Before I get started, is there anything I am missing?

[John]

I have only a couple parts waiting delivery of my first series of power enhancing parts. Here is what I have sitting in front of me.

 

1. Toomey T5 Pipes and Silencers (Chrome)

2. Toomey Jet Kit

3. Toomey 2:1 Filter Kit

4. EHS Open Air Lid (Still Waiting for)

5. Cascade Polished Exhaust Hangers

6. Cascade Polished Exhaust Clamps

 

I already have a Clymers manual and some patience. Is there any gaskets I should be concerned with or seals of some variety? Also I don't have a dual carb synchronizer tool, I am not sure how it works and don't know how to operate it. Is that going to stop me from getting my bike to run optimal? I would really like to hope that everything works out for me and I don't need anything else, just figured I would ask because it seems like no one ever asks about the job before hand and I would hate to get halfway through only to realize I am missing something. Thanks in advance.

[XxMeltIcexX]

If you dont already have it, i would get the TORS removal kit aswell before the start of all this. Its not needed but you will thank urself for doing it right now. You dont need the carb sync tool unless you really dont know how a carb works. Just make sure everything is adjusted the same on both carbs. Alot of people swear by them, but whats it matter when you are WOT? Just take your time, your on your way to spending a shitload of money on this badboy.. :biggrin:

[John]

If you dont already have it, i would get the TORS removal kit aswell before the start of all this. Its not needed but you will thank urself for doing it right now. You dont need the carb sync tool unless you really dont know how a carb works. Just make sure everything is adjusted the same on both carbs. Alot of people swear by them, but whats it matter when you are WOT? Just take your time, your on your way to spending a shitload of money on this badboy.. :biggrin:

 

Ok I will add a TORS removal kit to the list as well. I am glad I don't need a carb synch tool, it just seemed like I thought it was necessary to get the bike to run right. Yea this bike is getting a grip of upgrades right now. I am looking for new wheels tires, plastics, and I am getting the rest of my YFZ front end. Just trying to build a bike that stands out from the rest of the HQ rides. I have seen a lot nice bikes and now I wanna build something that will drop jaws in every aspect. Trying not to reveal my ideas sooo much, kinda wanna shock people with it.

[RoostRocket]

throw an advanced timing plate on it i think the ricky stator one is like 35 bucks. t5's are awesome pipes i regret not hanging on to mine....

[BellicoseBanshee]

As mentioned, I would also install a TORS elimination kit while you are doing the exhaust, etc.

 

Also, you mention a 2:1 filter, did you purchase this one:

 

 

If so, you will not need the open air lid, for the whole air box needs to be removed to use the filter above. Maybe Toomey makes a different filter that I am not aware of.

[sredish]

the timing plate is a good addition. i advanced mine to 7* and could tell a good bit more snappiness in it. It's been dyno proven to show that it doesn't make much more power once you get over 4 or 5 degrees but it does feel snappier to me at 7*, but 4 or 5 degrees is sufficient. RickyStator as mentioned has them cheap, also look at ebay.

 

As far as the Toomey jet kit. I'd use the mains necessary to dial it in but I'd leave the stock needles in place, don't use the Toomey needles. I've seen and fixed quite a few jetting problems where the Toomey needles were the culprit. I'm not a fan of Toomey or Dynojet needles. Use the mains and pilots as needed and your good.

 

The Toomey 2:1 filter deal is a good one, works well and have heard loads of good feedback on it.

 

What are you doing for reeds? Not super necessary yet but they will make an improvement, but don't buy any except for the VForce, so if your not ready for the Vforce money-wise, wait until you are.

 

Next, you can mill the head .030" for $35 or $40, or you can blow more on the billet Noss heads.

 

That should be enough for now. Truthfully, what you have in the list is a great start. The timing plate is cheap and will help and can be done at any time. Have fun with it and be ready for a different machine.

