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Solid strut material/construction.


CFM

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i used an umbrella pole from a large patio umbrella.. drilled some holes in each end after i cut it to the right length.

it works fine.

 

why use bushings? its not as if its a pivot point. its RIGID.

 

Main reason i bushed them is it is harder than the aluminum i used so it won't wear into an egg shaped hole.

Also OILITE weeps a small amount of oil when it is heated or exposed to pressure. makes it easy to get the bolts out and it looked good.

Edited by Toybreaker
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  • 4 weeks later...

Go to a local race car shop. Buy an aluminum swedge tube (they make various lengths, and various anodized colors).

 

Swedge tube and heims will run about $35-$40 for the whole setup, and the heims provide about 2inches of adjustment, up or down!

 

For spacers I use a set of old handle bars and cut off a piece to my desired length. Handle bars provide a nice clean looking polished aluminum spacer.

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Tools for free? Absolutely. I could probably get even cheaper than that. Use square bar with delrin bushings in the end, but adjustment is very nice.

 

I dunno.

 

If someone contacts me about it I'll look further into it.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Tools for free? Absolutely. I could probably get even cheaper than that. Use square bar with delrin bushings in the end, but adjustment is very nice.

If you are really interested in something cheap, then may we need to talk about my grease-draulic shock absorber. :geek:

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Custom materials? depends on the order. Im not making phenolic drag struts for weight saving purposes. ha.

 

But I do want to hear of the grease shock thingy. PM?

Can I get a set of struts made out of cheese? :biggrin:

 

This thread is probably dead enough that we can talk about my grease-draulic shock absorbers. I'll see if anyone bitches and about this and post something about them later. :geek:

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alright no one's belly achin' lets here it.

It's not all that impressive, in fact, it's not really even my idea...........................,but anyway its basically a piece of solid bar that slides inside a bit larger piece of tubing. Then, you fasten some rubber to the end of the bar and drill holes to suit your valving needs. After that, fill the tube with grease and assemble. As long as you do not over extend your new shock absorber it will work well enough to start and a finish a few SAE Mini Baja events. Fine tuning can be done with grease viscosity, but it is alot easier to poke more holes in or plug up holes in your "piston."

 

A couple of fun trivia questions on this topic:

 

1.) What was the first automotive application for a grease-draulic shock absorber?

 

2.) What is the most well know vehicle to use this type of shock absorber?

 

3.) What is a modern day, common application for this shock absorber?

 

:geek:

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