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How to adjust idle on TORS Eliminator Kit


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How much material needs to be taken off the bosses where the idle screws go. This is something I could do before I have all the parts just to get a head start. Also how many plugs are there that need undone? One on the throttle, e-brake, and one on each carb right? I have the vitos kit coming if that matters. Thanks

 

Kaos-- not trying to steal your thread, just get info. Sorry for jacking the thread.

 

 

you can drill it 1'st, & measure the hole depth compared to the screw length, the boss' are usually just A tad to deap to reach the slide & still have threads to adj.

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I think it was somr where around 20 mm off the side of the carb. once you grind the boss flat your pretty close. I ground mine alittle further though to make more room for the jam nut. After you tap the boss run the screw with the jam nut on in. You can see the slide start to lift up. Then you will know for sure you have enough room. I got my carbs put back on the bike before i realisied i didnt grind them down far enough and had to take every thing apart again. :shoothead:

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How much material needs to be taken off the bosses where the idle screws go. This is something I could do before I have all the parts just to get a head start. Also how many plugs are there that need undone? One on the throttle, e-brake, and one on each carb right? I have the vitos kit coming if that matters. Thanks

 

Kaos-- not trying to steal your thread, just get info. Sorry for jacking the thread.

 

Just in case you did not know, you will need a good grade of tapping oil.

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just to add a bit to this, when i removed mine, i forgot to unplug the little black box up under the left fender which made it hard to idle. but when i unplug the emergency brake, it won't run past like 2000 rpms, i thought that when everything else was unplugged, i was also supposed to unplug the emergency brake plug with it plugged in, the bike runs fine. about syncronizing the carbs, make sure they respond at the same time when you first press the throttle, and go to wide open and there is a sight glass on the side of each carb, and a little ball looking thing will appear, you can adjust the two cables this way

Edited by luv2rideaz
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How much material needs to be taken off the bosses where the idle screws go. This is something I could do before I have all the parts just to get a head start. Also how many plugs are there that need undone? One on the throttle, e-brake, and one on each carb right? I have the vitos kit coming if that matters. Thanks

 

Kaos-- not trying to steal your thread, just get info. Sorry for jacking the thread.

 

No it's cool, it's not that hard of a kit to install. But one very important thing to remember when putting the kit on is

 

1. make sure when you take the old tors off that you replace the sleeve, spring, etc. on the correct side it was originally on to the new carb cap. For example when your sitting on the bike i wouldn't take the left carb cap old tors off and switch it to the other side. Helps if everything goes back into it's original carb.

 

 

just to add a bit to this, when i removed mine, i forgot to unplug the little black box up under the left fender which made it hard to idle. but when i unplug the emergency brake, it won't run past like 2000 rpms, i thought that when everything else was unplugged, i was also supposed to unplug the emergency brake plug with it plugged in, the bike runs fine. about syncronizing the carbs, make sure they respond at the same time when you first press the throttle, and go to wide open and there is a sight glass on the side of each carb, and a little ball looking thing will appear, you can adjust the two cables this way

 

yeah i read the instructions through and through and after getting to that part i looked up the schematics on where that part is just to make sure i was unplugging the correct one.

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No prob guys! Taking pics sometimes helps finding your way back in case forget where something goes. I remember taking the carb tors caps off, removing little black box under the left side of tank, Ebrake & all cables but clutch cable & plug from the thumb throttle. I used black RTV to seal that hole. I flattened the bosses + a tad more.. When tapping.. do a few threads then back out the tap to remove those shavings, then proceed & again back it out. You don't want the shavings ruining the fresh threads. You only drill a few mm & the tap is soft so you should finish pretty quick. Once everything bolted back on & fired her up, I followed the receiving plugs & removed them from the harness. Things should clean up pretty well once completed.

BrakeLines002.jpg

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Little black box? Do i need to do this? I unplugged the ebrake, the throttle, and the two things on the tors. Does this little black box need unhooked too?

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Little black box? Do i need to do this? I unplugged the ebrake, the throttle, and the two things on the tors. Does this little black box need unhooked too?

Oh yeah, remove that thing. It's part of the TORS system which you don't need. Throw it out! Also, as I'm working thru my bike I'm replacing stock bolts with allen heads & can't stress enough how easy & convinient it is to work with the allens.. I replaced the carb bowl bolts with allens and it's a sinch when cleaning carbs or rejetting :thumbsup:

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Cool, i will get it out of there tomorrow. Yeah, allen heads are nice for everything. I am going to put them on these carb bowls for sure.

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im about to finish my mine today, which means the drilling and tapping part. only question i have is, do you drill all the way through to where the slide is? Then you put the idle screws in, and follow the directions for synching the carbs and making it idle?

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