's. I was running a +4 swingarm in Silver lake this summer and my bike was a joke compared to other way less modified bikes.. I was blaming it on my tires and loss of traction and only hope that was my downfall.. I was running cheap GBC 20-10-10 sand devils.. On the way back home, we stopped at magic racing and i fell for a set of 22-10-9 10 paddle haulers... Hope they work out better.. Since we have an almost identical set up; what kind of Hp do you think your bikes putting out burleybanshee? Edited October 23, 2007 by ToomeySheeLE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burleybanshee Posted October 23, 2007 Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 ON a dynojet dyno and after switching to 35's, I made 69 hp and it is a conservative dyno, an I trust those numbers. I went to another shop that opened up and they are a motorcycle shop that wanted to try quads on their dyno. Got 75 horse from their dyno, but I trust the 69 power reading. You are around 70 range. I would trust a f.a.s.t. port and I would look at putting in a new clutch, the tusks are cheap enough to see if thats your problem, which it sounds like it might be. I would not recommend 10 paddle, I tryed it on mine, great out of the whole but it pulls the motor down on top end runs. If you are looking for 3-5 gear pulls/racing others I would recommend 8 paddle. Plus I can drop it in 2nd gear with my 230 pound fat ass and still pull. The 10 paddles bogged to much for 2nd gear start. If I was 140 pounds it would be a different story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 If FAST built the motor chances are you have a slipping clutch. a slipping clutch wont transfer power making it feel like youre not going anywhere. you need to check your clutch parts to see if they are worn.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 I agree... Put a FAST clutch in with 3 HD springs and 3 stockers...it won't slip. Call Jeff, inspect the rest of the clutch...make sure the basket, inner and outer hub are good. A new clutch with worn out componenets won't last long. His complete clutch, basket and a new inner/outer have lasted me 3 years now of HARD abuse. I'm replacing it after this year, just because it deserves to retire.... Depending on when you went to Silver Lake...I can tell you there are quite a few people that have twice the HP you are pushing, drag frames, etc. Simply put....your bike won't stand a chance against them. You can't compete against a 140HP alky burning drag quad with a 70 HP Duner bike... The only reason I say that is I go to Silver Lake...and a lot of the guys I ride with have BIG motors with BIG $$ in them...and they haul the mail. 10 paddles on a 10 over arm with that motor is too much paddle at Silver Lake. Go back to stock gearing, and practice launching in second. You could probably use 8 or 9 paddle haulers on 8 inch rims.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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