Edited September 23, 2007 by sredish

[John]

I have a +6 timing key on my 400EX and the throttle response is awesome. I have considered the timing key, but I think I am going to hold off onto the next set of mods comes along.

 

I hope I can retain my airbox or that filter is going to be up for sale, I ride in very dusty areas and I already have to clean the filters thorough after every ride as it is, and it's sitting in the stock airbox. I will have to look into it, they didn't mention anything on the Toomey site about removal of airbox for that filter.

 

I guess I will stick with stock needles then. I have heard not so nice things about the Toomey needles since I am researching it more.

 

I was going to go with a cool head in round two of my power enhancing mods at which time I would go with VForce 3s, and 28mm carbs. After that I planned on waiting for the top end to need a rebuild so I can send the jugs out for a woods play port from FAST. Then I am finished with the motor, anything after that and I wouldn't be able to run any faster in the trails and pits. I don't need a 75hp motor, wherever I get with all those mods will be plenty enough. I am trying to finalize the rest of the suspension now and getting new wheels.

 

The reason I am choosing not to replace reeds now is it will be easier to do when I am going to put new carbs on it. My bike only has 35hrs on it, I bought it with less than 20 from the original owner. i have owned the bike 3 months. I feel the motor is finally broken in and runs really good the way it is.

 

I also was planning on trying to locate a lightened flywheel to add to the mix as well but haven't had any success.

[sredish]

I have a +6 timing key on my 400EX and the throttle response is awesome. I have considered the timing key, but I think I am going to hold off onto the next set of mods comes along.

 

yea, it can be done at any time as I'm sure your aware. I like the plates over the keys but that's your call.

 

I was going to go with a cool head in round two of my power enhancing mods at which time I would go with VForce 3s, and 28mm carbs. After that I planned on waiting for the top end to need a rebuild so I can send the jugs out for a woods play port from FAST. Then I am finished with the motor, anything after that and I wouldn't be able to run any faster in the trails and pits. I don't need a 75hp motor, wherever I get with all those mods will be plenty enough. I am trying to finalize the rest of the suspension now and getting new wheels.

Sounds good, sounds like you have a good plan for what you want out of the motor. As far as the rebuild. Often times, if you catch it right, you can replace the rings and keep your bore and pistons. I can usually get 3 sets of rings out of a pair of pistons, in fact my '01 has only had one over bore. Just check the compression good after the new rings, write it down and when the compression drops a certain percent, throw new rings in.

 

he reason I am choosing not to replace reeds now is it will be easier to do when I am going to put new carbs on it. My bike only has 35hrs on it, I bought it with less than 20 from the original owner. i have owned the bike 3 months. I feel the motor is finally broken in and runs really good the way it is.

 

I also was planning on trying to locate a lightened flywheel to add to the mix as well but haven't had any success.

 

Yea, there's not really any big need for reeds yet. You'll really start to see the benefits with a ported motor and carbwork. As far as the lightened flywheel, you can usually find a machine shop that'll do it for ya. my old bud, member "boonman" used to do it on here for not a lot of dough and it's a good modification. Makes the motor much snappier, revs great and super responsive.

[RagunCajun]

I ran the 2 into 1 toomey filter kinda like posted above and it got VERY dirty. Worked fine.

 

As for the 28mm carbs, i run stock carbs. I've got a ported engine with all supporting mods. It runs very strong and reliable(i got the video to prove it :biggrin: ). You will be fine with stock carbs.

 

I basicly went in the same direction you are going. A ported shee with supporing mods then called it quits with the engine. Then focus on suspension. I went with a yfz450 front end and a gforce axel. Revalved/sprung OEM rear shock. works fine. cheap too

[John]

I ran the 2 into 1 toomey filter kinda like posted above and it got VERY dirty. Worked fine.

 

As for the 28mm carbs, i run stock carbs. I've got a ported engine with all supporting mods. It runs very strong and reliable(i got the video to prove it :biggrin: ). You will be fine with stock carbs.

