96_banshee_96 Posted May 8, 2007 Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 Ok I seem to have lost my help so I am going to put this back together myself. Just got my cylinders back from the shop and I cant wait any longer to get this beast put back together and up and running Just a few questions for the motor experts. When I put the yamabond on the cases how long do I have before the shit dries. I dont want to get one half nice and covered and have it dry as im putting some on the other half of the case. Also should I put some yamabond around my crank gaskets and the gasket on the chain sprocket side. I want to make sure this bish isnt going to leak. When installing the vitos crank seals the springs should be facing out correct? This is all I can think of right now. I will be doing this tomorrow afternoon. If I have any problems im counting on you guys to walk me through them. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFIC Posted May 8, 2007 Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 (edited) Check this post out from BigRed350X. CLICK HERE Edited May 8, 2007 by MFIC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96_banshee_96 Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 Check this post out from BigRed350X. CLICK HERE Yea I saw that but it realy doesnt answer the questions I asked. That is a nice guide on taking the motor apart though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted May 8, 2007 Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 the yamabond goes on all metal surfaces that touch... so around the outside edge and all the flat parts in the middle.. it dries farly fast but not in 5 min... just get it on ther without taking forever but dont rush it and get a half ass job either... you have enough time to put a good clean coat on both halfs and put them together... and yes the metl springs face away from the crank on the seals... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian25 Posted May 8, 2007 Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 what could be used instead of yamabond? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96_banshee_96 Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 what could be used instead of yamabond? Damn hijacking my thread ehh lol. There is some stuff that is called 3 bond that is suppose to be just as good as yamabond. I believe the thread I made a few pages over is still there. If you wanna check It out its the one titled yamabond vs. 3 bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam2 Posted May 8, 2007 Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 three bond "1211". i've used both and both work well. the 1211 is a little thinner and easier to work with and a little easier to clean up when you need to remove it from metal surfaces. the down side is that it costs more than yamabond. when i use the three bond i only put it on one case half. you don't need alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96_banshee_96 Posted May 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 Does the number on the seals go in or out. On the back of the seals there is green. These seals look different from the ones that were in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian25 Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 sorry didnt mean to hack ur post....just seen it and realized that ima need sumin but have no yamabond, and thnx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swrbansheeboy Posted May 10, 2007 Report Share Posted May 10, 2007 if you think about how tight your case halves fit together you will see that you only need to put sealant on one half of the cases.also anything in the bottom end that needs to be sealed tight has a rubber seal so no need to coat the seals or bearings. grab a tube of rtv sealant and steal the applicator tip to put on your tube of yamabond or whatever sealant you choose to use and put a decent bead of sealant around the bottom case half then drop the top on. just make sure the tabs on your crank bearings are all turned down so they fit into the notches on the bottom case half before you put the top on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Keith Posted May 10, 2007 Report Share Posted May 10, 2007 Remember to torque the engine in the recommended steps as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96_banshee_96 Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2007 If I rember correctly the head and cylinders should be torqued to 20. But what does the cases have to be torqued to??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted May 10, 2007 Report Share Posted May 10, 2007 yea but you dont want to take it stright to 20... do it in increments... 10 15 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96_banshee_96 Posted May 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2007 Yea I know that but do you know what the cases should be torqued to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swrbansheeboy Posted May 11, 2007 Report Share Posted May 11, 2007 (edited) i'm the worst at this but i think it's 8 and 18 ft lbs. my book is at the shop...check this out...pg 144 http://www.sandwizards.com/Service_Manuals/Banshee.pdf tighten 9-16 to 3.6 ft lbs tighten 1-8 to 7.2 ft lbs tighten 1-8 to 18 ft lbs tighten 9-16 to 7.2 ft lbs so basicly the top bolts(10 millimeter) end up being 7.2 and the bottom bolts(12 millemeter) end up being 18... Edited May 11, 2007 by swrbansheeboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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