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Sliping clutch


patarol

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Hi, i`m having a problem with my clutch sliping, stock clutch. Have som of you tryed the EBC clutch kit? thinking of bying one from TDR racing and run on ATF dextron2. my banshee dont have the extreem mods, but it runs great! wil the EBC clutch do the job? :ermm:

 

Thanks!

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Hi, i`m having a problem with my clutch sliping, stock clutch. Have som of you tryed the EBC clutch kit? thinking of bying one from TDR racing and run on ATF dextron2. my banshee dont have the extreem mods, but it runs great! wil the EBC clutch do the job? :ermm:

 

Thanks!

 

Spend a few extra bucks (5 to 10) and get the clutch from Jeff @ FAST.

If you don't have an extreme mods, use 3 stock and 3 HD springs, alternate them. get an ez pull lever and perch.

It will last you a LONG time.

 

 

I'm on my 3rd season with mine, from a bolt on stocker in 05, a 4 mil cub on gas last year (95HP or so) to a 10 mil on alky with override and lockup this year (115 to 120HP or so)...this thing still keeps on ticking...

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i was thinking of posting a question, but this is basically my question also...slipping clutch. i have an '06, 19cc domes, +4 timing, t-5's,2into1 foam filter,stock carbs with tors removed,v-force 3, vitos superstock pistons, running 100LL av-gas with power plus, i do 3rd gear starts on drags, and get plenty of wheel spin and have bought a 15 tooth front to help but it feels that the clutch is not releasing very well, i run honda hp trans oil 85w. i am thinking i need to do the heavy springs in the clutch also. if i change half of them with heavy ones, how much will it change the "feel" of the lever? how hard are they to change? special tools?

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before you just go and slap a clutch in there, check your other clutch parts. its possible they are worn. what year is the motor. if they are worn and you put a new clutch in it, you will mask the problem for a while, but itll be back..

 

ok.... so what do you check? grooves on the outer basket and wear on your pressue plate/s?

 

if there is slight grooving on your outerbasket you can carefully file them all smooth. im not sure how grooved is too grooved, does anyone know this spec and how to measure it?

 

if your outer pressure plate is worn (the outer ring will be dead smooth when worn, as opposed to being able to feel and see machine marks in it) just replace it, they are cheap ($15?)

 

if your inner basket/pressure plate is worn (same deal as the outer plate) then you may need to replace that too... not sure how expensvie they are..

 

is there anything im missing?

 

one thing ive never seen anyone mention is make sure you put the steel plates in correctly. they are offset and each one must go in rotated 60 degrees to the last one. you wouldnt know this unless you had a manual and it is highly important... otherwise your clutch will be unbalanced...

 

pretty much just get a manual and it takes you absolutley everything so you shouldnt get it wrong!

 

oh yeah and if i was in america i would have bought the FAST kit for my shee, but im in australia and needed a clutch asap so i put my own together with new banshee steels, FZR1000 fibres and 6 barnett springs. got a ez pull perch and a motion pro cable to go tonight and then i can try it all out this weekend!

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one thing ive never seen anyone mention is make sure you put the steel plates in correctly. they are offset and each one must go in rotated 60 degrees to the last one. you wouldnt know this unless you had a manual and it is highly important... otherwise your clutch will be unbalanced...

 

Most after market clutches are NOT offset on the steels, nor do the fibers use the rubber orings to dampen noise, either....

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I am running a Barnett Carbon Fiber clutch.

 

I would have gottne the FAST clutch if I would have known about it before I got this one. I have been going on a couple of years with no problems.

 

The Fast clutch uses fibers from a yamaha street bike.(i believe) Factory designed to hold power from 150 HP+ crotch rockets.

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