dawarriorman Posted May 5, 2007 Report Share Posted May 5, 2007 (edited) You're extending the wheel further out from the spindle (same thing as wheel spacers). You're increasing the leverage, and therefore you are increasing stress (its just like slipping a pipe over a wrench handle). You might go for years without problems, then again you might just break the spindle in a month. That has happened, I've seen the broken spindles. It could be a balljoint that eats it. Do it if you want, but its not the best way. Oh, and it is very possible to jump the hell out of a stock shee. I took mine on the track all the time with stock shocks. They would heat up quick, so you only get a couple good laps. And you've got to nail the landings. Edited May 5, 2007 by dawarriorman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThE_BaNsHeE_mAn88 Posted May 6, 2007 Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 like he^^^ said its not a good idea you are adding extra stress on everything. but do it if you want. Derick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted May 6, 2007 Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 I'm not disagreeing with you, I'm saying it's not an immediate problem for the way most people ride. Exactly, you've got to nail the landings when jumping big on a stock suspended shee. You know as well as I that doesn't always happen though and with stock suspension if you're going big something's going to give when you don't quite land right. That's all I was trying to say. You can jump as big as you want with the stock susp. but it's not wise, expecially with inverted rims. For casual riding, recreational trails, dunes, small jumps ect there should be no increased problems aside from trail feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWILES Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 My problem with flipping the wheels is that with the positive camber the Banshee has, it actually pushed out worse than with the tires on right. As for more stress, turning the wheels around isn't any harder on anything than using 4+1's and I never had a problem I didn't have before. That is a nice looking bike above my post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 My problem with flipping the wheels is that with the positive camber the Banshee has, it actually pushed out worse than with the tires on right. As for more stress, turning the wheels around isn't any harder on anything than using 4+1's and I never had a problem I didn't have before. That is a nice looking bike above my post. It IS harder than long a-arms. Its not the stress on the frame that your worried about, its the stress on the spindle and everything connected to it that you are worried about (wheel bearings, a-arm ball joints, the spindle itself). Re-read my post carefully. With the wheels in stock form, the centerline of the wheel (where the weight is coming from basically) is right close to the spindle (wrench with short handle). With spacers or flipped wheels, you move that centerline further away from the spindle. Youre adding a longer handle to everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cd07 Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 I flipped mine around for flat tracks and it worked fine for me. Its been that way for 2 years. I ordered a set of flush mount valve stems from summit. They were about $20 but then no new holes to drill. Then if you want to you can run the tires either way. WORKS GREAT FOR ME :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrymaxx Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 I am a beleiver in flipped rims. Yamaha balljoints are tough as hell. I jumped my blaster high enough to break 2 shocks, and rolled it good enough to bent 2 spindles. After years, the balljoints are still tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 Can someone explain to me how you bend a shock? I just dont see it happening as a direct result of flipping the wheels. Now if you flip the wheels, break a lower BJ, and stab the lower control arm in the ground at 65 MPH, then I see more than one bent piece of metal in your future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 I am a beleiver in flipped rims. Yamaha balljoints are tough as hell. I jumped my blaster high enough to break 2 shocks, and rolled it good enough to bent 2 spindles. After years, the balljoints are still tight. Ok, so your balljoints are fine, but you bent spindles. That wasn't expensive enough? (not saying flipped rims was the only cause, but it contributed). gimmeabeer, As far as Ive seen, bent shocks just tend to be one of those fluke things. I've seen an Axis shock bent so bad it would make you cry, and everything else was fine (Roll front end). I've seen stock shocks bend while taking out both a-arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWILES Posted May 10, 2007 Report Share Posted May 10, 2007 I read what you said and agree about more stress being on the spindle BUT I ran 4+1's on MX tracks for a while and never had a problem. Just because the bulk of the wheel is on the inside doesn't make it any easier on the spindle. You just moved the center out instead of in. You can argue and call me stupid all you want. I've tried it and it does fine with them turned out. It doesn't turn as good but its more stable. You have a good point and you are right but its just not that dramatic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMOORE1234 Posted July 2, 2008 Report Share Posted July 2, 2008 I flipped mine around for flat tracks and it worked fine for me. Its been that way for 2 years. I ordered a set of flush mount valve stems from summit. They were about $20 but then no new holes to drill. Then if you want to you can run the tires either way. WORKS GREAT FOR ME :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: Do you know the stock # of the valve stems you got from Summit?? Thanks..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedder Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Do you know the stock # of the valve stems you got from Summit?? Thanks..... I have a brand new set of flush mount valve stems from Wicked I'll sell for $15.00 plus the ride. The package has never been opened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny boy Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 I have a brand new set of flush mount valve stems from Wicked I'll sell for $15.00 plus the ride. The package has never been opened. you can go to ebay and pick up a set of (4) for 14.00 plus the ride ...look up" flush mount valve stems" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedder Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 you can go to ebay and pick up a set of (4) for 14.00 plus the ride ...look up" flush mount valve stems" How nice....I paid $20.00 for them a year ago from Wicked. That's usually how things go for me LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbAnyHill Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 You can also pick them up at cycle gear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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