whats my next bang for the buck mod for stock banshee class?

[csrmel]

ya man! look in my sig for my mods. ive got the compression, +4 timing, no flywheel though. i have rode other banshee with a light flywheel and i didnt like it.

no doubt this would help for drag racing, but i just dont like how it effects the trails. i know some people like a light flywheel for trails. im one of those people who would rather have a heavy flywheel for trails, even heavier than stock. but ill just leave the flywheel alone for now

[okbeast]

No I mean raise the timing like up to +10. I know dajo is a fan of the higher timing idea, but I myself have never tried it.

[dajogejr]

ya man! look in my sig for my mods. ive got the compression, +4 timing, no flywheel though. i have rode other banshee with a light flywheel and i didnt like it.

no doubt this would help for drag racing, but i just dont like how it effects the trails. i know some people like a light flywheel for trails. im one of those people who would rather have a heavy flywheel for trails, even heavier than stock. but ill just leave the flywheel alone for now

 

Yep...I totally understand. I had one on my stock motor with T5s. I thought it was easier to ride in the trails...however, I'm not a tighter/technical trail kinda guy, too old for that shit.

 

I rode UP Michigan trails, basically 4th and 5th gear two car wide sled and seasonal road trails....I don't blame you, especially since you already tried it.

 

I have a hard time comprehending the stock thing....so, sorry if I'm coming off wrong...but I understand wanting that last little bit of edge...while trying to keep it trail worthy.

 

I said I was gonna keep mine 50/50 dune/drag...and I built a 100% dragster the next year...damn addiction I tell you...

[dajogejr]

No I mean raise the timing like up to +10. I know dajo is a fan of the higher timing idea, but I myself have never tried it.

 

Yes...but that was also on my cub motor. They love timing and compression.

I'd go +7..see how it goes...easy to raise timing!!

[okbeast]

Ya I just figured that was a pretty easy thing to do to squeeze a little more out since you don't have many options.

[yfzdunejumper]

................I said I was gonna keep mine 50/50 dune/drag...and I built a 100% dragster the next year...damn addiction I tell you...

 

 

 

For sure I said I was going to build this drag shee and take my 450 back to more of a duner but I didn't even have the shee completely done before I had the 450 striped and I was lightening it for pure drag. Oh well I love the addiction.

 

Reeds, bore out your carbs, get HD springs and run them every other spring, get a real timing plate and kick it up to at least 5 I would try 7 but not 10, run a rear strut, get good light tires and wheels (you can find some prowedge 2

[bigboybanshee]

Tires would be the first thing on my list to get...Keep the T5's, bump up your compression as much as you can and still be on pump gas, I agree with advancing your timing some more with a real timing plate, and put a strut in the rear, like mentioned before. Gearing will be a must, drop it down to 13/41. If you're a bigger guy like myself, proper gearing can help out a lot.

 

Not sure how nasty the trails are that you ride, but if you can put some pod filters on your stock carbs, that would help out a little too.

 

I personally wouldn't bother with removing the front brakes, to me, that would be a total PITA to continuously take off, and put back on when you hit the trails...you'll notice a difference but not enough to warrant that much work in between trails and track.

 

Also, above all, learn the tree. Your reaction time can be the win or lose factor in a close race. :thumbsup:

[okbeast]

Also, above all, learn the tree. Your reaction time can be the win or lose factor in a close race. :thumbsup:

 

Exactly, I'd bet 75% of races are won on the holeshot.

[MDS2106]

I will also say 13-41 along with pro wedge IIs or 4-snows and you will be kickin some ass...The gearing drop in the front will help with the hole shot and the snows - wedges will swell up to about 25" which cuts down on shifting....

[375hp banshees]

i cant do the front brakes or the aluminum axle as i still use this banshee for trails. same goes for the cpi or shearer pipes.

 

its just that id like to do some extra stuff to make it faster for drag racing that wouldnt fuck up its ability to run on trails. i was thinking the rules allow the carbs to be bored. maybe this would be a good mod?

i believe that everything i have done do far has benefitted drag racing and trail riding with no drawbacks. id like to try and keep it that way.

id also like to grab some paddles as 98% of the trails i run are infact sand pathways through the woods. its perfect paddle territory, but for now my stock dunlops work decent enough. besides that im not ported or anything. would paddles even help on the 300 foot drag track?

look at the roost those stock dunlops throw in my sig picture. thats pretty decent for a non paddle tyre no?

 

guys i realise that having a dual purpose banshee means i will NEVER be as fast as a strictly drag banshee, and ill never be as smooth on the trails as a strictly mx banshee, but i cant afford 2 banshees so i just need to try and make 1 do both things as good as can be done and live with the compramise.

 

 

 

 

 

wish we weren't in the same class we could swap parts to see what works for both of us ...I just bought carbs to bore, so hook A brotha up

( /w A machienist) I have some paddles on stock rims (or will fit on stock rims your choice) we can work a deal on...or you can buy pro wedges I got 2 sets of paddles we can both try if(or if not) you have prowedges to try too

 

 

 

If your planning on going to Bithlo, you might want to stay with some " stock" type knobby tires, UNLESS your some $$ burning in your pocket. Then I would consider a set of prowedges, as the Bithlo track is more clay with sand. Paddles wont work as well there.

