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5mm Billet Crank


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Ive seen his 5mm cranks.There really reliable And I saw one of his customers 5mm cub VS 4mm cub and he pretty much walked him 1-6.So knowone has had experience with them.I cant wait to line up against people and see there faces when a bike that looks stock is hanging with them or beating them lol

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4mm vs 5mm doesnt mean shit really. rider ability, tires, gearing, swingarm..just general setup will play a huge part in how a bike runs and gets out of the hole.. ive seen 350 motors flat out spank 4mm motors, so dont rely on what you saw too much.

 

most people are going to tell you that the 4mm is the common way to go. its reliable, easy to get parts for and its very cost effective.

 

i think you need to talk to some other builders. i dont know why any builder would be recommending a 5mm motor over a 4mm motor..

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a race is 80% rider, 20% setup... and of the 20% setup its 75% suspension and gearing and 25% motor...

 

theres more to winning a race then slapping big parts in a motor

 

id stick with whats been proven time and time again.. dont fix whats not broke.

 

Edit: also a 4 mil produces about 7% more power ovr stock. so the extra 1mm of stroke your looking at half a percent... whats the price of this 5mil?

 

also a side note to make sure we are all on the same page... your talking about a 5mil stroker and not a 5mil long rod correct? those are two differant things.

Edited by Bansh-eman
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5mm because those are the cranks he gets.Hes proven that his bikes can run.Shearers and MAYBE big carbs but I want the airbox.His engines are reliable as shit.They go Fast.Its a little more expensive but I think it is worth it.And if your wondering sheares and airbox.He gets custom silencers to fit the airbox.And yes 5mm stroker.

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I guess Ill just wait for the 7mm.But it is a little more expensive because trenching the cases

Don't want to trench then get the 4mm... Its your money bro and obviously you can do whatever you want but what your saying so far doesn't make sense.. All signs for what you wanna do and what your after points to doing the 4mm vs any other.. :shrug:

 

RIPPEN

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Don't want to trench then get the 4mm... Its your money bro and obviously you can do whatever you want but what your saying so far doesn't make sense.. All signs for what you wanna do and what your after points to doing the 4mm vs any other.. :shrug:

 

RIPPEN

 

 

I guess I should make myself clearer.He always has 5mm cranks with him.He always builds 5mm cubs and 5mm stock cylinders and they seem to run hard and really reliable.And everyone seems to like building 5mm over 4mm.I realy just wanted to know if anyone has run them because I never see anyones sig say 5mm cub or w/e.Ive ridden plenty of cubs.Have had my own.And I just dont like them.Not for my type of riding.Is there really no difference between 4mm over 5mm?

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dude, call around..EVERYONE is not running the 5mm cranks. EVERYONE is running the 4mm. im not so sure you know what youre talking about. the 4mm is proven the most reliable and cost effective setup. parts are cheap and readily available. if you were gonna go with a 7mm, then you might as well go with a 10mm. they are the same money. i just dont see how youre gonna sit here and argue with all of us about the difference between the 4mm and 5mm. ask around here on this site and see how many 5mm cubs there are. and then ask how many 4mm cubs there are..youll get your answer..and also, why did you even post this up if you werent gonna take anyones advice??

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