Snopczynski Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Well first I pull the clutch cover off and find a broken EBC clutch spring. Yeah, stay away from ebc stuff, I have had it with their clutch components. Next I installed the Cascade Heavy Duty clutch, no problem. Ok, so now I got the cascade hub adjuster deal with the pancake bearing. Its to replace the stock one so the ball does not weld itself to it. Anyone put one in? I put it in with washer, bearing, washer on bottom of hub. Set the adjuster so the arrow lined up on the case with the clutch lever cable slack taken up and I tightened the nut on the adjuster. So basically I used only the stuff that came in the cascade shrink pack plus I left the ball in there. Is this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Well first I pull the clutch cover off and find a broken EBC clutch spring. Yeah, stay away from ebc stuff, I have had it with their clutch components. Next I installed the Cascade Heavy Duty clutch, no problem. Ok, so now I got the cascade hub adjuster deal with the pancake bearing. Its to replace the stock one so the ball does not weld itself to it. Anyone put one in? I put it in with washer, bearing, washer on bottom of hub. Set the adjuster so the arrow lined up on the case with the clutch lever cable slack taken up and I tightened the nut on the adjuster. So basically I used only the stuff that came in the cascade shrink pack plus I left the ball in there. Is this right? Everything is right, except the clutch arm on the case needs to be about 1/4" past the arrow on the case, to the stator side. I just put mine in, and adjusted it last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 yup you got it right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 (edited) Everything is right, except the clutch arm on the case needs to be about 1/4" past the arrow on the case, to the stator side. I just put mine in, and adjusted it last night. The arm is about that far toward the stator side when you are not touching the clutch lever at all. Is that what you are referring to? I do know its always been pointed straight at the arrow when you just put a little pressure on the lever and take the slack out of the cable and you can start to feel it tension up. Pic of the adjuster installed in the hub on the bike. The housing is all that sticks out with nothing on the outside correct? This is the pointer without touching the lever at all. This is with the lever pulled in a little bit until tension is felt. The arrows line up exactly. Is this right? Edited May 23, 2007 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 The arm is about that far toward the stator side when you are not touching the clutch lever at all. Is that what you are referring to? I do know its always been pointed straight at the arrow when you just put a little pressure on the lever and take the slack out of the cable and you can start to feel it tension up. Pic of the adjuster installed in the hub on the bike. The housing is all that sticks out with nothing on the outside correct? This is the pointer without touching the lever at all. This is with the lever pulled in a little bit until tension is felt. The arrows line up exactly. Is this right? You've got it adjusted right, according to the pics, and your description. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted May 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Hopefully I got it right with installing the adjuster, I am just freaked out cause I have never seen one or installed one before. The stock one is layed out different so it was nerve racking. If anyone sees something they dont think is right pipe up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twyztid Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Are these pancake adjusters worth it for a very mildly modified 'shee with only pipes & K&N filter that will I will be running on both sand dunes & trails? I have seen a lot of "gimmick" parts before for other things that I get into repairing/modding myself so I want to find out if anyone really thinks there is a benefit for this part for just normal all-around use. No racing or anything. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 I just wanted to add that the cascade pancake bearing wont work with the hinson pressure plate.. Not unless they changed them in the last 3-4 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Are these pancake adjusters worth it for a very mildly modified 'shee with only pipes & K&N filter that will I will be running on both sand dunes & trails? I have seen a lot of "gimmick" parts before for other things that I get into repairing/modding myself so I want to find out if anyone really thinks there is a benefit for this part for just normal all-around use. No racing or anything. Kevin The outer clutch basket holds the fibers. When the engine is idling in gear with the clutch pulled in the outer basket and fibers spin. They are driven by the engine. The inner clutch hub holds the flat steels. When the engine is Idleing in gear with the clutch pulled in the inner clutch hub is stopped. The clutch hub drives the transmission. The outer pressure plate is hooked to the inner clutch hub with the 6 bolts and 6 clutch springs. So when the inner hub is turning the outer pressur plate is turning as well. You can set all you want with your banshee running in gear with the clutch pulled in and it wont weld the ball and rod. This is because the only thing spinning is the Outer Clutch Basket and Fibers. You role down a hill with your engine Idling in gear with the clutch pulled in. Now the inner hub is spinning faster than the outer clutch basket. The pressure of the clutch springs pushing on the rod and ball and the spinning of the ball welds it to the rod. If you ride right you shouldnt need a pancake mod. Most people install them because of the Insurance Factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twyztid Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 (edited) The outer clutch basket holds the fibers. When the engine is idling in gear with the clutch pulled in the outer basket and fibers spin. They are driven by the engine. The inner clutch hub holds the flat steels. When the engine is Idleing in gear with the clutch pulled in the inner clutch hub is stopped. The clutch hub drives the transmission. The outer pressure plate is hooked to the inner clutch hub with the 6 bolts and 6 clutch springs. So when the inner hub is turning the outer pressur plate is turning as well. You can set all you want with your banshee running in gear with the clutch pulled in and it wont weld the ball and rod. This is because the only thing spinning is the Outer Clutch Basket and Fibers. You role down a hill with your engine Idling in gear with the clutch pulled in. Now the inner hub is spinning faster than the outer clutch basket. The pressure of the clutch springs pushing on the rod and ball and the spinning of the ball welds it to the rod. If you ride right you shouldnt need a pancake mod. Most people install them because of the Insurance Factor. Well, I do plan on taking it to Silver Lake sand dunes once I get everything wrapped up on it. I have never ridden an atv of any sort there yet but I am assuming that some of the hills I will end up coasting down the back side with the clutch in. So you are saying that this is what welds the ball to the rod? Kevin Edited September 26, 2007 by Twyztid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilarious Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 If you ride right you shouldnt need a pancake mod. Who does that? :shrug: +1 on the cascade pancake adjuster. I like it cause it has the allen head screw in it instead of the phillips head stocker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeDan Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Who does that? :shrug: +1 on the cascade pancake adjuster. I like it cause it has the allen head screw in it instead of the phillips head stocker. i just put one in my bike a month or so ago... not only does it help keep the ball/rod from welding together,it also makes clutch engagement ALOT smoother.. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twyztid Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 OK, so this is a good mod even for the average rider (no racing) and has REAL benefits? It's not just hype or a part needed for only racing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twyztid Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Is the one in the link below the same thing as the Cascade one you are referring to (or the F.A.S.T. one)? Pancake Adjuster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyRay Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Is the one in the link below the same thing as the Cascade one you are referring to (or the F.A.S.T. one)? Pancake Adjuster That one is not the fast one. Must be someones copy. I have the fast kit and it is a great mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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