But , if your staying at C&R, I would stay with the knobby tires. Just my opinion, take it for what it is.

yeah, now you tell us, after I commited to more paddles (I know you didn't run at Ga., at that time but...) I'll still buy them though (I said I would)

 

 

im already strutted for the track.

 

heres a list of things that have been mentioned by you guys that i am willing to do and how many people have mentioned it.

 

remove front brakes = 2

aftermarket wheels = 2

aftermarket tyres = 5

different gearing = 2

cpi pipes = 2

shearer pipes = 1

bore carbs = 2

cheat by porting = 1

v force reeds = 1

 

seems like tyres are the most popular choice. if i get tyres, ill have to get wheels as well. ill also have to re gear for different tyres, which is another popular choice. i know alot of you recomend pro wedge, kenda klaw or gnarly, and other paddle type tyres. what would be the consensus as a good but not overly expensive tyre for bithlo and other florida or georgia tracks? remember im a big guy and i only plan on running in the stock banshee class. i would also need rear wheels. i would like to use oem wheels if possible because i can get them used for $10 each which would save my money. money is the whole reason im running in the stock class and not the outlaw class afterall. hehehe :biggrin:

 

one more question, is there any smooth tyres, like say off a zuma or something which would fit on the front wheels? would some small smooth tyres be much of a beneit or not so worth it compared to stock knobbies?

 

what gearing would complement those tyres best? as it is right now, i can launch decently enough with my oem dunlops in second gear. half the time i do a 6 inch tall 15 foot long wheelie off the line to give you a perspective.

 

will cpi or shearer pipes work better for dragging than my toomey t5's even though my motor is NOT bored or ported? hell ive never even had cylinders off this motor, and its got perfect compression. 149psi in each cylinder. i kind of was under the impression that cpi or shearer were only for ported motors, and would make a non ported motor way too peaky that it would not be very usable except at super high rpm's.

 

also can the front brakes be removed without opening up the hoses and pipes? maybe i could remove the front brakes for dragging but i dont want to do it if i have to open the system and bleed the fuckers each time i get home. if i could remove the front brakes as a complete assembly, i would consider it.

 

whats all involved in getting the carbs bored? i have a machinist buddy that will do them for free but i would need to know the specs of how much to bore them, if the bore is an oval or circular, what angle, etc. i have a feeling that shops who do this already wouldnt exactly divulge the info freely.

 

i guess c&r is not doing drags anymore? thats what i heard, so ill be joining you guys up at bithlo and possibly other tracks. i live in palm beach half the time and sebring the other half, so bithlo is either 150 miles away or 50 miles away.

 

does anyone have a guide on cutting off excess tabs and brackets on the banshee frame? i know i have seen people go as far as to frmove entire pipes as well as unused tabs and frame gussets for drag racing, but i still trail ride this banshee so i wouldnt want to remove anything thats going to make it weak.

 

but i do need to get lighter and quicker. last time i raced freakin methyman's son beat me. he probably weigh 140ls, thats about 120lbs less than i weigh! so i got to do some things to even up the field. i came up and congradulated him too. nice kid.

 

 

you ran alot better times them methy jr, I beat him & you walked me... I also put my cpi's on so we will test the cpi/stock bike theory (except different track so don't know how good of A comparison it will be) if I run better times I'll be happy ( dropped A few 10ths w/ pods so far)

 

 

I wouldn't remove your brakes, but if you want to I have two sets of spindles that have the bracket cut off ( or made w/ out the brackets) that you can try if you want , I always thought it was silly to 2 oz. here 2 oz. there, until I started building my new set up , but i'm starting from scratch so might as well go light, if I gota buy it any way ( not the cheepest route though)

 

I also have alot of aluminum tire combo,s, just say the word & i'll bring them for you to try (we should have enough time in test & tune to try all combo's except cpi's, but i'll tell you that :biggrin:

 

ps congrats on the diet ... boy, diet & quit smoking my hats of to you good job!!!

[majicmike]

this is what I would do as far as mods. When you mod are limited you have to start thinking out side of the box to be fast. Like others have said tire and set up are key.As far as the motor I would look into stright cut gears as it will free up a few horse and reduce the side load on the crank. Also I would put tz or max load crank bearings on as it would free up some power as well. Ok now here is something that is often over looked domes in your head. You have a pro design right ? the squish angle is safe it matches the angle on the dome of the piston.Noss domes (the ones I have seen) have a little bit more angle what this does is speeds up the mixture towards the center of the dome. This lets it rev a bit faster freeing up horse power. There is a draw back you have to control the detonation a bit more. You could also call you favorite builder and talk about custom domes for you. I would also do the v-force reeds . Also make sure you have the plug gap and pic up gap set correct. I would also switch to a four ply k&n style filter at the track. This is what I would do and is IMO.

[csrmel]

i appreciate all the reponses guys, im sure everyone else who races in stock banshee class appreciates this as well. i am going to put into practice what most of you have said as my budget allows. ill start with the most popular idea, tyres, and work to the least popular, reeds.

if anyone else has more ideas, be sure to post them up. the stock banshee class is very limited on what can be done without cheating so we need every mod that makes a difference!