Ben350 Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 To start off i did a search fro info on this subject and found a lot, but still have a few ?s. For a little backround, my bike used to have 2 55watt 5 inch spots for riding in Little Sahara and St.Anthony at night and in order to run them i had a Ricky Stator high out put stator and flywheel. Worked unbelievably well at 1st. But long story short, i just sent back my 3rd Ricky Stator and will never bolt one on again. The first 2, the screws that secure the windings to the timing plate all snapped and the stator fell into the flywheel with mucho carnage resulting. The 3rd one they told me was a revised unit, they admitted they were having problems, and this one would be the ticket. Well, it lasted about 5 hours. The screws didnt break, just backed out this time and caused the flywheel key to shear and spin my flywheel on my new 4mm crank. I was less than pleased. I was all the way out in ID at St.Anthony Dunes, which is a 30 hour drive for me. Same thing happened last year. Not easy getting towed out of there. These screws are the ones they put in, i never touch them. So i refuse to use anymore RS products. They are the nicest people and warranty the stuff no questions asked, but i cant give them a 4th chance Sorry for that novel, but now i decided to go with the trailtech MR16s HID. And no matter what i run, has to be stock stator. I saw in some previous posts that it sounds like the stock stator with the ground floated,battery,and reg/rectifier might not be enough output? Also, i cant recall name, but one member claimed that he had nothing but problems with the conversion? And i plan on upgrading the wiring like was said to 14 gauge to try and make this setup bulletproof. Im tired of breaking down in the dunes, i need a bulletproof setup. If there is any question to reliability or anything, i guess im going back to regular 35w lights with stock electrical system. I'll upgrade my YFZ to ride at night. I appreciate your guys input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 (edited) I can hook you up with a battery, battery mount, reg/rec and some guidance that will work. I would suggest upgrading the stator just to make sure the battery gets a little more charge though. What about a moose or electrix stator? The battery I have here at the house is a monster and the mr16's hooked to it with a good at least 150-200w stator on the bike should run the lights for a very long time at night and even be ok with the bike off and lights on for a long while. I have an odyssey battery here, a mount I made, and I can get you a sled reg/rec that I use from a sled company out of Wisconsin. I have floated a ground and done all that Jazz on my bike, it works just fine. You dont really have to upgrade tha harness wiring all that much if you run mr16's. They only draw about 2.9 amps a piece once fired up on the bike. That amp draw is about the same as the stock 35w halogen lights. They just do a brief warm up at 12-15 amps for about 1-2 seconds. Edited July 4, 2007 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben350 Posted July 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 I can hook you up with a battery, battery mount, reg/rec and some guidance that will work. I would suggest upgrading the stator just to make sure the battery gets a little more charge though. What about a moose or electrix stator? The battery I have here at the house is a monster and the mr16's hooked to it with a good at least 150-200w stator on the bike should run the lights for a very long time at night and even be ok with the bike off and lights on for a long while. I have an odyssey battery here, a mount I made, and I can get you a sled reg/rec that I use from a sled company out of Wisconsin. I have floated a ground and done all that Jazz on my bike, it works just fine. You dont really have to upgrade tha harness wiring all that much if you run mr16's. They only draw about 2.9 amps a piece once fired up on the bike. That amp draw is about the same as the stock 35w halogen lights. They just do a brief warm up at 12-15 amps for about 1-2 seconds. I would be interested in the reg/rectifier. How big is the battery? i would probably fab up my own battery box. So in your opinion, the stock stator output just wont cut it? Im just so disgusted with all i went through with the aftermarket stators im doing everything i can to stick with stock one. I guess i could try stock one to see if battery gets discharged of no one has tried it before I believe it was your posts Snopczynski where i read how with the conversion you kept burning up stators. Ever resolve it or find out the cause? As a side note, has anyone had similar problems with Ricky Stators like i did? i bought it last year, it seems as though when you bought your stator matters a lot. Seems like ones from a few years ago are great, but recent ones are terrible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 ive never seen a solid reliable hid kit. seems like everyone i know has continual problems, everything from the light mounts breaking to battery box breaking, they also add some weight to the bike what with the heavy wire, battery, bracket, etc. the stock lights are plastic, lightweight and reasonably decent if you upgrade to an aftermarket regulator. the stock regulator keeps the lights around 9volts max. thats hardly ideal for a 12-14v bulb. also the ricky stators are junk. just last weekend i personally saw one smoke. fastrthnu's bike blew his rickystator out. it burned so bad the thing turned black and his bike quit firing. we popped