 

I basicly went in the same direction you are going. A ported shee with supporing mods then called it quits with the engine. Then focus on suspension. I went with a yfz450 front end and a gforce axel. Revalved/sprung OEM rear shock. works fine. cheap too

 

Yes I have seen videos of your bike, very fast indeed. I already have the YFZ a-arms, I am waiting on 2003LEBanshee I believe his name is to contact me back when he has time away from the Fire academy thing so I can ship my arms (Limited Edition arms might I add) NOSS tie rods, and YFZ450 shocks are already in the snail mail. All I am looking for now is YFZ front hubs, spindles, calipers, Galfer pads, rotors, brake lines, revalve the rear shock and maybe go with an RPM axle. Hiper wheels, and new plastics with a vinyl job I design. I know I don't need big ass carbs and stroker motors and all the other stuff that everyone seems to buy because I will never use that kinda power where I ride. I hope all the motor work gets me over 55hp. I am considering keeping stock carbs, but I always thought the 28s would be a perfect match for the setup, and give me more top end. I am not going for a crazy top end port job so I figured it would be another place add a little more meat in. I guess I will see in time how I wanna change this or that. So far I have pretty much put my 400 on the backburner while I build this bike. Thanks again for all the advice and info, I appreciate it.

[BellicoseBanshee]

I would highly recommend the Noss head if you choose to go with an aftermarket head. They are excellant, use the stock studs, and Dave Noss is one of the nicest guys to work with. I ordered one in January, spent five minutes talking to Dave about the head, and we spent about twenty five minutes talking about old-school dirt bikes and three-wheelers. I know I could call him tomorrow with questions, and he will take time to answer them eight months after my purchase. My $0.02.

[John]

I would highly recommend the Noss head if you choose to go with an aftermarket head. They are excellant, use the stock studs, and Dave Noss is one of the nicest guys to work with. I ordered one in January, spent five minutes talking to Dave about the head, and we spent about twenty five minutes talking about old-school dirt bikes and three-wheelers. I know I could call him tomorrow with questions, and he will take time to answer them eight months after my purchase. My $0.02.

 

The NOSS head was the head I was going to choose and try to go with the smallest cc domes pump gas will allow, so I am thinking something like 20cc. Maybe 21cc. Not sure what the lowest I can go, but then again I haven't researched it yet.

[John]

The NOSS head was the head I was going to choose and try to go with the smallest cc domes pump gas will allow, so I am thinking something like 20cc. Maybe 21cc. Not sure what the lowest I can go, but then again I haven't researched it yet.

 

So I called FAST today and ordered a carb synch tool and then I ordered the TORS removal kit from them, and I began to talk about porting and carb size and I said I am looking for what would be a woods port and maybe 28pwks, and I was told I would be better off with 33s because that would build a massive midrange and add a little more over rev to the bike.... Any ideas on this?

[RoostRocket]

So I called FAST today and ordered a carb synch tool and then I ordered the TORS removal kit from them, and I began to talk about porting and carb size and I said I am looking for what would be a woods port and maybe 28pwks, and I was told I would be better off with 33s because that would build a massive midrange and add a little more over rev to the bike.... Any ideas on this?

if jeff told you that i would believe him... i think he know his shit. :beer: i would strongly reccomend the timing plate one of the best bangs for your buck especially on a woods bike and $35 is dirt cheap.

[John]

if jeff told you that i would believe him... i think he know his shit. :beer: i would strongly reccomend the timing plate one of the best bangs for your buck especially on a woods bike and $35 is dirt cheap.

 

 

I will add that to stage 2 of my power enhancing mods to go along with a new stator that can actually run my lights and a lightweight flywheel. I don't know if I spoke to Jeff directly, whoever answered the phone pretty much told me that. I would be probably safe from whatever that guy said seeing he has probably seen a shitload of bikes come in and out and what works and whatnot.