Justintoxicated Posted April 30, 2007 Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 Yea so I had a little disaster this last weekend, Somehow I spun the locknut off for the clutch adjustment rod and it bounced all around in my case and caused some damage. Mostly digs all over the inside of me new Mattoon Cover My Lockup clutch got beat up a bit as well, So I'm going to just replace it even though it would probably still work fine it just bugs me. The nut appears to be to the right side of the clutch in that little pocket like area near the gears. We pulled the side to the cover for the lockup (not the whole side case cover) but were not able to pull it out (tried a powerful magnet) I have not had the opportunity to pull the side case completely off since it was 105 deg or so at the dunes and I didn't have anything to drain the oil into. So what would cause this nut to come loose? I have been running this setup all year and not had any problems, never came off the stock setup either and I have been in there a few times before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlsparky7 Posted April 30, 2007 Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 Isnt there supposed to be a lock washer on that nut? Im not quite sure which nut your talking about, pics would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted April 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 (edited) Isnt there supposed to be a lock washer on that nut? Im not quite sure which nut your talking about, pics would help. No pics available Bike is 100+ miles away... Parts 12 & 13 are somewhere in the side case: Edited April 30, 2007 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted April 30, 2007 Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 (edited) im trying to picture it in my head sitting here at work... but the nut on the adjuster should be attached to that shaft that has the actual nut inside it? i dont recall it being seperate? but i could be wrong. id have to look at mine to say for sure, its been awhile looking at one. edit: those link dont work like that if you open it up it takes you to the first page... 2nd Edit: oh ok your using a stock adjuster? not the pancake bearing with the hex head?only thing i can think of is it just got viberated loose and came off... casue the outside nut and washer just pinches against part 10 to hold against the pressure plate.did you do any clutch work latley and maybe not get it nice and snug? Edited April 30, 2007 by Bansh-eman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted April 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 (edited) im trying to picture it in my head sitting here at work... but the nut on the adjuster should be attached to that shaft that has the actual nut inside it? i dont recall it being seperate? but i could be wrong. id have to look at mine to say for sure, its been awhile looking at one. edit: those link dont work like that if you open it up it takes you to the first page... 2nd Edit: oh ok your using a stock adjuster? not the pancake bearing with the hex head?only thing i can think of is it just got viberated loose and came off... casue the outside nut and washer just pinches against part 10 to hold against the pressure plate.did you do any clutch work latley and maybe not get it nice and snug? No your right I'm using the pancake bearing and I don't remember what it looks like either! So what fell off exactly and why? I don't remember there being any Hex head maybe I got a POS Pancake? I have not done any clutchwork since the beginning of the season when I installed it. I'm skeptical on keepin the pancake bearing at this point. I'd rather weld the rod than trash my whole motor. Edited April 30, 2007 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted April 30, 2007 Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 if your using the pancake... i dont think those two are on there... i want to say the inner shaft and the outside nut are all one hex head bolt that pushes against the wash and then thqt part 10 to hold against the pressure plate... make any scence? if im thinking right.... i dont see something coming off there...maybe else where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted April 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 (edited) if your using the pancake... i dont think those two are on there... i want to say the inner shaft and the outside nut are all one hex head bolt that pushes against the wash and then thqt part 10 to hold against the pressure plate... make any scence? if im thinking right.... i dont see something coming off there...maybe else where? Sounds right except I don't remember a hexhead? I believe you hold it with a wrench and then screw in the inner shaft piece to adjust the clutch (i don't remember it was like ayear ago when I did it.) . Well whatever goes on the end of that adjustment shaft is what came off in my motor and fucked it all up. I didn't have any directions when I installed it maybe I will go back to stock next time around. I never welded my ball before anyways and that would have been a cheaper fix and not destroyed my case. Edited