the ignition cover and flywheel off and you could smell the burned out stator from 20 feet downwind. methy man hates them too. he was there talking about how many hes seen burn up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben350 Posted July 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 ive never seen a solid reliable hid kit. seems like everyone i know has continual problems, everything from the light mounts breaking to battery box breaking, they also add some weight to the bike what with the heavy wire, battery, bracket, etc.the stock lights are plastic, lightweight and reasonably decent if you upgrade to an aftermarket regulator. the stock regulator keeps the lights around 9volts max. thats hardly ideal for a 12-14v bulb. also the ricky stators are junk. just last weekend i personally saw one smoke. fastrthnu's bike blew his rickystator out. it burned so bad the thing turned black and his bike quit firing. we popped the ignition cover and flywheel off and you could smell the burned out stator from 20 feet downwind. methy man hates them too. he was there talking about how many hes seen burn up. im glad im not the only one. Im very familiar with the burnt stator smell. It is absolute BS. Do you guys just run stock stators now, or is there a better aftermarket one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 If the stator wiring physically melts, its not the stators fault. 9 out of 10 cases I have seen were faulty stock regulators. I saw one do it on memorial day weekend. We put it back together and replaced all the wiring in the parking lot at the dunes. I tested the regulator and the thing was running at 10.25v, and the harness was getting hot again. The stock regulators dont gegulate at 9v, they are supposed to regulate at 11.6-12.0v, so if you got one that low, its a malfunctioning unit. I dont have any issues with dc conversions, I haven't had any posts on problems with them. Most of the time I am trying to help other people to get them to work. I will type more at about 10:30, I got to get to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben350 Posted July 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 If the stator wiring physically melts, its not the stators fault. 9 out of 10 cases I have seen were faulty stock regulators. I saw one do it on memorial day weekend. We put it back together and replaced all the wiring in the parking lot at the dunes. I tested the regulator and the thing was running at 10.25v, and the harness was getting hot again. The stock regulators dont gegulate at 9v, they are supposed to regulate at 11.6-12.0v, so if you got one that low, its a malfunctioning unit. I dont have any issues with dc conversions, I haven't had any posts on problems with them. Most of the time I am trying to help other people to get them to work. I will type more at about 10:30, I got to get to work. thanks for info. i couldnt remember who was posting about having all kinds of problems with the AC/DC, ur avatar looked familiar. I would have to go back and look again do you only run the Ricky stators? any experience wit others? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Correction, the stock regulator specs are 11.2-11.6v! (too many beers yesterday). I do run Ricky Stator stuff, as everyone runs away from it, I figure it out even more, and buy some more of his stuff. I bought a RS stator in 2001, and then again about 4 months ago I bought a stator and flywheel for my new bike. My cousin has one, my other cousin who melted his harness has one also. My best friend and his dad have them also. I just bought one of his regulators also, they limit voltage at a higher limit, and are safe up to 225 watts, so my lights run a little brighter with it. (I dont have a DC Conversion on this bike I currently ride). The RS stators melt the harness with a bad stock regulator because the extra juice that it produces puts alot more current through the harness thus heating it up and melting the insualtion off the wiring. The Battery I have in the Shop with the under seat box I fabbed up is a Odyssey PC680 Odyssey PC680 Link This little bugger has some serious juice in it. The stock stator doesn't charge really anything well in a DC Conversion, there simply just isn't enough output from it to maintain a battery all that well. Thats why most fourstrokes with Batteries use a 3 phase stator. I have had mr16 hids on my Rhino, and I have had vision-x h4 conversion hids. Anything you buy from vision-x in an hid is going to be a solid component wth a good warranty. The mr16's can have issues firing up and keeping both on once ignited sometimes. You just turn them off and back on if one doesn't light off though. The output from them is pretty good though. Nick the owner of Vision-x is a friend of mine, his shop is based about 12 miles from my house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben350 Posted July 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 those are some powerful specs for that battery. And i will look into those other HIDs. My friend has the trailtechs on his YFZ and he has the problem of one not firing occassionally. The other stator brands i looked at and look pretty good, but if i get one of those i might as well just keep the lights i have which are more than enough. I was going to do the conversion only if i was able to keep stock stator. With buying a stator, regulator, and lights, it gets a little expensive for lights i use once in awhile. Thanks for all the info, you definitely told me what i wanted to know. I just have to make up my mind now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 no problem. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
