LIM_Whiteboy4life Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 Well like its stated my dad says that it can break and fall apart on the track and its very unstable at high speeds down the track because of the short wheelbase. So he says i have to get full leathers and a shell helmet for me to ride (not for the track but my dad is freakin out) anyway ive raced it on the street before and i have no problems besides having tire slime in the front tires and it causes it to shake on the top of 6th gear. What i have to solve this are stock front tires/wheels. I plan on taking my skids, nerf bars, and front bumper off just for test and tune. i dont plan on racing professionally, just for fun and too see where the stock motor lies as of now. My mods are in my sig and i have 22" rears so i dont think i will top out too quickly before reaching the finish. Any input will be great.. thanks :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynodon Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 Cant blame him for that, After all he would probably be the one to pay any medical expenses you may accidentaly need. SAFETY, SAFTEY !!!! Now for the "stability" part, a stock banshe should be more stabil than a full blown drag bike due to the fact on a full out drag bike the overall width is only 40" wide. Just ahve to be careful when launching to NOT let it come over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06BaNsHeE Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 If you want to launch better tie down the front with tie downs.But It works awesome for me and many others around me because we use stock tires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted May 27, 2007 Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 mine wasnt too far from stock when i went to the asphalt track. It was very stable. I almost stood it all the way up on the first run but you learn to feather it and all is well. It's gonna take some time before you can launch it well off the sticky asphalt at a track. Full leathers isnt a bad idea, the more protection the better....just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LIM_Whiteboy4life Posted May 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2007 (edited) Well i talked to my pops and we aggreed on wearing his leather jacket, kevlar gloves, jean pants, boots, and a Snell approved full face helmet. Now.... should i be in the 9.6's maybe? this is with everything off the front end and maybe some straps on the front. My first passes are gonna be slow as balls coming out of the hole the first few times since i havent hit the street with the new clutch yet. Edited May 27, 2007 by LIM_Whiteboy4life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 You may want to get some "struts" made. Figure out the ride height you want and get a machine shop (or metal shop at a VOTECH high school) to make them for you. I played with my shock settings front and rear and then i went "rigid" with the struts. I am more consistant and quicker with the strut set-up. Just make sure that the center to center distance on the front are within .005 inch to one another. Another thing is to run the fronts at max pressure for the tire to lower rolling resistance. Drag racing is addictive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 hmm, you might be under a 9.6. I ran a 9.3 my second run and i cant launch too well. It's all about the launch IMO. Just slip the clutch to shift and slam a gear up, rinse and repeat. If you got the power, start off in 2nd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96bansheepilot Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 yeah, u should be better than 9.6...... prob. low 9's......with just about 50 bucks, u could probably shave a few more tenths by getting some solid struts from lowes for the front. i used 1.25" square steel bar sold in there metal and steel section(15.00). i cut them to identical lengths (13" from eyelet to eyelet) and they bolt right in.........as for the rear, u can get a lowering link(35.00 on ebay). .........by the way, those 22's in the rear will kill you.....get 20's.....much lighter. but if you get them just for drag, u may as well get american racers. by the way, i started out just like u and now i have a full blown drag bike and a spare stock shee for the dirt. i was hooked after one trip!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LIM_Whiteboy4life Posted June 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 I might add that im running stock gearing and thats why I wanted to keep the 22"s on the rear to keep from over reving. I will bring both sets of tires(i got stockers also) and do a trial and error and see what works best. I will do everything that is stated above also, tire pressure, make the shocks as stiff as possible (preload, firmness, straps, ect.) i dont know about running struts on a stock swingarm... might do a wheel stand on me, but if i get the addiction it might change alot of things.... thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96bansheepilot Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 u r not gonna over rev w/ a stock gear and 20's. also i was refering to a link for the rear. you would keep your shock and suspension for the rear.. it would just lower the rear of the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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