April 30, 2007 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted April 30, 2007 Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 i know that the stock one you hold with a wrench and adjust, but with the pancake i want to say they are allen head bolt and you dont have to use a wrench... but like i said im trying to go off my memory of how it looks and i cant remeber what i watched on tv last night much less this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted April 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 Probably depends on the pancake I believe min eis like this one. http://www.passionracingengines.com/Products.html Damn Jim has a good deal on that lockup too. I paid more and had to send my cover in and now it's a bit chewed up inside as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 it sounds like what happened to me with the cascade clutch adjustment thing. the bolt isnt long enough to get good threads on the bolt and nut. you need to get a longer bolt to where you can get more threads and get the nut tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted May 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 I guess there are 2 styles, mine does not use the Hex head, it uses the factory stud with the philips head on the end. Guess I will need to use locktight on it, Wish I would have known this BEFORE it tore up my cases, I did make sure it tighten it as much as possible, but you know how philips heads ore... Who is selling the pancake with the hex head I may as well cut my loss with this one and fork up another $40.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 cascade innovations clutch adjustment thing, cda, part number i think but just be warned if the bolt isnt long enough and you cant get plenty of threads get a new bolt like i did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted May 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 (edited) cascade innovations clutch adjustment thing, cda, part number i think but just be warned if the bolt isnt long enough and you cant get plenty of threads get a new bolt like i did. Wes, Not really sure what you mean man! I'm guess that the problem comes from Pulling the clutch in when the bike is reved up high, seems there would be more pressure on the pusher and ball and bolt and nut than the stock clutch due to the lockup, so the bolt can work it's way off easier. What I want to find is the pandcake with the allenhead instead of using the stock philips bolt. Edited May 1, 2007 by Justintoxicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesw Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 THIS CLUTCH ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT IS A MUST FOR ANY BANSHEE OWNER. IT REPLACES THE STOCK CLUTCH ADJUSTER AND INCORPORATES A FLAT ROLLER BEARING THAT WILL PREVENT THE CLUTCH INNER BALL BEARING FROM SEIZING. IT IS MADE FROM HIGH STRENGTH AIRCRAFT ALUMINUM AND IS DESIGNED SO IT CAN BE ADJUSTED IN THE SAME MANNER AS THE STOCK ONE, FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE CLUTCH BASKET. PACKARD ENTERPRISES HAS TESTED THESE IN THEIR BIKES FOR MORE THAN A YEAR AND THEY HAVE WORKED FLAWLESSLY. FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO LIKE TO HOLD THE CLUTCH LEVER IN WHEN YOUR COMING DOWN A STEEP HILL, THIS WILL PREVENT THE CLUTCH ADJUSTER FROM SEIZING. FOR THOSE WHO LIKE TO SAND DRAG, THERE IS AN ADDED BENEFIT, IT HELPS THE CLUTCH DISENGAGEMENT BE BOTH SMOOTER AND HELPS REDUCE CLUTCH DRAG. $ 49.95 Quantity: Clutch Disengagement Adjuster Part: CDA this is what im talkinga bout justin. dont know how to explain stuff to you any better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 THIS CLUTCH ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT IS A MUST FOR ANY BANSHEE OWNER. IT REPLACES THE STOCK CLUTCH ADJUSTER AND INCORPORATES A FLAT ROLLER BEARING THAT WILL PREVENT THE CLUTCH INNER BALL BEARING FROM SEIZING. IT IS MADE FROM HIGH STRENGTH AIRCRAFT ALUMINUM AND IS DESIGNED SO IT CAN BE ADJUSTED IN THE SAME MANNER AS THE STOCK ONE, FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE CLUTCH BASKET. PACKARD ENTERPRISES HAS TESTED THESE IN THEIR BIKES FOR MORE THAN A YEAR AND THEY HAVE WORKED FLAWLESSLY. FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO LIKE TO HOLD THE CLUTCH LEVER IN WHEN YOUR COMING DOWN A STEEP HILL, THIS WILL PREVENT THE CLUTCH ADJUSTER FROM SEIZING. FOR THOSE WHO LIKE TO SAND DRAG, THERE IS AN ADDED BENEFIT, IT HELPS THE CLUTCH DISENGAGEMENT BE BOTH SMOOTER AND HELPS REDUCE CLUTCH DRAG. $ 49.95 Quantity: Clutch Disengagement Adjuster Part: CDA this is what im talkinga bout justin. dont know how to explain stuff to you any better. LOL Yea, thats what I have but mine uses the stock stud/rod. I was told not to get this one when calling around today because the threaded stud/rod is not hardenend like the stock one. Also I swear the flat part was on the long side of mine, but I will have to check next time I'm in town. I'm thinking to get some red locktight to prevent it from coming out of adjustment again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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