FireHead Posted May 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2007 So your going to use some expoxy and glue the clear window in? I guess I will have to take a look at the design when it gets here. I figured that the window would be threaded and the inside of the cap would be threaded. Put an oring on there and scew them toghether. Like you said before though the problem is that only one company is making them. :biggrin: Yeah, I put epoxy on the od of the plastics window and then assembled it into the aluminum cap body. The construction of the cap is kind of hokey. You'll have to check it out when you get yours. The plastic piece is retained in the aluminum body by the previously discussed o-ring in a groove. There isn't ant threading involved. The threading idea is a good one, but it would be a more expensive process and I am not sure that Pro-Tek would even have the capability to do that kind of machine work in a production fashion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted May 7, 2007 Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 so the only thing that holds the clear window in is it snaps in to the aluminum body? I would have figured it would have been at least set up like a glass jar when you can fruits, and vegies. The one pice clear window sealing against the top surface of the theaded part of the fuel tank and then the aluminm part is just used to clamp it down. You know of any kind of epoxy that I could get that would hold up to the fuel and still work with polycarbonate plastic and aluminum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregbowler Posted May 7, 2007 Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 JB Weld? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted May 7, 2007 Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 JB Weld? I used jb weld on a cracked carb bowl. put a little on the inside to get by until i got a new one. The gas eventually deterioated the jb weld. made it soft and flexable. Wonder if yamah bond would work? That would probably seal it up. There isnt to many things you can buy over the counter that will hold up to gas over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted May 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 so the only thing that holds the clear window in is it snaps in to the aluminum body? I would have figured it would have been at least set up like a glass jar when you can fruits, and vegies. The one pice clear window sealing against the top surface of the theaded part of the fuel tank and then the aluminm part is just used to clamp it down. You know of any kind of epoxy that I could get that would hold up to the fuel and still work with polycarbonate plastic and aluminum? The only thing that holds the clear window in is the o-ring. It's kind of hard to explain, but pretty straight forward once you have a cap in your hands to look at. I will go look and see what the p/n for the epoxy that I used was, when I get home from work. I know it was a 3M product, but I can't remember which one. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted May 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 I used jb weld on a cracked carb bowl. put a little on the inside to get by until i got a new one. The gas eventually deterioated the jb weld. made it soft and flexable. Wonder if yamah bond would work? That would probably seal it up. There isnt to many things you can buy over the counter that will hold up to gas over time. There are two problems I see with JB Weld: 1.)It is solvent in petroleum (since it is a petroluom based product). However it is fuel resistant to a certain extent. 2.)It's grey and quite unsightly (the bond area is highly visible). Beyond that, the cap was not designed to have an adhesive used there, so the bond gap is not ideal. A clear, bi-mtellic compatible epoxy is the best choice here, but many of them use a solvent that is offensive to polycarbonate (the clear window plastic). An inappropriate epoxy atleast cloud the plastic, if not completely degrade it. As a side note, there are many really neat adhesives out there that are available to the general public, but you have to know what you're looking for. Some of the best epoxy's out there for sale to the general public are marketed or advertised in a way that might make you think that the product is a gimmick or very simply packaged (which might make you choose a different epoxy). :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted May 7, 2007 Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 The only thing that holds the clear window in is the o-ring. It's kind of hard to explain, but pretty straight forward once you have a cap in your hands to look at. I will go look and see what the p/n for the epoxy that I used was, when I get home from work. I know it was a 3M product, but I can't remember which one. :thumbsup: I would apprecat it if you could get me the number of the product that you used. It was a clear epoxy? never seen that suff before. Thanks again firehead. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 I would apprecat it if you could get me the number of the product that you used. It was a clear epoxy? never seen that suff before. Thanks again firehead. :thumbsup: It was a clear'ish epoxy. Keep in mind that I call most multi-part adhesives "epoxy," when in reality I should be calling them adhesives. After finish eating my baked beans for dinner I will go look up the part number in my garage. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam2 Posted May 8, 2007 Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 It was a clear'ish epoxy. Keep in mind that I call most multi-part adhesives "epoxy," when in reality I should be calling them adhesives. After finish eating my baked beans for dinner I will go look up the part number in my garage. :thumbsup: stay away from the torches while you're in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 stay away from the torches while you're in the garage. I bought a proper shop air compressor yesterday, so I cna just blow any fumes I may exhaust out through the garage door. :laugh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam2 Posted May 8, 2007 Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 I bought a proper shop air compressor yesterday, so I cna just blow any fumes I may exhaust out through the garage door. :laugh: good, i would hate for you to blow up your garage. i'm sure you have some nice tools in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 I would apprecat it if you could get me the number of the product that you used. It was a clear epoxy? never seen that suff before. Thanks again firehead. :thumbsup: Alright, it is a Permatex product who's item# is 84101. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted May 8, 2007 Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 Alright, it is a Permatex product who's item# is 84101. :thumbsup: Alright thanks. I will probably just go ahead and do that before I even put it on. That way it is clean and oil free. So this is the stuff. Do you think it will turn yellow after being exposed to fuel? Permitex 5 min General Purpose Epoxy LINK Thanks again it is much apprecated for all of your help. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 Alright thanks. I will probably just go ahead and do that before I even put it on. That way it is clean and oil free. I would make sure that you go over both parts very lightly with acetone before glueing them together. That way you know you have a clean bonding surface. :thumbsup: I am probably going to buy another one of their caps for my drag bike and I will do the same thing you are going to do right when I get it. i haven't decided on a color yet, but I am leaning towards the silver if it is actually anodized that color and is not bare aluminum as the alcohol will make it look bad really fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted May 8, 2007 Report Share Posted May 8, 2007 I would make sure that you go over both parts very lightly with acetone before glueing them together. That way you know you have a clean bonding surface. :thumbsup: Ok i will do that. I usually have plenty of acetone on hand. I use that for cleaning my pipes. Wet a rag down and do that for the final wipe down. Best way to get finger print free shiny chrome, because you dont even have any oil left on your fingers to leave prints. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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