Big Bore Stroker Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 Whats up guys. Ok, I need some help here... this is my last resort We've been riding our 98 (Stock) Banshee like hell. It's been 9 years, and now she's fightin' us. She started boggin' every now and again when you hit the throttle while riding, but it corrected itself right away. Now, it idles great but as soon as you apply ANY throttle at all it bogs down (from idle to anything, breathe on the thing). If you hold the throttle down it will die, if you let it up it'll catch itself and return to perfect idle. What I've done: Been through the carb, cleaned jets, reset pilot air screws to stock (wasn't sure they weren't already, but they are now). Checked the reeds, cleaned the fuel lines/filter and cleaned the air filter. Everything is sealing great, theres no metal in the cylinder or oil. So, what would cause her to wanna die/bog when you apply even the slightest throttle? The TORS? I haven't looked into it, but I would assume a Throttle Override System could have something to do w/dying on throttle. Just totally stumped. I hope this is a common problem or something you guys have come across. Any help would be appreciated. -Jeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 check float height+needle? compression? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!TWISTER! Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 I'm wondering how your pistons looks like. Have you ever rebuilt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 I'm wondering how your pistons looks like. Have you ever rebuilt? I will bet on the TORS system. unplug the TORS system by unplugging the two plugs on the carb tops and the three wire plug to the small black box mounted just above the LH pipe. The bike should run normally at that point. You can leave it unplugged or troubleshoot the electrical in the TORS system to find the problem. Generally a frayed cable or throttle tension is to blame. They also have switches that hang up and cause momentary loss of spark. Unplug and go from there. Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaming Yellow Zonker Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 (edited) back at your CDI box you have 2 plugs. On one there will be a green wire with a yellow tracer. cut it and tape it up. this eliminates the tors from canceling spark. Edited April 6, 2007 by Screaming Yellow Zonker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bore Stroker Posted April 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 (edited) back at your CDI box you have 2 plugs. On one there will be a green wire with a yellow tracer. cut it and tape it up. this eliminates the tors from canceling spark. Yeah, that didn't do it either. Fires up great, it even ran good for a few seconds. Then it started makin' the blapp blapp sound anytime you applied power. Oh and to the float reply, they are sitting perfect and the needle and casing are good too. We're waiting on a compression tester. We have one, but it's for our 360 sprints (and I don't think it'll work?) I dunno. Anyway, thanks for the help guys! Edited April 6, 2007 by Big Bore Stroker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregbowler Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 I would also try un-plugging the parking brake switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 (edited) I would also try un-plugging the parking brake switch. Yep, that one will get you every time but it is a rev limiter and not an ignition kill but maybe it is just not being conveyed correctly. I would sure look at that park brake too. The little lever at the perch must be all the way in or it will set the rev limit closed switch in the handlebar. I really doubt compression is it but hey, I cannot hear the thing either. Just seems electrical to me. You might verify blue spark at the plug. It will look rather weak but if it is blue, that indicates the coil are working. If it's yellow, you have an issue somewhere. We ran into a similar issue with a customer's Raptor and it turned out as the CDI. Keep that in mind. Brandon Edited April 6, 2007 by blowit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaming Yellow Zonker Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 IMO you need to remove all the T.O.R.S. BS on your machine. Unplug the box, carbs, parking brake/clutch, and throttle. this should eliminate all T.O.R.S. functions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bore Stroker Posted April 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 I'm with you Zonker, I'm gonna see about removin' that whole TORS unit setup. I scoffed at it the first time I saw it, and I really don't think it even needs to be on the bike. Just makes it harder to get the carbs out IMO. Thanks guys. I don't think it's compression either. I believe it's electrical as well. I'll check the spark when I get to the shop today. I hope it's not the CDI unit. We just had the same prob with one of our sprints, the damn coil was bad and it took us a few hours to figure it out. I didn't think it would be the same deal on the Banshee, but hell... I'd rather that than it being a piston and havin' to pay to get it honed, etc. I'm not used to these things, but I think I might lean towards Banshees as a full time hobby. I really enjoy working on them over cars. You guys have been a real help, really. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the great help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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