ban02shee Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 Just wondering what everyone thinks about cranks for the banshee, i just got a banshee with a junk crank and was thinking about ordering the whole stroker kit for 800, or just buying crank and everything seperate if im going to spend 400 on the crank i might as well get a stroker or should i just get a another stock one thanks in advance this is for trail and pits need to keep up to 450s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZBansheeMan Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 The stroker is the way to go, but just keep in mind that when adding a stroker, you will need porting to get the port timings back, you will need to have your stock head cut for stroker pistons or a cool head with stroker domes to clear the pistons, you will need some pipes if the ones you have are stockers, and you will probably need some carbs and reeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYUK Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 a well built 4mm, welded crank ,ported is a pretty bullet proof set up. a trail port the right carbs and reeds, you will walk 450 `s with your feet on the front fenders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lethaface Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 For $800 i'm assuming it comes with everything needed to bolt on and go.. You can get the 4mm longrod for $420 so surely there is some porting and domes in with that price.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odaen Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 a well built 4mm, welded crank ,ported is a pretty bullet proof set up. a trail port the right carbs and reeds, you will walk 450 `s with your feet on the front fenders. true dat :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sredish Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 if your already replacing the crank, go with the +4 and never look back. It'll be a little more in the long run but it'll be so much mo betta....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted September 11, 2007 Report Share Posted September 11, 2007 if your already replacing the crank, go with the +4 and never look back. It'll be a little more in the long run but it'll be so much mo betta....! Yep. I agree. The difference in my stock stroke Cub and my 4 mil Cub is unbelievable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ban02shee Posted September 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2007 (edited) The stroker is the way to go, but just keep in mind that when adding a stroker, you will need porting to get the port timings back, you will need to have your stock head cut for stroker pistons or a cool head with stroker domes to clear the pistons, you will need some pipes if the ones you have are stockers, and you will probably need some carbs and reeds. just wondering when you say need to get the port timings back , should i just bring the gasket and get it gasket matched i believe itll be cheaper to buy crank and piston all seperate but this kit is 769 with it all, think i might do it seperate but just to show what im talking about http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-YFZ3...sspagenameZWDVW that was the kit i was looking at also i have fmf fatty gold pipes, fmf powercore Edited September 12, 2007 by ban02shee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ban02shee Posted September 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2007 any opinions on that kit ..... thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZBansheeMan Posted September 13, 2007 Report Share Posted September 13, 2007 (edited) What I meant by getting your port timings back, was when adding a stroker you need to have your cylinders ported to match the new stroke. ie. the ports need to be raised and lowered both, they also need to be opened up to flow enough for the added displacement of your engine. That kit comes with the GAY spacer plate, if your gonna do the 4mm stroker, DON'T use the spacer plate. That basically is so you can drop the crank in and slap your engine back together without porting just to make it run, but it will never run quite right without the proper porting. Another thing, if your considering a new crank, while your at it, I would recommend getting it trued and welded. Your best bet is to contact Jeff @ F.A.S.T. racing for parts and pricing. Edited September 13, 2007 by RZBansheeMan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted September 13, 2007 Report Share Posted September 13, 2007 any opinions on that kit ..... thanks Dont get that kit. Here is a list of what you will need. Stroker crank aound 400-450 from FAST Wesico 795 series pistons Noss head with domes cut for the stroker crank (Rechambered stock head woudl do) Port job for the 4 mill stroker crank. gaskets. That spacer plate in that kit moves the cylinders up so the pistons dont hit the head. 4mill stroker causes the pistons to travel 2mm down farther in to the cylinder and 2mm higher in the cylinder. If you run stoker domes in a noss or cool head then you dont run that plate. Cut domes is the way to go. That way you dont have to use that plate. Just throwing that kit in a stock ported motor will be a waste. Get a port job to really make it scream. Talk to a couple builders. Patriot Racin FAST Passion Racing Herr Jugs The list goes on and on. Some will be back logged months some will be albe to have a quick turn around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ban02shee Posted September 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2007 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...s_promot_widget this is what i ended up ordering, i have a cool head on it now but i need 19cc domes now, and what would you guys say for reeds thanks for the tips appreciate it and definatly getting it ported, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted September 14, 2007 Report Share Posted September 14, 2007 When you get it ported make sure you tell them your giong to be doing a 4 mill. Have them port it to not run a spacer plate and use custom cut domes. As for reeds I would do Vforce 3's with cascade's reed stuffers. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted September 15, 2007 Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 Dont get that kit. Here is a list of what you will need. Stroker crank aound 400-450 from FAST Wesico 795 series pistons Noss head with domes cut for the stroker crank (Rechambered stock head woudl do) Port job for the 4 mill stroker crank. gaskets. That spacer plate in that kit moves the cylinders up so the pistons dont hit the head. 4mill stroker causes the pistons to travel 2mm down farther in to the cylinder and 2mm higher in the cylinder. If you run stoker domes in a noss or cool head then you dont run that plate. Cut domes is the way to go. That way you dont have to use that plate. Just throwing that kit in a stock ported motor will be a waste. Get a port job to really make it scream. Talk to a couple builders. Patriot Racin FAST Passion Racing Herr Jugs The list goes on and on. Some will be back logged months some will be albe to have a quick turn around. I thought if you ran 795 pistons you didn't have to cut the domes? Doesn't the wrist pin location take care of the piston travel issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZBansheeMan Posted September 15, 2007 Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 I thought if you ran 795 pistons you didn't have to cut the domes? Doesn't the wrist pin location take care of the piston travel issue? You still have to have the domes cut, the 795 pistons were designed for stock stroke with the 115mm long rods. Once upon a time the long rod setup utilized rods from a Yamaha RD 400 bike engine and using the blaster pistons for the 5mm higher pin height, the problem with running blaster pistons was having to bore the cylinders all the way out to fit them, and having to rachamber the head to match the dome of the piston. This was such a popular mod that wiseco made the 795's with the stock dome and starting at std. Banshee bore. They are used on the 4mm long rod stroker (on a 4mm stroker the crank pin is offset by 2mm resulting in the piston traveling 2mm higher in the cylinder and 2mm lower) , but the piston crown will stick out the top of the cylinder 2mm, therefore the domes need to be recessed accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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