chilled Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 My stock stator plate cracked appart on one of the tabs that hold the pickup coil in place. Need a new one before I can ride. Stock assembaly is not needed cause the stator itself is in great shape.. only need the plate. anyone have experience with the ProDesign Stator plate?? Any info will be great... plan on ordering something tommorrow. Thanks alot dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150banshee Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 i have an adjustable stator plate that i got off ebay for 40 bucks and they are good thing to have to replace stock,very easy to use and install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 My stock stator plate cracked appart on one of the tabs that hold the pickup coil in place. Need a new one before I can ride. Stock assembaly is not needed cause the stator itself is in great shape.. only need the plate. anyone have experience with the ProDesign Stator plate?? Any info will be great... plan on ordering something tommorrow. Thanks alot dave IMO...you're wasting money on a polished, billet pro design you'll never see. Get the Ricky Stator Cast plate for 35 plus shipping...it does the same, without the cost of the bling.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxMeltIcexX Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 Word. MajicMike has them on here for 35 shipped if i am not mistaken, PM him. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted June 25, 2007 Report Share Posted June 25, 2007 I run the pro design plate. I bought it on here for 50 bucks. I wouldnt go spend 90 bucks or what ever they cost new though. If you cant find one used get a new Ricky Stator plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilled Posted June 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 I run the pro design plate. I bought it on here for 50 bucks. I wouldnt go spend 90 bucks or what ever they cost new though. If you cant find one used get a new Ricky Stator plate. ive read on these forums that the rickystator plate is a peice of junk and gets stripped out very easily. Compared to the local parts shop, $90 is a good deal. I am mainly worried about the specific products quality. thanks for your replies too dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmd0346 Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 I just put one on my bike. Its a nice piece. Fits really well and looks good. Like was said above though its not really needed if you want to buy Ricky Stator stuff. I dont. After two 5+ mile tows Im done with ole Ricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbAnyHill Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Is there any reason for use of billet vs. metal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shee4speed Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 My RS plate works beautiful.No problems at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
extreem9 Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 (edited) This is a little bit off subject correct me if I'm wrong but isnt the stock plate adjustable, and cant a shop time it to the degree that you want. And a good degree for a dune bike with a port is 4 degrees right. Edited June 27, 2007 by extreem9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallrat Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 You can grind out the holes on the stock plate to give you 4 degrees of advance (do a search cuz I don't remember exactly how much), and ya that's a good number to go with. Billet only refers to the way the metal is prepared, same as cast. Cast aluminum is when they pour molten alum. into a mold. Billet is when you take a solid chunk of metal (doesn't have to be alum) and machine it down to the shape you want. Billet is better looking and stronger, but a timing plate has no load on it and can't be seen. There's a ton of Ricky Stator plates out there, and only a couple failures. Odds are that you'll never have a problem with either provided you install it correctly. Its not something you have to tighten the crap out of, you just use a dab of loctite and snug it down. That's probably the cause of 99% of the reported failures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 You can grind out the holes on the stock plate to give you 4 degrees of advance (do a search cuz I don't remember exactly how much), and ya that's a good number to go with. Billet only refers to the way the metal is prepared, same as cast. Cast aluminum is when they pour molten alum. into a mold. Billet is when you take a solid chunk of metal (doesn't have to be alum) and machine it down to the shape you want. Billet is better looking and stronger, but a timing plate has no load on it and can't be seen. There's a ton of Ricky Stator plates out there, and only a couple failures. Odds are that you'll never have a problem with either provided you install it correctly. Its not something you have to tighten the crap out of, you just use a dab of loctite and snug it down. That's probably the cause of 99% of the reported failures. The screws that hold down the pickup are small. They must be used to adjust the air gap for the flywheel... I've found that if you actually use the correct size screwdriver, you'll have no problems.... The right tool for the right job, imagine that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 its just a stator plate, like someone else said its under no load, low shock, no stress etc. it doesnt need to be billet, it doesnt even need to be aluminum really. id like to see someone make them out of injection moulded plastic for weight savings. the stock stator plate can be cut up to about 4.5 degrees using a drill press and a dremel. if you want to use bolts that are longer than the original 3 10mm's you can probably get about 7-8 degrees out of a stock plate but this involves slightly more intricate cutting maybe even a milling machine. i have my stock plate cut, i did it myself with my drill press and my dremel. i used a timing light to mearsure before and after timing, and i got a hair over 4 degrees out of it. 90% of the banshees out there only need 4 degrees anyways, so for the price of a flywheel removal tool (9-13 bucks) and a coiuple hours of disassembly-cutting-reassembly you can have youre timing advanced. thats 1 drawback of doing it youreself, you dont have a degree marker on the side of the stock plate to show you how many degrees youre advanced, so just use a timing light and do a before and after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilled Posted June 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 so just use a timing light and do a before and after. how do you hook up the timing light to a banshee... my light is 12v so i would need to hook it up to a car battery and then clip the lead on the spark plug wire. Is that all you do? Use an external 12v powersource? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowriderb Posted June 29, 2007 Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 the cast pieces arent bad.. like others said use a little locktite and snug the screws down.. i ran a cast plate for years on my different motors till i went to a pvl.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-YFZ3...sspagenameZWDVW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.