Jump to content

help a rube with his shee


brap

Recommended Posts

I'll start by saying I'm about as wise a mechanic as I am a surgeon. With a detailed manual I could probably find the lug nuts. Anyhow, this is the first 2 stroke I've ever owned (it only took 30 seconds to be sold) and I need to get a few things straight. When I test drove it she ran like a, well, banshee and after my first real ride the next day she ran like garbage. the right side cyl. would only fire once in while and was popping and rapping when it did. It only seemed to fire well at high rpms. I was informed that I gummed it up driving to slow, as I had my 3 year old daughter on board, and to take it out and open it up. I did and it ran well for a bit and then starded again on the right side. Long story short, it only runs well at very high rpms and eventually the right side craps out as soon as I have to run slow (through town or on a rough trail). Carbs? or is this a more sinister issue? Again, I'm a rube about technical stuff so please package any advice in english. thanks so much

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it could be a carb issue but more than likely its bad plugs from riding it to slow for to long and just fowled them out, they might have been going bad when you bought it cheap and easy fix ( well for most ) hope you can figure out where they are.they are ngkbr8es you can get them at most auto parts stores cheap or go to the any motor cycle shop and pay a little more.Lrt us know haw it goes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well..in that case, it's time for surgery Doctor...LOL.

 

get a Clymers manual...best step by step with pictures out there.

 

Remove each carb, clean it very well. Pay close attention to removing the pilot jets and clean the tiny holes in those with a piece of speaker wire.

 

The pilot circuit on the carbs controls low speed/low throttle response.

Make sure you do one carb at a time, so you don't accidentally swap parts from one to the other (yes...it does make a difference. Each one has it's own slide and float bowl)

 

Set your air screws to specs, syncronize the carbs (so they open/close) at the same time, and clean the air filter assembly.

 

I bet that fixes your problem...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll start there. Also on that topic, the guy I bought it from put on some FMF gold pipes and I assume this requires a rejet(?)

and if I'm not mistaken there are some aftermarket parts on the top of the carb. He said the factory tops were junk because of the electronic circuitry. I can only assume that is what you are talking about regarding the high/low speed throttle. Should I still be able to dial in a smooth running machine without the factory carb deal? And if I reset the carbs to factory specs will I still be able to keep the FMFs? They're so shiney and nice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll start there. Also on that topic, the guy I bought it from put on some FMF gold pipes and I assume this requires a rejet(?)

and if I'm not mistaken there are some aftermarket parts on the top of the carb. He said the factory tops were junk because of the electronic circuitry. I can only assume that is what you are talking about regarding the high/low speed throttle. Should I still be able to dial in a smooth running machine without the factory carb deal? And if I reset the carbs to factory specs will I still be able to keep the FMFs? They're so shiney and nice.

 

 

What the previous owner did was purchase a TORS eliminator kit. This is a good thing, but has nothing to do with the pilot circuit. Buy that clymers! Even the owner's manual will get you through synching the carbs and checking the float levels, I believe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll take the advice on the clymers. I've bought them for other toys and just haven't got around to getting one yet and the guy I bought it from didn't have the manual. I took it out this evening and let the ponies out and a good hard ride and, knock on wood, it ran well all day with only a little mushyness off the line in first. I'll pull the carbs out this fall and clean em up real good. I've been seeking advice from some of my friends and they claim that "The ONLY way that thing is going to run good is wide open. If you don't run it wide open it's going to foul out the plugs and run crappy." How sound is this advice? seems like a boatload of feces to me, but I was curious.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"The ONLY way that thing is going to run good is wide open. If you don't run it wide open it's going to foul out the plugs and run crappy." How sound is this advice? seems like a boatload of feces to me, but I was curious.

 

Went on a 100 mile ride last weekend. Was so dusty that you couldnt see. Averaged 25 mph on the trip and the bike ran great. You just need to get the carbs dialed in and make sure the rest of the motor is tight :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...