csrmel Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 so if you look at my signature you can see my mods. as you know the stock banshee class doesnt allow too much to be done. by the way i AM on a diet and lost 30lbs already. i figure the weight loss off my ass is probably the best mod i can do, its free too but whats next for my banshee? im looking for the "next" thing to do that gives me bang for the buck. 1. All atv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Are you going straight drag now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcoholbanshee Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Lose the front brakes........I did'nt see anything about an aluminum axle, so I would be getting one of those for sure!!!! Did'nt see what you are running for tires, if they are paddles run ultralites!!!! Better pipes CPI, Shearer, Can the stock carbs be bored in this class? I would also run Marvin Shaw shocks. That's about all for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted June 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 i cant do the front brakes or the aluminum axle as i still use this banshee for trails. same goes for the cpi or shearer pipes. its just that id like to do some extra stuff to make it faster for drag racing that wouldnt fuck up its ability to run on trails. i was thinking the rules allow the carbs to be bored. maybe this would be a good mod? i believe that everything i have done do far has benefitted drag racing and trail riding with no drawbacks. id like to try and keep it that way. id also like to grab some paddles as 98% of the trails i run are infact sand pathways through the woods. its perfect paddle territory, but for now my stock dunlops work decent enough. besides that im not ported or anything. would paddles even help on the 300 foot drag track? look at the roost those stock dunlops throw in my sig picture. thats pretty decent for a non paddle tyre no? guys i realise that having a dual purpose banshee means i will NEVER be as fast as a strictly drag banshee, and ill never be as smooth on the trails as a strictly mx banshee, but i cant afford 2 banshees so i just need to try and make 1 do both things as good as can be done and live with the compramise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboybanshee Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 I would change your gearing and strut it for when you take it to the drags. You'll probably pick up a few tenths of a second just from that. I wouldn't mess with paddles just for dragging, but a good set of dirt tires would give you better traction than what you have now, and could use them for the trails and track....maybe a kenda klaw, or gnarly tire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 I'd get some Vforce reeds, Bore the carbs and Make a strut for the rear. Then you can take the strut out when you go trail riding. This would keep your bike 100% trail worthy and net you a few extra HP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 I would change your gearing and strut it for when you take it to the drags. You'll probably pick up a few tenths of a second just from that. I wouldn't mess with paddles just for dragging, but a good set of dirt tires would give you better traction than what you have now, and could use them for the trails and track....maybe a kenda klaw, or gnarly tire? What about zippers or 4-snows? I'm not sure how durable they are though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboybanshee Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Pro wedges would be ideal for the dirt, but don't know if he wants to buy a set of tires "just" for dragging. That's why I was thinking maybe a light, decently treaded tire would be more beneficial over the stockers, and he can use them on both applications :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted June 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 i forgot to add that i already have a set of rigid struts for drag racing. i also remove the front bumper, grab bar, headlights and metal heel guards when i go dragging to lighten the load. those things only take a few minutes to remove or put back on anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynodon Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 If your planning on going to Bithlo, you might want to stay with some " stock" type knobby tires, UNLESS your some $$ burning in your pocket. Then I would consider a set of prowedges, as the Bithlo track is more clay with sand. Paddles wont work as well there. But , if your staying at C&R, I would stay with the knobby tires. Just my opinion, take it for what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
625banshee Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Port it and put wiseco pistons in it. The worst they can do is rip you down. The track we run at has the same rules but nobody listens,almost everyone is ported and polished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Strut it for the track. Remove the front brakes. get the lightest tires/rims you can. Get a 13 tooth front, launch in 2nd gear. Get CPI pipes, and bore the carbs. I know you want to trail ride...but at least take off the hush kit for the races.... I'm hoping it's bracket racing...in that case...I can see you wanting a dual purpose bike. Otherwise...there's gonna always be cheaters...and you're gonna lose... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrmel Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 im already strutted for the track. heres a list of things that have been mentioned by you guys that i am willing to do and how many people have mentioned it. remove front brakes = 2 aftermarket wheels = 2 aftermarket tyres = 5 different gearing = 2 cpi pipes = 2 shearer pipes = 1 bore carbs = 2 cheat by porting = 1 v force reeds = 1 seems like tyres are the most popular choice. if i get tyres, ill have to get wheels as well. ill also have to re gear for different tyres, which is another popular choice. i know alot of you recomend pro wedge, kenda klaw or gnarly, and other paddle type tyres. what would be the consensus as a good but not overly expensive tyre for bithlo and other florida or georgia tracks? remember im a big guy and i only plan on running in the stock banshee class. i would also need rear wheels. i would like to use oem wheels if possible because i can get them used for $10 each which would save my money. money is the whole reason im running in the stock class and not the outlaw class afterall. hehehe one more question, is there any smooth tyres, like say off a zuma or something which would fit on the front wheels? would some small smooth tyres be much of a beneit or not so worth it compared to stock knobbies? what gearing would complement those tyres best? as it is right now, i can launch decently enough with my oem dunlops in second gear. half the time i do a 6 inch tall 15 foot long wheelie off the line to give you a perspective. will cpi or shearer pipes work better for dragging than my toomey t5's even though my motor is NOT bored or ported? hell ive never even had cylinders off this motor, and its got perfect compression. 149psi in each cylinder. i kind of was under the impression that cpi or shearer were only for ported motors, and would make a non ported motor way too peaky that it would not be very usable except at super high rpm's. also can the front brakes be removed without opening up the hoses and pipes? maybe i could remove the front brakes for dragging but i dont want to do it if i have to open the system and bleed the fuckers each time i get home. if i could remove the front brakes as a complete assembly, i would consider it. whats all involved in getting the carbs bored? i have a machinist buddy that will do them for free but i would need to know the specs of how much to bore them, if the bore is an oval or circular, what angle, etc. i have a feeling that shops who do this already wouldnt exactly divulge the info freely. i guess c&r is not doing drags anymore? thats what i heard, so ill be joining you guys up at bithlo and possibly other tracks. i live in palm beach half the time and sebring the other half, so bithlo is either 150 miles away or 50 miles away. does anyone have a guide on cutting off excess tabs and brackets on the banshee frame? i know i have seen people go as far as to frmove entire pipes as well as unused tabs and frame gussets for drag racing, but i still trail ride this banshee so i wouldnt want to remove anything thats going to make it weak. but i do need to get lighter and quicker. last time i raced freakin methyman's son beat me. he probably weigh 140ls, thats about 120lbs less than i weigh! so i got to do some things to even up the field. i came up and congradulated him too. nice kid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 You can remove the WHOLE brake system on front without opening a line. But...you'll have to be careful to not get air in the system...so I'd overfill the resevoir when taking it off to be safe. It's not the drag, it's the weight savings. VForce would be a waste to me without a ported motor, others my disagree... Neither pipe, CPI or Shearer is going to run as well as it should without porting...but, of the two for your needs, CPI will be better. They come on sooner...and have a broader power span than Shearer.... Tires are key!!! Smoothies up front will always help, way less drag. You can remove the pipe tabs, air box tabs, heel guard tabs....minimal weight savings, but...cleans it up a bit. Those rules are pretty tight...gonna be hard after that. I kinda browsed this thread....you have higher compression...did you bump the timing too? What about a shaved flywheel? (Sorry if you already covered that...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted June 13, 2007 Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 I'm kinda leanin towards tryin a high timing run to see how it does. If you run high enough octane you should be ok because your compression is still in the safe range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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