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Override transmission


J-Madd

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Thanks, that's what I thought.

About riding with an override.........if your just lugging it to get to the track or drag racing area, how do you manage to do that without damaging the shift forks? Say I'm putting along in first gear and have to let off of the gas, so I pull in the clutch. When I get ready to accelerate again, do I have to rev it up and pop the clutch to keep from back loading the transmission?

you dont need to rev and pop the clutch .. just let the motor turn the wheels dont let the wheels turn the motor.. if you understand??? it will allow your shift forks to last longer..

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you dont need to rev and pop the clutch .. just let the motor turn the wheels dont let the wheels turn the motor.. if you understand??? it will allow your shift forks to last longer..

 

I understand. Thanks for the explanation. It won't matter as much now b/c I just bought a 1-5 dunable override. I've got more confidence in that now than I did when I posted this topic.

 

 

 

Thanks!!!! :beer: :notworthy:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, putting the override in with the cylinders still installed was not a problem. Just assemble the tranny in the bottom case half, then have someone help you put the the top in place. I'm not completely finished yet......I still have to put the clutch basket on, but it shifts through every gear and turns smoothly.

 

I was lucky I decided to do this........the clip on the idler gear (the one the kick starter gear turns) came off and beat up the outside of my clutch basket. I used an e-clip instead of a snap ring....bad idea. The basket is billet, so it really didn't damage the surface where the clutch plates touch. It looked like glitter everywhere. The bearings all seemed to be ok, though. I had been using Klotz Flexdrive oil and changed it often.

Here is also an observation I'd like to pass along: Don't try to use a modded shift star with an override. Just use the one that is already installed. I thought I'd put mine on the new shift drum for whatever stupid reason....and almost put it together that way before noticing that neutral is not in the same place and that there are not 6 notches. I already knew that it was 1-5 neutral down, but didn't really think about the shift star playing a role in that.

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The shift drum itself is modified, and there are some differences on the gears themselves, but someone else will have to answer specific questions. I have no idea how it works, even though I installed it. There is a spring between the #1 and #2 shift forks, and springs between those forks and each side of the case as well.

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wow crazy so im guessing it makes it more like a direct drive trannsmission making more gear contact.. can u modify a stock drum, are they the same length?

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not every builder does overrides the same ,so the ansewers will be abit subjective.in my experiance

i dont see why anyone would take the entire topend off for that,just a waste of time and gaskets ...just flip it over and install through the bottom .also i dont see the need for sending out the cases other than so the builder can visually inspect everything for any repairs that may be needed .install the new springs i n the right order and the forks ride inside the internal grooved tracks of the modifed shift drum so really to me theres no issue there on location .

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the reason people send the bottom case out is so the builder can mock up the springs and adjust the spring tension, the shift forks are to have a bit like a pubic hair of clearance in the groove of the shift drum.

 

trust me its a pain in the ass, lot easier to just have a guy do it for you.

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