375hp banshees Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 If the stator wiring physically melts, its not the stators fault. 9 out of 10 cases I have seen were faulty stock regulators. I saw one do it on memorial day weekend. We put it back together and replaced all the wiring in the parking lot at the dunes. I tested the regulator and the thing was running at 10.25v, and the harness was getting hot again. The stock regulators dont gegulate at 9v, they are supposed to regulate at 11.6-12.0v, so if you got one that low, its a malfunctioning unit. I dont have any issues with dc conversions, I haven't had any posts on problems with them. Most of the time I am trying to help other people to get them to work. I will type more at about 10:30, I got to get to work. Correction, the stock regulator specs are 11.2-11.6v! (too many beers yesterday). had to go to work w/ to many beers, I had to... good info, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 dont know if you realise this or not . the stator puts out the maximum it can no matter if the headlights are on or off. even if you have the stator disconnected from the harness its still putting out the max it can. its the regulators job to dump excess power to save the lights. its not like an automotive alternator which has brushes to control firld strength. the field on a banshee is 100% at all times. it just gets stronger based on rpm's. and i think this is where most people get confused. a banshee regulator cant save a harness or destroy it. the harness gets 100% of the stators power weither the regulator and lights are hooked up or not. the harness knows no difference. the only thing that knows any difference are the headlights. i guess what i am trying to say is that the regulator doesnt control the wattage from the stator. it just dumps any excess that the headlights cant use. if the lights are off, it dumps 100% of it. but that wattage is still being consumed, as heat actually. so if you have a 225 watt ricky stator and 2 35 watt headlights, youre consuming 225 watts. there would be 70 watts going to the lights, and 155 going to waste as heat in the regulator. the voltage would be irrelivant, because as the voltage is raised or lowered, the amps go down or up accordingly to maintain the same wattage. so to say that a regulator is the fault of 9 out of 10 melted stators would be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBanshee420 Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 dont know if you realise this or not . the stator puts out the maximum it can no matter if the headlights are on or off. even if you have the stator disconnected from the harness its still putting out the max it can. its the regulators job to dump excess power to save the lights. its not like an automotive alternator which has brushes to control firld strength. the field on a banshee is 100% at all times. it just gets stronger based on rpm's. and i think this is where most people get confused. Sorry bro but that is where your wrong. All generators only produce a field big enough to accomidate the draw.... I.E. 100w light bulb only needs 100w from the stator, so the stator only makes 100w. I just wnet through all this making a stator for my efi system. I took an old burned up stator (electrix 18 pole) and I made my own with some 14g magnet wire. and a rectifier/regulator. I'm making over 500 watts. Check my pics on the turbo banshee's thread (general disscusion) It's actually alot easier than you think. read up on some google shit about stator rewinding... "3 phase basics" or "stator rewind" or check the "GSresourses"... you'll find some DIY stuff that will make you want to try it yourself. The ricky stator guys laughed at me when I told them I can make over 500w out of a banshee stator. well, I proved them wrong too. Look into it. you can use 2 large guaged phases for your lighting without using a rect/reg and the third phase use small gauge wire for your CDI. Small guage = high voltage (good for spark) large gauge = High current ( good for huge lights) GOOGLE IT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoholbanshee Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Sorry bro but that is where your wrong. All generators only produce a field big enough to accomidate the draw.... I.E. 100w light bulb only needs 100w from the stator, so the stator only makes 100w. I just wnet through all this making a stator for my efi system. I took an old burned up stator (electrix 18 pole) and I made my own with some 14g magnet wire. and a rectifier/regulator. I'm making over 500 watts. Check my pics on the turbo banshee's thread (general disscusion) It's actually alot easier than you think. read up on some google shit about stator rewinding... "3 phase basics" or "stator rewind" or check the "GSresourses"... you'll find some DIY stuff that will make you want to try it yourself. The ricky stator guys laughed at me when I told them I can make over 500w out of a banshee stator. well, I proved them wrong too. Look into it. you can use 2 large guaged phases for your lighting without using a rect/reg and the third phase use small gauge wire for your CDI. Small guage = high voltage (good for spark) large gauge = High current ( good for huge lights) GOOGLE IT! Turbo is correct!!! Now I have to go read one of the old college textbooks!!!!!!!!!! I don't remember the name of the class, but it was basically all electro magnetics. It was very fascinating!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.