04titanse Posted October 13, 2007 Report Posted October 13, 2007 alright here goes.... i didnt notice any problems with the banshee before i started working on it today this is what i changed today: T5 pipes and silencers, dynojet jet kit (dynojet needle 4th clip from flat top/280 main jets/ air screw 2.5 turns out) The right side pipe is pushing a lot of exhaust out and is also popping a lot at idle and at all throttle positions. the left pipe is running and running quietly but the exhaust flow is not nearly as fast or as much. the carbs seem to opening and closing together and see to be synced ok. I switched the plug wires and they are fine, plugs are good, i also played with the air screws and that didnt change anything. runs better w/o choke and it does drive and the power is marginal. I dont know how to diagnose this one can anyone help??? any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Quote
04titanse Posted October 13, 2007 Author Report Posted October 13, 2007 also just so you know the right side pipe gets much hotter quicker than the left. the left is only warm. Quote
91banshee Posted October 13, 2007 Report Posted October 13, 2007 reeds and packing ,, the poping and craking sound can come from not enough or blown packing , and you say one pipe dosent blow as much and is not as warm as the other check your reeds and when the reed fails it will actually start sucking in instead of blowing Quote
04titanse Posted October 13, 2007 Author Report Posted October 13, 2007 ok i will check the reeds and see if that makes the exhausts even out.. Quote
ClimbAnyHill Posted October 13, 2007 Report Posted October 13, 2007 How's the plugs & compression looking on both cylinders, all ok?? Might be lean.. Quote
WALLACE84 Posted October 14, 2007 Report Posted October 14, 2007 I definatly check those reeds out. Thats almost the number one cause of poping. Also, (I know you didnt touch it when you changed the parts but) check your flywheel too. My shee started poping after I got it back together from a rebuild and it ended up being a crack in the flywheel Quote
BANSHEEMANIAC Posted October 15, 2007 Report Posted October 15, 2007 this may be a stupid question, but did you put new plugs in it? just asking because mine done the same thing, checked the plugs and they were firing, but one was not firing good enough under load.[missfiring] Quote
04titanse Posted October 19, 2007 Author Report Posted October 19, 2007 the plugs are fine. new or old they both run the same. I have yet to check the compression and try and fix this problem, work has been super busy and and shee has just been siting in the garage. I am going to try and get a couple hours in tonight. I will check the compression and pull the reeds out to see whats up there and i will check the gaps on the plugs and instal new ones. what should the gap be, i cant remember? Quote
04titanse Posted October 30, 2007 Author Report Posted October 30, 2007 alright after a little working on the banshee i have come to the conclusion that the reeds are fine, they have no crack or breaks and open and close smoothly. the plugs are fine, they dont look too lean, they actually look a little rich, but they always do. I check the silencers and they are not clogged or blocked at all. the carbs open and closeat the same time. The compression on both cylinders is between 115-120. so they are fine for a stock motor. I am very confused what should i do? anyone have any input?? I am trying to get this thing running again any help is great!!!! Quote
chevy7398 Posted October 30, 2007 Report Posted October 30, 2007 did you get the slides back in the right carbs, the angle cut should be facing the air filter Quote
04titanse Posted October 30, 2007 Author Report Posted October 30, 2007 oh wow i didn't realize that the slides were different....i did have them wrong i will change that right away. but even though that was wrong why would one cylinder run so much different that the other. Right hand cylinder pushes a lot of exhaust out and is very loud put kinda pops or back fires and the left cylinder pushes very little exhaust out and is quite and doesn't pop or make any irregular sounds. I understand that my carb slides were wrong and i will fix that but what is causing my cylinders to run diff. it ran pretty good before the pipes and jetting???? so confused Quote
04titanse Posted October 30, 2007 Author Report Posted October 30, 2007 alright chevy7398 was right on. my slides were switched and thats why is was running on one cylinder better than the other. Now they both run strong but they are both poping or sort of backfiring. i dont know what back firing on a 2stroke sounds like. It sounds more of a poping and its all the time. when idling and when giving it throttle. any idea how i should adjust my jetting or anything. Quote
chevy7398 Posted October 30, 2007 Report Posted October 30, 2007 (edited) alright chevy7398 was right on. my slides were switched and thats why is was running on one cylinder better than the other. Now they both run strong but they are both poping or sort of backfiring. i dont know what back firing on a 2stroke sounds like. It sounds more of a poping and its all the time. when idling and when giving it throttle. any idea how i should adjust my jetting or anything. list everything you have done to the bike, then we can get ya close on your jetting and your gap should be 28 to 32 Edited October 30, 2007 by chevy7398 Quote
04titanse Posted October 30, 2007 Author Report Posted October 30, 2007 the bikes motor is 100% stock. toomey t5 pipes and silencers, K&N filter with outerwear no lid, compresion 115-120 both cylinders. ricky stator adj timing plate +4 degrees timing. i have a 280 main jet with the dynojet needle on the 4th clip from the top. air screw 2.5 turns out. i will take it for a ride tommorow to see how it runs but it runs and idles but it pops a lot. could the poping be due to bad packing in the silencers? they are used. Quote
chevy7398 Posted October 30, 2007 Report Posted October 30, 2007 the bikes motor is 100% stock. toomey t5 pipes and silencers, K&N filter with outerwear no lid, compresion 115-120 both cylinders. ricky stator adj timing plate +4 degrees timing. i have a 280 main jet with the dynojet needle on the 4th clip from the top. air screw 2.5 turns out. i will take it for a ride tommorow to see how it runs but it runs and idles but it pops a lot. could the poping be due to bad packing in the silencers? they are used. very well could be the silencers, i would start at a 300 main though if your not running the lid, the needle will either end up where you got it or you might have to move it up to the third clip if its a little boggy in the midrange, but youll probally be a little lean up top with no lid and a 280, better to start a little rich then lean Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.